11 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
12 Interview with Mira Chai Hyde, 16 May 2014
13 Ibid.
14 Email from Stephen Todd to AW, 8 June 2013
15 ‘The Importance of Being English’, Stephen Todd, Blueprint, March 1997
16 ‘Rock Steady’, John Harlow and Olga Craig, Sunday Times, 9 February 1997
17 ‘Cutting Up Rough’, The Works, BBC, 1997
18 ‘Drama McQueen’, Rob Tannenbaum, Details, June 1997
19 Ibid.
20 ‘England’s Glory’, Melanie Rickey, Independent, 28 February 1997
21 ‘Cutting Up Rough’, BBC
22 ‘McQueen’s Vision of Urban Chaos’, Grace Bradberry, The Times, 28 February 1997
23 ‘Cutting Up Rough’, BBC
24 Ibid.
25 ‘Alexander: The Great is Back in Britain’, Mimi Spencer, Evening Standard, 28 February 1997
26 ‘McQueen’s Vision of Urban Chaos’, Grace Bradberry, op. cit.
27 ‘London Has More Buzz Than Swing’, Tamsin Blanchard, Independent, 5 March 1997
28 ‘The Inspiring Truth About the Self-Styled Yob of Fashion’, Richard Pendlebury, Daily Mail, 30 January 1997
29 Interview with Janet McQueen, 12 September 2014
30 ‘Chanel and Givenchy Traditions’, Amy M. Spindler, New York Times, 14 March 1997
31 ‘Do You Think It’s Me’, Colin McDowell, Sunday Times, 23 March 1997
32 ‘Do You Think It’s Me’, Colin McDowell, op. cit.
33 ‘Oh, Malone!’, Carole Malone, Sunday Mirror, 16 March 1997
34 ‘Conflicting Conviction’, Samantha Murray Greenway, Dazed & Confused, September 1994
35 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
36 Love Looks Not with the Eyes, p. 16
37 ‘Macabre McQueen’, Katherine Betts, American Vogue, October 1997
38 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
39 Interview with Nicholas Townsend/Trixie, 24 May 2013
40 Interview with Lee Copperwheat, 4 July 2014
41 ‘London Swings! Again!’, David Kamp, op. cit.
42 Interview with Simon Costin, 15 April 2013
43 McQueen and I, More4
44 Interview with Alice Smith, 7 May 2013
45 ‘Macabre McQueen’, Katherine Betts, op. cit.
46 ‘McQueen Chills Blood of the Fashion World’, John Harlow, Sunday Times, 6 July 1997
47 ‘Macabre McQueen’, Katherine Betts, op. cit.
48 ‘Cutting Up Rough’, BBC
49 ‘Go On My Son’, Nick Compton, Sunday Times, 12 October 1997
50 Interview with Simon Costin, 15 April 2013
51 ‘The Kids Are All Right’, Chip Brown, New York magazine, 25 August 1997
52 ‘Macabre McQueen’, Katherine Betts, op. cit.
53 ‘Fur and Feathers Fly for McQueen Triumph’, Heath Brown, The Times, 8 July 1997
54 ‘The Kids Are All Right’, Chip Brown, op. cit.
55 ‘All Hail McQueen’, Lorna V, Time Out, 24 September–1 October 1997
56 Interview with Jacqui McQueen, 29 August 2013
57 Savage Beauty, Metropolitan Museum, p. 73
58 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
59 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
60 Email from Murray Arthur, 25 July 2014
61 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
62 Postcard from Lee McQueen to Murray Arthur, undated, courtesy of Murray Arthur
63 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
Chapter Nine
1 ‘McQueen Takes London by Storm’, Melanie Rickey, Independent, 29 September 1997
2 ‘Splash Hit’, Women’s Wear Daily, 30 September 1997
3 ‘McQueen Reigns as the King’, Mimi Spencer, Evening Standard, 29 September 1997
4 Love Looks Not with the Eyes, p. 15
5 Interview with Simon Costin, 15 April 2013
6 ‘Splash Hit’, Women’s Wear Daily, op. cit.
