54 ‘Oscar Losers’, Fatima Bholah, Sun, 26 March 2002
55 ‘McQueen and Country’, Christa D’Souza, op. cit.
56 ‘“Meeting the Queen Was Like Falling in Love”’, Joyce McQueen, Guardian, 20 April 2004
57 Interview with Jacqui McQueen, 29 August 2013
58 Interview with Jacqui McQueen, 29 August 2013
59 Interview with Daphne Guinness, 10 December 2013
60 Interview with Janet McQueen, 16 January 2014
61 ‘McQueen Stands and Delivers’, Hilary Alexander, op. cit.
62 ‘Killer McQueen’, Harriet Quick, op. cit.
63 ‘Britain’s New Queen of Fashion’, Chris Blackhurst, Evening Standard, 2 March 2011
64 ‘Ten Years with Lee’, William Russell, Pentagram video, http://new.pentagram.com/2012/12/ten-years-with-alexander-mcqueen/
65 ‘McQueen’s Space Odyssey’, Anamaria Wilson, Women’s Wear Daily, 1 August 2002
66 ‘Alexander McQueen’, Chris Heath, The Face, September 2002
67 Interview with John Maybury, 15 September 2014
68 ‘Killer McQueen’, Harriet Quick, op. cit.
69 Interview with John Maybury, 15 September 2014
70 ‘McQueen’s Parisian Love Story’, Susannah Frankel, Independent, 7 October 2002
71 ‘Oyster Dress’, Irere, Savage Beauty, Metropolitan Museum, http://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/oyster-dress-irere
72 ‘Go to Gucci . . . I’d Rather Die’, Lisa Armstrong, The Times, 3 March 2003
73 ‘How the West Coast Was Won – McQueen in LA’, James Collard, The Times, 7 February 2004
74 ‘Go to Gucci . . .’, Lisa Armstrong, op. cit.
75 Fashion Diary, Guy Trebay, New York Times, 11 March 2003
76 ‘Go to Gucci . . .’, Lisa Armstrong, op. cit.
77 ‘McQueen is Gifted Enough to Persuade Women to Take Risk’, Susannah Frankel, Independent, 12 June 2003
78 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
Chapter Twelve
1 ‘Fashion Victim: Isabella Blow’, David James Smith, Sunday Times, 12 August 2007
2 Blow by Blow, p. 223
3 Blow by Blow, p. 162
4 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
5 ‘McQueen: The Interview’, Alex Bilmes, GQ, May 2004
6 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
7 Interview with Sebastian Pons, 20 August 2014
8 Interview with Janet McQueen, 12 September 2014
9 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
10 Interview with Sebastian Pons, 20 August 2014
11 Interview with Plum Sykes, 30 August 2013
12 ‘Mwaah! Mwaah! I’m a Dedicated Follower of Fashion’, Jeff Randall, Sunday Telegraph, 28 September 2003
13 ‘Stella Gets Dressed Down by Banks’, Kathryn Spencer, Julie Carpenter, Kate Bohdanowicz, Daily Express, 29 September 2003
14 ‘At this Dance, McQueen’s the Last Man Standing’, Ginia Bellafante, New York Times, 13 October 2003
15 ‘Paris Fashion Report’, Colin McDowell, Sunday Times, 26 October 2003
16 ‘Day & Night’, Kathryn Spencer, Julie Carpenter, Kate Bohdanowicz, Daily Express, 15 January 2004
17 ‘Oliver, MBE, Fails to Invest in a Tie’, Alan Hamilton, The Times, 30 October 2003
18 ‘“Meeting the Queen Was Like Falling in Love”’, Joyce McQueen, Guardian, 20 April 2004
19 Interview with Janet McQueen, 12 September 2014
20 ‘Sticking With London, and Himself’, Cathy Horyn, New York Times, 2 March 2004
21 Interview with Daphne Guinness, 10 December 2013
22 ‘Crystal Gazing McQueen Branches out for V&A’, Charlie Porter, Guardian, 16 December 2003
23 ‘McQueen: The Interview’, Alex Bilmes, op. cit.
24 ‘“Meeting the Queen Was Like Falling in Love”’, Joyce McQueen, op. cit.
