29 Interview with Réva Mivasagar, 31 January 2014
30 Email from Réva Mivasagar to AW, 28 May 2014
31 Interview with Réva Mivasagar, 31 January 2014
32 Ibid.
33 Interview with Simon Ungless, 24 January 2014
34 Ibid.
35 The One Hundred and Twenty Days of Sodom, Marquis de Sade (Arrow Books, London, 1990), p. 184
36 ‘Bowie & McQueen’, Dazed & Confused, November 1996
37 Interview with Chris Bird, 4 September 2013
38 Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness, Caroline Evans (Yale University Press, New Haven and London, 2009), pp. 152–3
39 Interviews with Chris Bird, 4 September, 16 September 2013
40 Interview with Alice Smith, 7 May 2013
41 Interview with Anna Harvey, 23 April 2014
42 Interview with Chris Bird, 16 September 2013
43 ‘Alexander McQueen’, Katie Webb, Infotainment, Sky Magazine, March 1993
44 ‘All Hail McQueen’, Lorna V, Time Out, 24 September–1 October 1997
45 ‘The Real McQueen’, Lucinda Alford, Observer, 21 March 1993
46 ‘Fashion Stars Who Won’t Wear Britain’, Roger Tredre, Independent on Sunday, 28 February 1993
47 Interview with Lee Copperwheat, 4 July 2014
48 ‘Catwalk Capital’, Sarah Mower, Guardian, 30 August 2009
49 ‘Shaping Up’, Nilgin Yusuf, Sunday Times, 7 March 1993
50 ‘The Real McQueen’, Lucinda Alford, op. cit.
51 Interview with Janet McQueen, 17 September 2013
52 ‘Something to Show for Themselves’, Iain R. Webb, The Times, 8 March 1993
53 Email from Simon Ungless to AW, 18 June 2014
54 Interview with Alice Smith, 7 May 2013
55 Interview with Tania Wade, 21 July 2014
56 Interview with Michelle Wade, 6 November 2013
Chapter Five
1 ‘McQueen’s Theatre of Cruelty’, Marion Hume, Independent, 21 October 1993
2 Draper’s Record, original review of show, reprinted in Draper’s Record, 20 February 2010
3 ‘McQueen’s Theatre of Cruelty’, Marion Hume, op. cit.
4 ‘Great British Fashion’, Edward Enninful, i-D, October 1993
5 ‘Great British Fashion’, Avril Mair, i-D, October 1993
6 Interviews with Fleet Bigwood, 23 June, 25 June 2014
7 Interview with Marin Hopper, 7 August 2014
8 Interview with Bobby Hillson, 11 December 2013
9 ‘Cool Britannia: Fashion’s Fickle Eye is Fixed on London’, The Times, 26 September 1996
10 Alexander McQueen: The Life and the Legacy, Judith Watt (Harper Design, New York, 2013), pp. 63–4
11 ‘The Real McQueen’, Alix Sharkey, Guardian, 6 July 1996
12 Interview with Seta Niland, 12 June 2013
13 Interview with Chris Bird, 16 September 2013
14 ‘Neo-Riemannian Theory and the Analysis of Pop-Rock Music’, Guy Capuzzo, Music Theory Spectrum, Vol. 26, No. 2, pp. 177–99
15 Interview with Seta Niland, 12 June 2013
16 Interview with Alice Smith, 7 May 2013
17 Interview with Michael McQueen, 7 November 2013
18 Interview with Seta Niland, 12 June 2013
19 ‘Madonna’s Magician’, Michael Gross, New York magazine, 12 October 1992
20 Ibid.
21 Interview with Plum Sykes, 30 August 2013
22 ‘Conflicting Conviction’, Samantha Murray Greenway, Dazed & Confused, September 1994
23 ‘New Kid on the Block’, Kathryn Samuel, Daily Telegraph, 24 February 1994
24 ‘All Hail McQueen’, Lorna V, Time Out, 24 September–1 October 1997
25 ‘Punk: On the Runway’, SHOWstudio, Rebecca Lowthorpe, http://showstudio.com/project/punk_on_the_runway/rebecca_lowthorpe
26 Interview with John Maybury, 15 September 2014
27 ‘Alexander McQueen’, Mark C. O’Flaherty, The Pink Paper, April 1994
28 ‘Talent Pool’, Adrian Clark, Fashion Weekly, 3 March 1994
29 ‘McQueening It’, Mimi Spencer, Vogue, June 1994
30 ‘Alexander McQueen’, Mark C. O’Flaherty, op. cit.
