and spaghetti, 53
stuffed, 52
MUTTON (see also LAMB)
cassoulet toulousain, 102
filets de mouton en chevreuil, 80
gigot en chevreuil, 79
à la provençale, 76
kebabs, 77
kokkorétsi, 79
mousaká, 37
ragoût à la catalane, 105
Suliman’s pilaff, 98
tranche de mouton à la catalane, 79
Turkish stuffing for whole roast sheep, 79
Neapolitan spaghetti, 101
Newnham-Davis, Lt-Col., ‘A Venetian Breakfast’, 49
noodles
in chicken broth, 102
sauce of dried cèpes for, 185
Norman’s recipe for veal escalopes, 74
octopus, 67. See also Calamari; Ink-fish
oie. See Goose
okrochka, 26
olives, 149
omelettes
au brocciu (cheese), 36
mussel, 36
savoury (Wyvern), 31
onions
agrodolce, 134
and egg tart, 35
à la monégasque, 155
in pissaladina, 39
orange
and almond cake, 167
cream, 168
and quince salad, 169
sliced and sugared, 169
soufflé, cold, 163
osso buco, 75
paëlla valenciana, 95, 97
pain perdu, 166
palace bread, 163
pan bagnia, 153
partridges
cooked Klephti fashion, 113
with grapes, 112
Italian stuffing for, 112
à la provençale, 112
patafla, 154
patátes, 129
pâté
of chicken livers, 144
of hare, 144
of rabbit, 144
paupiettes
of tongue, 38
of veal Clémentine, 74
peaches
jam, 177
in wine, 170
pears
à l’aigre-doux, 175
baked in wine, 168
in raisiné de Bourgogne, 177
peas
dried, purée, with boudin, 43
with eel, 62
with mackerel, 62
purée of fresh peas with fillet of pork, 85
peas, chick. See Chick peas
peppers. See Pimentos
pebronata de boeuf, 83
perdreaux. See Partridges
petits pois. See Peas
pictí, 147
pigeons à la romanaise, 113
pilaff, Suliman’s, 98
pimentos
with calf’s liver, 38
with chicken, 110
with cold meat, 148
with pig’s liver, 147
in ratatouille, 131
salad, 155
sauté, 137
soup, iced, 27
stuffed with quails, 114
stuffed with rice, 136
piselli. See Peas
pissaladina, pissaladière, 39
pistou (soup), 17
pizza, 39
plakí, fish, 61
plover and mushrooms, 114
plums à l’aigre-doux, 175
poireaux. See Leeks
poires. See Pears
pois chiches. See Peas, chick
poivrade sauce, 80
polenta, 100
di castagne, with kid, 87
polio. See Chicken
pomegranates, 161
pommes de terre. See Potatoes
brawn (picti), 147
cassoulet, 102
chanfaïna of pig’s liver, 147
chops, marinated and grilled, 85
filet frais truffé froid, 147
aux pois nouveaux, 85
en sanglier, 85
rôti à la purée de pommes, 84
terrine de campagne, 144
potatoes
Anna, 127
kephtédes, 127
à la manière d’Apt, 128
en matelote, 128
purée with roast pork, 84
potatoes, sweet (patátes), 129
prawns
in paëlla, 95
in risotto, 94
in soup, 21, 23
Dublin Bay fried, 50
in ragoût, 54
in soup, 20
preserved mixed fruit, 177
preserves. See Jams and preserves
provençale sauce with crayfish, 53
prunes
fritters, 164
glacé, stuffed, 176
pumpkin, in Basque soup, 17
purée Léontine, 18
quails in pimentos, 114
quince
compote, 171
and orange salad, 169
paste, 176
preserve, 177
RABBIT
au coulis de lentilles, 124
in melokhia (soup), 23
pâté, 144
ragoût
de mouton à la catalane, 105
of shell fish, 54
raisiné de Bourgogne, with pears, 177
raïto, 63
ratatouille, 131
aux oeufs, 35
Reboul, La Cuisinière Provençale, on bouillabaisse, 59
red mullet. See Mullet, red
rice to boil, 99
a la catalana, 97
with Circassian chicken, 110
Genoese rice, 98
paella valenciana, 95, 97
risotto with mushrooms, 93
with shell fish, 94
salad, 143
soup with risotto, 19
stuffed pimentos, 136
stuffed tomatoes, 134
Suliman’s pilaff, 98
in vine leaves, 150
risotto
with mushrooms, 93
with shell fish, 94
in soup, 19
rissoles, meat (youvarlakia), with avgolémono sauce, 186
rognons braisés au porto, 38
Romesco, lobster, 53
rôti de porc à la purée de pommes, 84
saddle of boar, 88
SALADS
aubergine, 151
cucumber, pickled, 156
fruit, 162
haricot beans, 155
niçoise, 153
pickled cucumber, 156
pimento (sweet pepper), 155
Provençal, 155
rice, 143
spinach, 155
sweet pepper, 155
salt cod
brandade, 63
in raïto, 63
sandwich, Provençal, 153
sardines
fritters, 62
marinés à la niçoise, 152
SAUCES
aïllade, 188
aïoli, 188
avgolémono, 186
béarnaise, 182
béchamel, 182
bolognese, for polenta or spaghetti, 101, 184
cappon magro, 190
catalane, 185
cèpes, dried, sauce for spaghetti, 185
chasseur, 86
chevreuil, 186
Choron, 183
dried cèpe sauce for spaghetti, 185
