woodcock and mushrooms, 114
yoghourt
with pilaff, 98
as a sweet, 166
youvarlákia (meat rissoles), with avgolémono sauce, 186
zuppa di pesce, 20
*An illustrated and revised edition was published by Dorling Kindersley in 1988.
* In this case use half the quantity.
* Hâchoir in French, mezzaluna in Italian. These instruments can now be bought at a few good kitchen stores (William Page, Shaftesbury Avenue, Staines of Victoria Street, Cadec, 27 Greek Street, Soho, etc.). Once you have used one, it is unthinkable to be without it.
* Un Voyage en Espagne, translated by Catherine Alison Phillips, and published by Alfred A. Knopf, under the title of A Romantic in Spain.
* A Russian fermented liquor.
* Fifty Luncheons, by A. Kenney-Herbert.
* The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas, by Gertrude Stein.
* The quantities given fill a cake tin 6½ inches square and 2 inches deep.
* Austin de Croze.
* The Happy Glutton, by Alin Laubreaux, translated by Naomi Walford.
* In England cockles could be used instead.
* These are found in great plenty at Ancona and other parts of the Adriatic, where they go by the name of Bollani, as we are informed by Keysler.
† Since I wrote the above letter, I have eaten several times of this fish, which is as white as the finest veal, and extremely delicate. The emperor associates with the tunny fish and is always taken in their company.
* A correspondent writing from southern Spain tells me that a more satisfactory way of skinning an octopus is to coat your hand with coarse salt, grab each tentacle hard, and pull. The skin peels off.
* In Greece wild marjoram is used; it is called rígani and has a much stronger perfume than our marjoram. Origanum means in Greek ‘the joy of the mountains’. Greek rígani, which gives the characteristic aroma and flavour to Greek kebabs, can be bought from the Hellenic Provision Stores, 25 Charlotte Street, London W1.
* One often sees instructions in cookery books to marinate the meat in wine or vinegar. This is never done in Greece, and would completely ruin the natural beauty of the dish if it were.
* The cloves of garlic can be left unpeeled – the skin will come off when they are cooked.
* Birds and Beasts of the Greek Anthology, by Norman Douglas.
* Chorizos. These can be bought at Gomez Ortega, 74 Old Compton Street, WI.
* Since this was written the production of spaghetti in England has made great progress, and there is now good English-manufactured spaghetti on the market.
* Cambacérés is one of the signposts, like parmentier (potatoes) or florentine (spinach). When one reads upon a menu the name of Napoleon’s arch-chancellor then look out for something stuffed with foie gras.
* These times are given for a dinner to be served at seven o’clock.
* In spite of the enormous quantity of garlic and shallots which enter into the composition of lièvre à la royale, the remarkable fact is that to a certain extent the two ingredients cancel each other out, so that the uninitiated would hardly suspect their presence.
* Cèpes are not usually obtainable in England, although they do grow in some parts of the country. I have been able to buy them occasionally at Roche’s or Parmigiani’s, both in Old Compton Street. Dried cèpes are also obtainable in Soho and most delicatessen shops and are worth trying. Soak them for a few minutes and then simmer them in oil until they are tender. They have plenty of flavour. I do not recommend the tinned variety, which are woolly and have no taste whatever. For the civet de lièvre cèpes can naturally be replaced with mushrooms, or with chestnuts.
* See Stuffed Pimentos (p. 136) for the cleaning of pimentos for cooking.
* See p. 148.
* The Hellenic Provision Stores, 25 Charlotte Street, John and Pascalis, 35 Grafton Way, Tottenham Court Road, The Little Pulteney Stores, Brewer Street, WI.
† Or use tinned chick peas recooked until soft.
* In Greece these conserves are always offered to a stranger arriving at the house, served on a tray with a glass of water and a small cup of sweet Turkish coffee, a symbol of hospitality which must on no account be refused.
† Turkish Delight.
* Page 50.
* A ‘black’ wine made in Corfu.
* Plums, peaches, pears, figs, cherries, melon, apricots, etc. To serve with ham, cold turkey, or chicken.
* See note on dried cèpes, p. 123.
Table of Contents
Cover
About the Author
Title Page
Copyright Page
Dedication
Contents
Introduction
Acknowledgements
Preface to the Penguin Edition
Introduction to the 1988 Edition
Table of Equivalent Gas and Electric Oven Temperatures
Table of Equivalent American Measurements
A Book of Mediterranean Food
Soups
Eggs and Luncheon Dishes
Snails
Fish
Shell Fish
Sea and Freshwater Fish
Octopus and Cuttlefish
Meat
Veal
Beef
Pork
Kid
Boar
Substantial Dishes
Poultry and Game
Hare and Rabbit
Vegetables
Cold Food and Salads
Note on Hors d’Œuvre
A Few Sweets
Jams and Preserves
Sauces
Index
Footnotes
Introduction to the 1988 Edition
Page 13
Soups
Page 20
Page 23
Page 25
Page 26
Eggs and Luncheon Dishes
Page 33
Page 35
Page 37
Page 41
Page 45
Fish
Page 53
Page 57
Meat
Page 77
Page 78
Page 79
Page 89
Substantial Dishes
Page 97
Page 100
Poultry and Game
Page 116
Page 119
Page 120
Page 123
Vegetables
Page 131
Page 137
Cold Food and Salads
Page 149
Page 152
A Few Sweets
Page 160
Page 164
Jams and Preserves
Page 175
Page 177
Sauces
Page 185