31 Interview with Plum Sykes, 30 August 2013
32 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
33 Interview with Eric Rose, 18 July 2013
34 Interview with Dai Rees, 18 September 2013
35 Interview with Nicholas Townsend/Trixie, 24 May 2013
36 Interview with Eric Rose, 31 July 2013
37 Interview with Nicholas Townsend/Trixie, 24 May 2013
38 ‘Paulita Sedgwick: Rancher, Actress and Independent Film-maker’, Charles Darwent, Independent, 29 January 2010
40 Interview with Nicholas Townsend/Trixie, 24 May 2013
41 Interview with Frank Franka, 14 June 2013
42 Interview with Nicholas Townsend/Trixie, 24 May 2013
43 ‘Lee McQueen’ by Donald Urquhart, email to AW, 23 October 2013
44 Interview with BillyBoy*, 8 August 2013
45 Interview with Miguel Adrover, 13 August 2013
46 ‘Down the Runways’, Ingrid Sischy, New Yorker, 2 May 1994
47 Ibid.
48 ‘Conflicting Conviction’, Samantha Murray Greenway, op. cit.
49 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
50 ‘Forever England’, Susannah Frankel, Independent, 8 September 2001
51 ‘The Court of McQueen’, Rebecca Lowthorpe, Observer Life, 23 February 1997
52 ‘England’s Glory’, Melanie Rickey, Independent, 28 February 1997
53 ‘England Rules OK’, Nick Foulkes, Evening Standard, 26 September 1997
54 ‘Forever England’, Susannah Frankel, op. cit.
55 ‘England Rules OK’, Nick Foulkes, op. cit.
56 ‘Forever England’, Susannah Frankel, op. cit.
57 ‘England Rules OK’, Nick Foulkes, op. cit.
58 Interview with Nicholas Townsend/Trixie, 24 May 2013
59 ‘Conflicting Conviction’, Samantha Murray Greenway, op. cit.
60 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
61 Email from Mr Pearl to AW, 12 October 2014
62 Interview with Alice Smith, 7 May 2013
63 ‘Lee McQueen’ by Donald Urquhart, email to AW, 23 October 2013
64 Interview with Plum Sykes, 30 August 2013
65 ‘Alexander McQueen 1969–2010’, Hamish Bowles, American Vogue, April 2010
66 ‘Avant-Garde Designer of the Year, Alexander McQueen’, Hamish Bowles, American Vogue, December 1999
67 ‘Alexander McQueen 1969–2010’, Hamish Bowles, op. cit.
68 ‘In London, Designers Are All Grown-Up’, Amy M. Spindler, New York Times, 11 October 1994
69 ‘Conflicting Conviction’, Samantha Murray Greenway, op. cit.
70 Interview with Seta Niland, 12 June 2013
Chapter Six
1 ‘Life as a Look’, Hilton Als, New Yorker, 30 March 1998
2 Email from Nicola Bateman to AW, 24 July 2014
3 Interview with A. M. Hanson, 2 July 2014
4 Email from Stephen Brogan to AW, 3 July 2014
5 ‘Life as a Look’, Hilton Als, op. cit.
6 Ibid.
7 Ibid.
8 Leigh Bowery, Diary, quoted in Leigh Bowery: The Life and Times of an Icon, Sue Tilley (Hodder & Stoughton, London, 1997), p. 97
9 Leigh Bowery, p. 100
10 ‘Life as a Look’, Hilton Als, op. cit.
11 ‘Lee McQueen’ by Donald Urquhart, email to AW, 23 October 2013
12 ‘Drama McQueen’, Rob Tannenbaum, Details, June 1997
13 Interview with Nicholas Townsend/Trixie, 24 May 2013
14 Interview with Fiona Cartledge, 7 August 2013
15 Email from A. M. Hanson to AW, 3 July 2014
16 Interview with Nicholas Townsend/Trixie, 24 May 2
013
17 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
18 Interview with Anna Harvey, 23 April 2014
19 ‘Fashion: A Little Bit of What You Fancy’, Marion Hume and Tamsin Blanchard, Independent, 17 March 1995
20 ‘Shock Treatment’, Colin McDowell, Sunday Times Style, 17 March 1996
21 ‘Boy Done Good’, Colin McDowell, Richard Woods, Simon Gage, Sunday Times, 10 December 2000
22 ‘Emperor of Bare Bottoms’, Lynn Barber, Observer, 15 December 1996
23 Interview with John Boddy, 28 January 2014
24 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
25 Email from Andrew Groves, 13 October 2014
26 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013.