7 ‘The King of Yob Couture’, Sunday Telegraph, 28 September 1997
8 ‘It’s a Stitch-Up’, A. A. Gill, Sunday Times, 28 September 1997
9 ‘Warrior Björk’, Greg Kot, Chicago Tribune, 15 May 1998
10 ‘Lee McQueen by Björk’, GQ.com, 28 September 2010
11 Alexander McQueen interviewed by Björk, Index Magazine, 2003
12 ‘Cut Dead’, Jasper Gerard, The Times, 24 October 1997
13 ‘Hard to See the Frills for the Froth’, Brenda Polan, Financial Times, 18 October 1997
14 ‘Catwalk Culprits’, Sir Hardy Amies, The Spectator, 1 November 1997
15 ‘Vain Glorious’, Colin McDowell, Sunday Times, 26 October 1997
16 ‘Shocks Fade as McQueen Goes Fishing for Applause’, Grace Bradberry, The Times, 19 January 1998
17 ‘His Majesty McQueen is a King-Size Yawn’, Jane Moore, Sun, 5 March 1998
18 Interview with Simon Costin, 15 April 2013
19 Interview with Miguel Adrover, 13 August 2013
20 Interview with Miguel Adrover, 4 August 2014
21 ‘To Hell and Back’, Emma Moore, Sunday Times, 15 March 1998
22 ‘Annabelle Neilson Remembers Alexander McQueen’, Harper’s Bazaar, April 2011
23 ‘The Runway Bride’, Meenal Mistry, W, June 2006
24 ‘Isabella Blow on Alexander McQueen’, Time Out, Maggie Davis, 13 September 2005
25 Interview with John Maybury, 15 September 2014
26 Interview with Daphne Guinness, 10 December 2013
27 Interview with BillyBoy*, 8 August 2013
28 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
29 ‘Alexander McQueen on Joan’, The Face, April 1998
30 ‘The Killer Queen’, The Face, April 1998
31 ‘Fashion: The Revamp by “Yoof” Pays Off’, Brenda Polan, Financial Times, 14 March 1998
32 ‘The Oscars: And the Best-Dressed Actress Award Goes to . . .’, Melanie Rickey, Independent, 25 March 1998
33 ‘The Most Exclusive Fashion Magazine in the World’, Grace Bradberry, The Times, 8 April 1998
34 Interview with Richard Brett, 16 July 2013
35 ‘A Diet of Fashion Without Victims’, Alan Hamilton, The Times, 27 May 1998
36 ‘McQueen and Country’, Christa D’Souza, Observer Magazine, 4 March 2001
37 Interview with John McKitterick, 1 April 2014
38 Interview with Richard Brett, 16 July 2013
39 ‘Fashion that Goes to the Head’, Susannah Frankel, Guardian, 20 July 1998
40 ‘Fantasy League’, Colin McDowell, Sunday Times, 2 August 1998
41 ‘Haute Couture: The Sublime to the Ridiculous’, Tamsin Blanchard, Independent, 22 July 1998
42 ‘Inside Paris’, Kirsty Lang, Sunday Times, 26 July 1998
43 ‘Mr Letterhead: McQueen Shows a Corporate Side’, Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune, 18 September 2001
44 Interview with Tony McQueen, 20 October 2013
45 Interview with Richard Brett, 16 July 2013
46 ‘Pandora’, Independent, 22 September 1998
47 Interview with BillyBoy*, 8 August 2013
48 Interview with Miguel Adrover, 13 August 2013
49 Interview with Richard Brett, 16 July 2013
50 ‘Sickest Fashion Show of All Time’, Catherine Westwood, Sun, 30 September 1998
51 Email from Andrew Groves to AW, 27 July 2014
52 ‘Alexander McQueen Meets Helen Mirren’, Dazed & Confused, September 1998
53 Editor’s Letter, Jefferson Hack, Dazed & Confused, September 1998
54 ‘Drama McQueen’, Rob Tannenbaum, Details, June 1997
55 ‘Access-Able’, Alexander McQueen, Dazed & Confused, September 1998
