in bourride, 64
Aleppo chicken, 109
almond and orange cake, 167
ambelopoùlia, 150
anchovies
in anchoïade, 40
in anchoïade Croze, 41
anguilla in tiella al piselli, 62
apricots
apricotina, 162
soufflé, 163
arní souvlákia, 77
arroz a la catalana, 97
artichokes and broad beans, 133
artichokes, Jerusalem, soup, 19
aspic jelly, 141
aubergines
à l’arménienne, 130
beignets, 129, 130
dolmas, 130
in fritters, 129, 130
in marinade, 151
in mousaká, 37
in ratatouille, 131
salad of, 151
avgolémono sauce, 186
soup, 17
bananas, baked, 162
basil, whole, dried, 64
Basque soup, 17
batter, frying, 50
beans
broad with artichokes, 133
with bacon, 133
brown, Egyptian (fool), 105
haricot
aïgroissade toulonnaise, 131
cassoulet toulousain, 102
fasoūlia, 137
rissoles of beans (ta’amia), 137
salad, 155
soup, 19
ta’amia, 137
becfigues. See Figpeckers
Beckford, William: ‘Alcobaca’, 109;
‘Portuguese Supper Party’, 93
BEEF
culotte de boeuf au four, 83
en daube à la niçoise, 82
filet de boeuf
à l’amiral, 83
flambé à l’avignonnaise, 83
à l’italienne, 81
langue de boeuf en paupiettes, 38
à la mode à la provençale, 146
pebronata de boeuf (Corsican ragoût), 83
stiphádo (Greek ragoût), 81
beetroots
to bake, 26
soup, iced, 26
beignets
aubergines, 129
courgettes, 129
pruneaux, 164
sardines, 62
Bennett, Arnold, ‘A Greek Restaurant’, 73
blackberries in water melon, 161
boar, saddle of, Norman Douglas’s recipe, 88
bocconcini, 74
boeuf. See Beef
boudin purée de pois, 43
bouillabaisse, 59
of spinach, 41
bourride, 64
brandade de morue, 63
brawn, Greek, 147
brocciu (cheese), omelette au, 36
Brodrick, Alan Houghton, ‘Farmhouse Dinner’, 116
burek, 41
butter, garlic, for snails, 46
Byron, Robert, ‘Greek Feast’, 67
cailles. See Quails
cake, orange and almond, 167
calamári, grilled, 68
calf’s liver with pimentos, 38
carrots
au blanc, 129
with liver, 102
cassoulet toulousain, 102
Catalan soup, 18
cauliflower al stracinati, 133
cavalfiore. See Cauliflower
celeriac, stuffed, 133
celeri-rave. See Celeriac
cenci, 166
cèpes
à la bordelaise, 136
dried
in sauce for spaghetti, 185
note on, 123
à l’italienne, 136
champignons. See Mushrooms
chanfaīna of pig’s liver, 147
chatchouka, 36
cheese
in burek, 41
cream, with raisins, 165
Greek, fried, 43
mozzarella, in pizza, 39
omelette au brocciu, 36
in spanakopittá, 42
in tiropittá, 42
chick peas, 132
with mutton, 105
with tahina, 152
with Turkish salad dressing, 187
chicken
Aleppo chicken, 109
antiboise, 110
avgolémono soup, 17
broth with noodles, 102
cold, Véronique, 142
consommé, with tomato, iced, 25
kotópittá, 42
lemon, 143
liver pâté, 144
aux noix, 142
in padella con peperoni, 110
sherkasiya (Circassian chicken), 110
stuffing for roast chicken, 111
Circassian chicken, 110
civet
of inkfish, 68
de lièvre, 122
chocolate cream mousse, 167
cod
roe, smoked (taramá), 151
salt, 63
coffee mousse, 167
cold food and salads, 139–56
cold soups. See Soups, iced
coquilles St Jacques. See Scallops
côtes de veau Foyot, 75
courgettes
fritters, 129
with tomatoes, 129
crayfish
in ragoût of shell fish, 54
with sauce provençale, 53
crème à l’orange, 168
cucumber
pickled, salad, 156
soup hot, 19
iced, jelly, 24
culotte de boeuf au four, 83
cuttlefish, 68
dates, glacé, stuffed, 176
dolmádes, 150
Douglas, Norman: ‘The Good Cook’, 181;
‘The Ideal Cuisine’, 76;
‘Saddle of Boar’, 88
duck
cold stuffed, 143
to roast, 111
Durrell, Lawrence: ‘Corfu: Making the Preserves’, 175;
on black olives, 149
eel
with green peas, 62
with raïto, 63
eggplant. See Aubergine
EGGS
chatchouka, 36
egg and onion tart, 35
etiquette of serving eggs, Gertrude Stein on, 34
en matelote, 35
omelettes. See Omelettes
al plato a la barcino, 36
ratatouille aux oeufs, 35
with spinach en bouillabaisse, 42
Egyptian brown beans, 104
épinards. See Spinach
esh es seraya, 163
fasoūlia, 137
fennel, 132
with red mullet, 63
fèves. See Beans, broad
figpeckers
en brochettes, 114
and mushrooms, 114
preserved (ambelopoùlia), 150
figs
baked, 165
dried, pudding, 165
fresh, with orange juice, 170
fila pastry, 41, 42
filet de boeuf
à l’amiral, 83
flambé à l’avignonnaise, 83
filet de mouton en chevreuil, 80
filet de porc
aux pois nouveaux, 85
en sanglier, 85
FISH, SEA AND FRESHWATER
anguilla (eel) in tiella al piselli, 62
beignets de sardines, 62
bouillabaisse, 59
bourride, 64
brandade de morue, 63