27 Interview with Nicholas Townsend/Trixie, 24 May 2013
28 Interview with Chris Bird, 16 September 2013
29 ‘McQueen of England’, Ashley Heath, The Face, November 1996
30 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
31 Interview with John McKitterick, 1 April 2014
32 Interview with Adele Clough, 28 May 2014
33 Interview with Alice Smith, 7 May 2013
34 Balancing Acts: Commerce Versus Creativity, ICA video, 1995
35 Lucky Kunst: The Rise and Fall of Young British Art, Gregor Muir (Aurum, London, 2009), p. 168
36 ‘Where Have all the Cool People Gone?’, Jess Cartner-Morley, Guardian, 21 November 2003
37 Lucky Kunst, p. 155
38 Interview with Mira Chai Hyde, 16 May 2014
39 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
40 Interview with Mira Chai Hyde, 16 May 2014
41 Interview with Sebastian Pons, 20 August 2014
42 ‘Wings of Desire’, Susannah Frankel, Guardian Weekend, 25 January 1997
43 ‘Alexander the Great’, Judy Rumbold, Vogue supplement, August 1996
44 Interview with Suzy Menkes, 13 June 2014
45 ‘Simply Cool for Summer’, Iain R. Webb, The Times, 25 October 1995
46 ‘Divided We Rule’, Colin McDowell, Sunday Times, 29 October 1995
47 ‘Alexander the Great’, Judy Rumbold, op. cit.
48 Interview with Simon Ungless, 24 January 2014
49 Email from Liz Farrelly to AW, 25 November 2013
50 Email from Linda Björg Árnadóttir to AW, 4 July 2014
51 Interview with Janet McQueen, 17 September 2013
52 ‘i-Q’, Alexander McQueen, i-D, February 1996
53 ‘Fabric of Society’, Paula Reed, Sunday Times Style, 3 March 1996
54 Interview with Chris Bird, 16 September 2013
55 Interview with Chris Bird, 16 September 2013
56 Interview with Mira Chai Hyde, 16 May 2014
57 ‘Out of the Crypt and on to the Catwalk’, Tamsin Blanchard, Independent, 5 March 1996
58 Sunday Telegraph Magazine, 22 September 1996
59 ‘All Hail McQueen’, Lorna V, Time Out, 24 September–1 October 1997
60 Interview with Simon Ungless, 24 January 2014
61 ‘In London, Blueblood Meets Hot Blood’, Amy M. Spindler, New York Times, 5 March 1996
62 ‘The Macabre and the Poetic’, Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune, 5 March 1996
63 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
64 ‘Shock Treatment’, Colin McDowell, Sunday Times Style, 17 March 1996
65 ‘Alexander the Great’, Judy Rumbold, op. cit.
66 ‘Shock Treatment’, Colin McDowell, op. cit.
67 ‘Dullsville’, Guy Trebay, New York magazine, 15 April 1996
68 Ibid.
69 ‘The McQueen of England’, Women’s Wear Daily, 28 March 1996
70 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
71 ‘Alexander McQueen Meets Helen Mirren’, Dazed & Confused, September 1998
72 Interview with Marin Hopper, 7 August 2014
73 ‘The McQueen of England’, op. cit.
Chapter Seven
1 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
2 Postcard from Lee McQueen to Murray Arthur, 1996, courtesy of Murray Arthur
3 ‘Drama McQueen’, Rob Tannenbaum, Details, June 1997
4 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
5 Interview with Mira Chai Hyde, 16 May 2014
6 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
7 ‘Cutting Up Rough’, The Works, BBC, 1997
8 Ibid.
9 ‘Isabella Blow on Alexander McQueen’, Maggie Davis, Time Out, 13 September 2005
10 Blow by Blow, Detmar Blow, p. 157
11 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
12 ‘All Hail McQueen’, Lorna V, Time Out, 24 September–1 October 1997
13 Lee McQueen Twitter account, 1 February, reproduced in ‘Alexander McQueen’s Twitter Revealed Troubled Mind’, Nick Collins, Daily Telegraph, 12 February 2010
14 Interview with Dai Rees, 18 September 2013, email from Dai Rees to AW, 7 July 2014
15 Interview with Simon Costin, 15 April 2013
16 Interview with Sarah Burton, Susannah Frankel, AnOther magazine, Spring/Summer 2012
17 ‘Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton on Life After Lee’, Shaun Phillips, The Times, 24 October 2012
18 ‘Betraying Convention’, Liz Farrelly, Design Week, 3 October 1996
19 Nick Knight, Oral History of British Photography, British Library
20 ‘McQueen of England’, Ashley Heath, The Face, November 1996
21 Ibid.
22 Nick Knight, Oral History of British Photography, British Library
23 ‘London Rules Again’, Iain R. Webb, The Times, 2 October 1996
24 ‘All Hail McQueen’, Lorna V, op. cit.
25 ‘Charity Attack on Designer’, Independent, 2 October 1996
26 ‘London Rules Again’, Iain R. Webb, op. cit.