56 ‘“Barbie Girl” Steps out in Style’, Melanie Rickey, Independent, 28 September 1998
57 ‘In London, Indulging in a Bit of Creativity’, Anne-Marie Schiro, New York Times, 29 S
eptember 1998
58 ‘Oxygen’, Independent on Sunday, 29 November 1998
59 Interview with Richard Brett, 16 July 2013
60 ‘Designer Wins Legal Aid for Fashion Fight’, Mark Henderson, The Times, 5 August 1997
61 Arts Diary, Kathleen Wyatt, The Times, 15 May 2000
62 Email from Trevor Merrell to AW, 21 January 2014
63 ‘College Drops Sofa Exhibit after McQueen Legal Threat’, Katie Nicholl, Daily Telegraph, 10 June 2000
Chapter Ten
1 Email from Richard Brett to AW, 2 August 2014
2 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
3 Email from Richard Brett to AW, 2 August 2014
4 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
5 Interview with Janet Street-Porter, 16 April 2013
6 ‘McQueen’s Back, and He’s Dynamite’, Lisa Armstrong, The Times, 31 January 2000
7 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
8 ‘McQueen True to his Promise with Best Yet’, Lisa Armstrong, The Times, 24 February 1999
9 ‘Fashion: Art of Poise’, Susannah Frankel, Independent, 9 June 1999
10 Interview with Ferhan Azman, 17 April 2013
11 ‘Shop of the New’, Marcus Field, Independent on Sunday, 5 December 1999
12 Interview with Ferhan Azman, 17 April 2013
13 Interview with Janet Street-Porter, 16 April 2013
14 ‘Backstage with the McQueen of New York’, Simon Mills, Evening Standard, 20 September 1999
15 ‘McQueen’s Audacity, Beene’s Impishness’, Cathy Horyn, New York Times, 18 September 1999
16 ‘Hurricane McQueen Shakes up New York’, Mimi Spencer, Evening Standard, 17 September 1999
17 ‘Cherie Dares to Blair for Designer Set’, Avril Groom, Daily Record, 21 September 1999
18 ‘McQueen and Country’, Observer Magazine, 4 March 2001
19 ‘McQueen Comes to the Aid of the Fashion Party’, Lisa Armstrong, The Times, 21 September 1999
20 Interview with Richard Brett, 16 July 2013
21 Interview with Jay Massacret, 22 October 2014
22 Interview with Sebastian Pons, 20 August 2014
23 Interview with Jay Massacret, 22 October 2014
24 ‘McQueen’s Back, and He’s Dynamite’, Lisa Armstrong, op. cit.
25 ‘McQueen Puts on the Style, with a Touch of Refinement and Romance’, Susannah Frankel, Independent, 17 January 2000
26 ‘Who: Tracey Emin, Juergen Teller, What: Alexander McQueen Collection Autumn/Winter 2000, Where: Gainsborough Film Studios, London N1’, Nova magazine, June 2000
27 ‘McQueen’s Inferno’, Mimi Spencer, Evening Standard, 16 February 2000
28 ‘It’s Time to Give these Fashion Freaks the Bum’s Rush’, Joanna Pitman, The Times, 17 February 2000
29 ‘Degradation Dressed Up as Joke’, Joan Smith, Independent on Sunday, February 2000
30 ‘The Designer who Hates Women’, Brenda Polan, Daily Mail, 17 February 2000
31 Interview with Janet McQueen, 16 January 2014
32 Interview with Janet McQueen, 17 September 2013
33 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
34 ‘Lean, Mean McQueen’, Vassi Chamberlain, Tatler, February 2004
35 ‘Precarious Beauty’, Rebecca Mead, New Yorker, 26 September 2011
36 ‘The Heiress’s Old Clothes’, Vanessa Friedman, Financial Times, 19 April 2008
37 ‘Precarious Beauty’, Rebecca Mead, op. cit.