espagnole, 181
Foyot, 183
garlic butter for snails, 46
hollandaise, 183
mayonnaise, 187
Mohammed’s sauce for fish, 188
mousseline, 184
pebronata, 190
piquante, 186
poivrade, 80
provençale, 53
raïto, 63
Romesco, 53
rouille, for fish, 189
sea urchin, 189
skordaliá, 188
Syrian, for fish, 190
tahina, 152, 153
tapénade, of
capers, 189
tartare, 187
tomato, 184
fresh, 101
paste, 185
with peppers, 190
Turkish salad dressing, 187
vinaigrette, 187
walnut
for chicken, 142
for trout, 62
yoghourt, with pilaff, 98
sausage, boudin, 43
scaloppine of calf’s liver with pimentos, 38
scallops coquilles St Jacques à la crème, 50
fried à la provençale, 51
scampi
fried, 50
in ragoût of shell fish, 54
in shell-fish soup, 23
sea urchins, sauce of, 189
shell fish. See Fish, shell
sherkasiya, 110
shops: for ingredients, 42, 64, 68, 77, 95, 97, 123, 151, 152;
for tools, 46
Siphniac honey pie, 164
Sitwell, Osbert, ‘Luncheon at Montegufon’, 141
skordaliá, 188
Smollet, Tobias, ‘The Fish of th Côte Niçoise’, 56
snails
Alin Laubreaux on cooking, 44
garlic butter for, 46
snipe and mushrooms, 114
soufflé
apricot, 163
orange, cold, 163
SOUPS
avgolémono, 17
Basque, 17
catalane, 18
cucumber, hot, 19
fish, 20, 21, 22
haricot bean, 19
Jerusalem artichoke, 19
Mediterranean fish soup, 21
melokhia, 23
mussel, 22
pistou, 17
purée Léontine, 18
with risotto, 19
tomato and shell-fish, 23
white fish, 22
zuppa di pesce, 20
SOUPS, ICED
beetroot, 26
chicken and tomato consomme, 25
cucumber jelly, 24
gaspacho, 24
okrochka, 26
pimento, 27
spaghetti, 100
with mussels, 53
Neapolitain, 101
sauce
bolognese, 184
dried cèpes, 185
sicilienne, 101
tomato paste for, 185
spanakopittá, 42
spinach
in bouillabaisse, 41
in burek, 41
salad, 155
in spanakopittá, 42
squid, 68
Stein, Gertrude, on eggs, 34
stiphádo, 81
stuffing
for partridges, 112
for roast chicken, 111
for whole roast sheep, 79
Suliman’s pilaff, 98
suppions, 68
sweet peppers, salad of, 155. See also Pimento
sweet potatoes, 129
sweets, note on Mediterranean, 160
ta’amia, 137
tahina, 152, 153
tapénade, 189
taramá, 151
tarte
à l’oignon et aux oeufs, 35
aux tomates, 37
temperatures, equivalent gas and electric, 14
terrine de campagne, 144
tian, 153
tiri, tiganisméno, 43
tirópittá, 42
tomatoes
and chicken consommé, iced, 25
fromagées, 135
paste, for sauce, 185
to preserve, 178
provençales, 134
sauce, 184
and shell-fish soup, 23
stuffed à la grecque, 134
tart, 37
tongue, beef, en paupiettes, 38
torrijas, 165
tranche de mouton à la catalane, 79
trout with walnuts, 62
tunny fish, fresh, 64
urchins, sea, sauce of, 189
VEAL
bocconcini, 74
côtes de veau Foyot, 75
Norman’s recipe, 74
osso buco, 75
paupiettes de veau Clémentine, 74
terrine de campagne, 144
VEGETABLES
aïgroissade toulonnaise, 131
aubergine à l’arménienne, 130
dolmas, 130
fritters, 129, 130
in a marinade, 151
in ratatouille, 131
broad beans and artichokes, 133
and bacon, 133
carrots au blanc, 129
with calf’s liver, 106
cauliflower al stracinati, 133
celeriac farci, 133
cèpes à la bordelaise, 136
dried: note on, 123;
in sauce for spaghetti, 185
à l’italienne, 136
chick peas, 132
with mutton, 105
with tahina, 152
courgettes fritters, 129
with tomatoes, 129
fasoūlia (haricot beans), 137
fennel, 132
haricot beans. See Fasoūlia above; Ta’amia opposite
leeks à la grecque, 155
à la provençale, 131
lentils with rabbit, 124
mushrooms à l’arménienne, 135
à la provençale, 135
and snipe, 114
onions agrodolce, 134
à la monégasque, 155
peas with eel, 62
with mackerel, 62
purée of fresh peas with pork, 85
pimentos with calf’s liver, 38
with chicken, 110
with cold meat, 148
with pig’s liver, 147
in ratatouille, 131
sauté, 137
stuffed with quails, 114
stuffed with rice, 136
potatoes Anna, 127
kephtédes, 127
à la manière d’Apt, 128
en matelote, 128
purée, with roast pork, 84
ratatouille, 131
spinach en bouillabaisse, 41
sweet potatoes, 129
ta’amia (haricot beans), 137
tomatoes fromagées, 135
provençales, 134
stuffed à la grecque, 134
vine leaves
with cèpes, 136
stuffed, 150
walnuts
with chicken, 142
with cold trout, 62
and honey cream, 171
in ralto, 63
stuffed, in syrup, 178
water melon stuffed with blackberries 161