27 ‘British Thrills and Frills and Stateside Buzz – It’s Called Symbiosis’, Tamsin Blanchard, Independent, 1 October 1996
28 ‘Will This Be Dior’s New Look? – She Denies It of Course’, Independent, 14 August 1996
29 ‘French Fashion Has Designs on Britons’, Grace Bradberry, The Times, 9 October 1996
30 ‘Will This Be Dior’s New Look?’, Independent, op. cit.
31 McDowell’s Directory of Twentieth Century Fashion, p. 148
32 ‘If Galliano Goes to Dior, Will Alexander McQueen Go to Givenchy?’, Constance C. R. White, New York Times, 24 September 1996
33 Savage Beauty, Metropolitan Museum, p. 226
34 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
35 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
36 Interview with John Banks, 1 July 2014
37 ‘I’m Not Having Bumsters on George V’, Hilary Alexander, Daily Telegraph, 14 October 1996
38 Blow by Blow, p. 173
39 ‘Blowing In’, The Times, 1 November 1996
40 Email from John Banks to AW, 4 July 2014
41 Blow by Blow, p. 173
42 McQueen and I, More4
43 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
44 Isabella Blow interview, Lydia Slater, Daily Telegraph, quoted in Blow by Blow, p. 175
45 Interview with John Maybury, 15 September 2014
46 Interview with Daphne Guinness, 10 December 2013
47 ‘Bull in a Fashion Shop’, Susannah Frankel, Guardian, 15 October 1996
48 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
49 ‘From Rebel To Royalty as McQueen Is Crowned King of Fashion’, AngelButtolph, Evening Standard, 23 October 1996
50 ‘Low Cut – Diary’, P.H.S., The Times, 24 October 1996
51 ‘Cutting at Central St Martins’, Independent on Sunday, Ideal Home, 3 November 1996, reproduced in Alexander McQueen: The Life and the Legacy, p. 109
52 ‘McQueen and Country’, Christa D’Souza, Observer Magazine, 4 April 2001, originally published in Talk Magazine, March 2001
53 ‘Al
exander McQueen’s Final Bow’, Cathy Horyn, New York Times, 3 April 2010
54 ‘The Court of McQueen’, Rebecca Lowthorpe, Observer Life, 23 February 1997
55 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
56 McQueen and I, More4
57 ‘Ideal Homes, Alexander McQueen’, Rosanna Greenstreet, Independent on Sunday, 3 November 1996
58 Interview with Mira Chai Hyde, 16 May 2014
59 McQueen and I, More4
60 ‘England Rules OK’, Nick Foulkes, Evening Standard, 26 September 1997
61 Savage Beauty, Metropolitan Museum, p. 226
62 Interview with Simon Ungless, 24 January 2014
63 ‘I’m Not Having Bumsters on George V’, Hilary Alexander, op. cit.
64 McQueen and I, More4
65 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
66 ‘The Court of McQueen’, Rebecca Lowthorpe, Observer Life, 23 February 1997
67 Love Looks Not with the Eyes: Thirteen Years with Lee Alexander McQueen, Anne Deniau (Abrams, New York), p. 13
68 ‘Backstage McQueen: Q and A with Anne Deniau’, Eric Wilson, New York Times, 7 September 2012
69 Love Looks Not with the Eyes, p. 15
70 Ibid.
71 McQueen and I, More4
72 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
73 Blow by Blow, p. 175
74 McQueen and I, More4
75 ‘Postcard from London: Gear’, Hilton Als, New Yorker, 17 March 1997
76 Liz Tilberis, The Clothes Show, BBC1, 26 January 1997
77 ‘Paris Match’, Colin McDowell, Sunday Times, 26 January 1997
78 Diary, Kate Muir, The Times, 8 March 1997
79 ‘Postcard from London: Gear’, Hilton Als, op. cit.
80 ‘Wings of Desire’, Susannah Frankel, Guardian Weekend, 25 January 1997
81 ‘Postcard from London: Gear’, Hilton Als, op. cit.
Chapter Eight
1 ‘London Swings! Again!’, David Kamp, Vanity Fair, March 1997
2 ‘London Reigns’, Stryker McGuire, Newsweek, 4 November 1996
3 ‘This Time I’ve Come to Bury Cool Britannia’, Stryker McGuire, Observer Review, 29 March 2009
4 Email from Detmar Blow to AW, 17 July 2014
5 Blow by Blow, pp. 25–6
6 Email from Detmar Blow to AW, 17 July 2014
7 ‘Alexander McQueen and Issie Blow, You Will Be Missed’, David Kamp, Vanity Fair blog, 11 February 2010
8 ‘London Swings! Again!’, David Kamp, op. cit.
9 ‘Alexander McQueen and Issie Blow’, David Kamp, op. cit.
10 ‘London Swings! Again!’, David Kamp, op. cit.