calamári, grilled, 68
eel in tiella al piselli, 62
fish plakí, 61
grillade au fenouil, 63
inkfish, civet of, 68
mullet, grey, au vin blanc, 61
mullet, red cold, niçoise, 61
with fennel, 63
grilled, 61
octopus, 67
raïto, 63
sardines beignets, 62
marinés à la niçoise, 152
soup, 20, 21, 22
taramá, 151
trout, with sauce aux noix, 62
tunny fish, fresh, 64
FISH, SHELL
coquilles St Jacques. See Scallops below
crayfish with sauce provençale, 53
lobster
roast, 54
Romesco, 53
moules. See Mussels below
mussels
au citron, 52
in fish soup, 20, 21, 23
marinière, 51, 52
omelette, 36
in risotto, 94
soup, 22
and spaghetti, 53
stuffed, 52
paëlla valenciana, 95, 97
ragoût of shell fish, 54
risotto, 94
scallops
coquilles St Jacques à la crème, 50
fried à la provençale, 51
scampi
fried, 50
in ragoût of shell fish, 54
in shell-fish soup, 23
and tomato soup, 23
foie de veau aux carottes, 102
fool (Egyptian brown beans), 105
frogs’ legs provençale, 42
fruit, preserved, 177
fruit salad, 162
frying batter, 50
garlic
in bourride, 64
butter for snails, 46
with gigot à la provençale, 76
in lièvre à la royale, 118
with partridges, 112
sauces
aïllade, 188
aïoli, 188
catalane, 185
rouille, 189
skordaliá, 188
gaspacho, 24
gateau de figues sèches, 165
Gautier, Théophile, on gaspacho, 24
Genoese rice, 98
gigot
de mouton en chevreuil, 79
à la provençale, 76
goose
en daube, 146
rôtie à la bordelaise, 111
grapes
muscat, and melon, 170
with partridge, 112
raisiné de Bourgogne, 177
grenouilles provençales, 42
grey mullet. See Mullet, grey
ham
bastourma, note on, 149
louza, note on, 149
persillé de Bourgogne, 145
prosciutto, note on, 149
HARE
in agrodolce, 123
civet de lièvre, 122
pâté, 144
à la royale, 118
haricot beans. See Beans
Heyraud, H., on tian, 154
honey
palace bread (esh es seraya), 163
Siphniac honey pie, 164
and walnut cream, 171
HORS D’OEUVRE
ambelopoùlia, 150
aubergines
in a marinade, 151
salad, 151
black olives, 149
cucumber, pickled, salad, 156
dolmádes, 150
green olives, 149
haricot beans, salad, 155
hummus bi tahina, 152
leeks à la grecque, 155
note on, 148
olives, 149
onions à la monégasque, 155
pan bagn, 153
pickled cucumber salad, 156
pimento salad, 155
Provençal salad, 155
sardines marinés à la niçoise, 152
spinach, salad, 155
sweet peppers, salad, 155
tahina salad, 153
taramá, 151
tian, 153
hummus bi tahina, 152
iced soups. See Soups, iced
inkfish, civet of, 68
James, Henry, ‘Luncheon at Bourg’, 31
JAMS AND PRESERVES
dates, glacé, stuffed, 176
grapes in raisiné de Bourgogne, 177
melon à l’aigre-doux, 176
peach jam, 177
pears à l’aigre-doux, 175
with raisiné de Bourgogne, 177
plums à l’aigre-doux, 175
preserved mixed fruit, 177
quinces paste, Spanish, 176
preserve, 177
raisiné de Bourgogne with pears, 177
tomatoes, fresh, 178
walnuts, stuffed, in syrup, 187
jambon. See Ham
Jerusalem artichoke soup, 19
kasséri, 43
kebabs, 77
Kenney-Herbert, A., on omelettes, 31
KID
note on, 87
en ragoût, 87
stuffed shoulder, 87
kidneys, veal, braised with port, 38
Klephti cooking, 113
kokkorétsi, 79
kottópittá, 42
kwass, 26
LAMB (see also MUTTON)
arní souvlákia, 77
kebabs, 77
lamb on the bone, 78
langue de boeuf en paupiettes, 38
lapin. See Rabbit
Laubreaux, A., on snails, 44
Lawrence, D. H., ‘The Vegetable Market at Palermo’, 127
leeks
à la grecque, 155
à la provençale, 131
purée Léontine, 18
lentils with rabbit, 124
Léontine, purée, 18
lepre. See Hare
lièvre. See Hare
liver
calf’s with carrots, 102
with pimentos, 38
chanfaϊna of pig’s liver, 147
Pâté of chicken livers, 144
lobster
roast, 54
Romesco, 53
Mackenzie, Compton, ‘Ices in Athens’ 159
mackerel aux petits pois, 62
macquereaux. See Mackerel
marrow, baby. See Courgettes
matelote, oeufs en, 35
Mediterranean fish soup, 21
melokhia soup, 23
melon
à l’aigre-doux, 176
and muscat grapes, 170
melon, water, stuffed with blackberries, 161
mézés, 148
morue. See Salt cod
moules. See Mussels
mousaká, 37
mousse
chocolate cream, 167
coffee, 167
mozzarella cheese, in pizza, 39
mullet, grey, au vin blanc, 61
mullet, red
cold, niçoise, 61
with fennel, 63
grilled, 61
muscat grapes and melon, 170
mushrooms (see also Cèpes)
à l’arménienne, 135
à la provençale, 135
risotto, 93
and snipe, 114
mussels
au citron, 52
in fish soup, 20, 21, 23
marinière, 51, 52
omelette, 36
in ragoût of shell fish, 54
in risotto, 94
soup, 22