38 ‘Daphne Guinness’s Glove Story’, Sheryl Garratt, Daily Telegraph, 25 June 2011
39 ‘Precarious Beauty’, Rebecca Mead, op. cit.
40 Ibid.
41 Interview with Daphne Guinness, 10 December 2013
42 ‘Water Swell Party’, Rick Fulton, Daily Record, 26 May 2000
43 ‘Moment Noel Knew the Game Was Up’, James Scott, Daily Record, 7 September 2000
44 ‘McQueen and Country’, Christa D’Souza, Observer Magazine, 4 March 2001
45 ‘Battle Deluxe’, Karl Taro Greenfield, Time, 8 May 2000
46 ‘Fashion’s Hard Case’, Richard Heller, Forbes, 16 September 2002
47 ‘McQueen and Country’, Christa D’Souza, op. cit.
48 Interview with Jay Massacret, 22 October 2014
49 Interview with Miguel Adrover, 4 August 2014
50 ‘Alexander McQueen’s Ex-partner Throws a Disturbing Light on the “Hangers-on” who Lionised him, but who Never Truly Knew him’, Laura Collins, Daily Mail, 14 February 2010
51 Interview with Donald Urquhart, 30 October 2013
52 Donald Urquhart, email to AW, 23 October 2013
53 ‘Alexander McQueen’s Ex-partner’, Laura Collins, op. cit.
54 ‘McQueen Branches Out’, Women’s Wear Daily, 27 April 2000
55 ‘McQueen Meets Knight’, i-D, July 2000
56 Interview with Sebastian Pons, 20 August 2014
57 Interview with Miguel Adrover, 13 August 2013
58 ‘Alexander McQueen’s Ex-partner’, Laura Collins, op. cit.
59 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
60 Interview with Chris Bird, 16 September 2013
61 Interview with Janet Street-Porter, 16 April 2013
62 ‘McQueen and Country’, Christa D’Souza, op. cit.
63 Email from Detmar Blow to AW, 17 August 2014
64 ‘Alexander McQueen’s Ex-partner’, Laura Collins, op. cit.
65 Donald Urquhart, email to AW, 23 October 2013
66 Interview with Donald Urquhart, 30 October 2013
67 ‘Kate Moss’, Subjective, SHOWstudio, http://showstudio.com/project/subjective/kate_moss_for_alexander_mcqueen_a_w_06
68 ‘McQueen: The Diary of a Dress’, Susannah Frankel, Independent, 25 October 2000
69 Michelle Olley, Diary Entry, 26 September 2000, http://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/michelle-olley-voss-diary/
70 Ibid.
71 ‘McQueen Meets Knight’, i-D, July 2000
72 ‘Fashion’s Hard Case’, Richard Heller, op. cit.
74 ‘McQueen and Country’, Christa D’Souza, op. cit.
75 Interview with John Banks, 1 July 2014
76 ‘McQueen and Country’, Christa D’Souza, op. cit.
77 ‘Boy Done Good’, Colin McDowell, Richard Woods, Simon Gage, Sunday Times, 10 December 2000
78 Interview with John Banks, 1 July 2014
79 ‘Bagged’, Independent, 5 December 2000
Chapter Eleven
1 ‘Alexander McQueen’s Ex-partner Throws a Disturbing Light on the “Hangers-on” who Lionised Him, but who Never Truly Knew Him’, Laura Collins, Daily Mail, 14 February 2010
2 ‘“I Know it Looks Extreme to Other People. I Don’t Find it Extreme”’, Marcus Field, Art Review, September 2003
3 Interview with Janet McQueen, 12 September 2014
4 Interview with Janet Street-Porter, 16 April 2013
5 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
6 Interview with Tony McQueen, 20 October 2013
7 ‘Killer McQueen’, Harriet Quick, Vogue, October 2002
8 ‘Brit Style’, British Fashion Awards, BBC2, 21 February 2001
9 ‘Designer in Blast at Cherie’, Simon Mowbray, Daily Mirror, 17 February 2001
10 ‘The Paris Shuffle’, Hamish Bowles, American Vogue, April 2001
11 ‘McQueen and Country’, Christa D’Souza, Observer, 4 March 2001
12 ‘Dark Talent who Conjures Fun from the Sinister’, Lisa Armstrong, The Times, 22 February 2001
13 ‘McQueen’s Magic Roundabout Brings Fantasy to London’s Fashionistas’, Susannah Frankel, Independent, 22 February 2001
14 ‘Clever is Better than Beautiful’, Lisa Armstrong, The Times, 31 May 2004
15 Interview with Janet Street-Porter, 16 April 2013
16 ‘A Farewell From McQueen’, International Herald Tribune, 20 March 2001
17 ‘“I Know
it Looks Extreme”’, Marcus Field, op. cit.
18 Interview with Mira Chai Hyde, 16 May 2014
19 Interview with Brooke Baker, 1 September 2014
20 ‘Helmut Newton, Master of the Camera, Dies in Crash’, Oliver Poole, Daily Telegraph, 24 January 2004
21 ‘Face to Face, Helmut Newton in Conversation’, The Barbican, 10 May 2001
22 ‘Helmut Newton: A Perverse Romantic’, Lindsay Baker, Guardian, 5 May 2001
23 Email from Ben Copperwheat to AW, 20 June 2014
24 Interview with Ben Copperwheat, 2 July 2014
25 Email from Ben Copperwheat to AW, 20 June 2014
26 Interview with Donald Urquhart, 30 October 2013
27 Email from Archie Reed to AW, 13 August 2014
28 ‘Show Stoppers’, Susannah Frankel, Independent on Sunday, 29 September 2002
29 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
30 ‘The Boy Is Back in Town’, Maggie Davis, ES Magazine, 4 January 2002
31 ‘Mr Letterhead: McQueen Shows a Corporate Side’, Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune, 18 September 2001
32 Interview with Kerry Youmans, 30 April 2014
33 Last Word, BBC Radio 4, 12 February 2010
34 ‘Radical Fashion’, Tamsin Blanchard, Observer, 7 October 2001
35 ‘Fashion Guru McQueen Has Designs On’, Daily Express, 19 October 2001
36 ‘The Boy Is Back in Town’, Maggie Davis, op. cit.
37 ‘Alexander The Great’, Ariel Levy, New York magazine, 25 August 2002
38 ‘Killer McQueen’, Harriet Quick, Vogue, October 2002
39 Interview with John Maybury, 15 September 2014
40 Interview with Norbert Schoerner, 18 August 2014
41 ‘Paint It Black’, Susannah Frankel, Independent Magazine, 11 August 2001
42 Interview with Norbert Schoerner, 18 August 2014
43 ‘Paint It Black’, Susannah Frankel, op. cit.
44 Interview with Kerry Youmans, 30 April 2014
45 Interview with Eric Rose, 18 July 2013
46 ‘The Boy Is Back in Town’, Maggie Davis, op. cit.
47 Interview with Tony McQueen, 20 October 2013
48 Interview with Kerry Youmans, 30 April 2014
49 Interview with Tony McQueen, 20 October 2013
50 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
51 ‘McQueen Stands and Delivers’, Hilary Alexander, Daily Telegraph, 11 March 2002
52 ‘Paris Style: Age of Elegance’, Jess Cartner-Morley, Guardian, 15 March 2002
53 ‘Front Row v Front Line’, Anthony Loyd, The Times, 12 March 2002