25 ‘The Real McQueen’, Susannah Frankel, American Harper’s Bazaar, April 2007
26 Interview with Sebastian Pons, 20 August 2014
27 Interview with Plum Sykes, 30 August 2013
28 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
29 Blow by Blow, p. 234
30 ‘The Old Black McQueen in London for Charity’, Jess Cartner-Morley, Guardian, 4 June 2004
31 ‘Annabelle Neilson’, Evening Standard, 18 June 2004
32 ‘McQueen: The Interview’, Alex Bilmes, op. cit.
33 ‘The Runway Bride’, Meenal Mistry, W, June 2006
34 ‘The Genius Next Door’, Andrew O’Hagan, T Magazine, New York Times, 22 August 2014
35 Interview with Plum Sykes, 30 August 2013
36 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
37 ‘Hail McQueen’, Bridget Foley, W, June 2008
38 Interview with Sue Stemp, 21 August 2014
39 Interview with Kerry Youmans, 30 April 2014
40 Interview with Glenn Andrew Teeuw, 13 October 2014
42 ‘Boy Done Good’, Jess Cartner-Morley, Guardian, 19 September 2005
43 ‘Renegade Luxury Is Born as McQueen Courts Youth Market’, Hilary Alexander, Daily Telegraph, 10 February 2006
44 ‘AlexanderMcQueen on The Execution of Lady Jane Grey’, Today, BBC Radio 4, http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/today/vote/greatestpainting/index.shtml
45 Elle magazine interview, quoted in Alexander McQueen: The Life and the Legacy, p. 228
46 ‘Kate Moss’, Subjective, SHOWstudio, http://showstudio.com/project/subjective/kate_moss_for_alexander_mcqueen_a_w_06
47 ‘Scorn of “Stitch Bitch” Alexander McQueen . . . Designer who Dressed (and Dissed!) the A-list’, Wendy Leigh, Mail on Sunday, 27 July 2014
48 Interview with Kerry Youmans, 30 April 2014
49 Savage Beauty, Metropolitan Museum, p. 25
Chapter Thirteen
1 Blow by Blow, p. 243
2 Blow by Blow, p. 246
3 Interview with Daphne Guinness, 10 December 2013
4 ‘Lips Together, Knees Apart’, Rupert Everett, Vanity Fair, September 2006
5 ‘NY UK’, Valentine Low, Evening Standard, 2 May 2006
6 ‘McQueen’s Tailoring Wins Wearability War’, Imogen Fox, Guardian, 7 October 2006
7 ‘The Real McQueen’, Susannah Frankel, American Harper’s Bazaar, April 2007
8 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
9 Interview with Kerry Youmans, 30 April 2014
10 Email from Alison D’Amario, 9 September 2014
11 Interview with Kerry Youmans, 30 April 2014
12 ‘Hail McQueen’, Bridget Foley, W, June 2008
13 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
14 ‘Scorn of “Stich Bitch” Alexander McQueen . . . Designer who Dressed (and Dissed!) the A-list’, Wendy Leigh, Mail on Sunday, 27 July 2014
15 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
16 ‘Hail McQueen’, Bridget Foley, op. cit.
17 Interview with Suzy Menkes, 13 June 2014
18 ‘Alexander McQueen: Psychic Search that Haunted Star’, Daily Express, 15 February 2010
19 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
20 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
21 Interview with Daphne Guinness, 10 December 2013
22 Interview with BillyBoy*, 8 August 2013
23 Email from Richard Gray to AW, 11 September 2014
24 ‘Scorn of “Stitch Bitch”’, Wendy Leigh, op. cit.
25 ‘Fashion Scents McQueen’s Perfumed Tribute to Late Muse’, Jess Cartner-Morley, Guardian, 6 October 2007
26 Ibid.
27 ‘Hail McQueen’, Bridget Foley, op. cit.
28 ‘Alexander McQueen Hanged Himself After Taking Drugs’, Sam Jones, Guardian, 28 April 2010
29 Email from Janet McQueen to AW, 8 September 2014
30 ‘Hail McQueen’, Bridget Fol
ey, op. cit.
31 Interview with Glenn Andrew Teeuw, 13 October 2014
32 Email from Janet McQueen to AW, 2 September 2014
33 ‘Hail McQueen’, Bridget Foley, op. cit.
34 Interview with Guy Morgan-Harris, 30 July 2013
35 ‘Collections Report’, Susannah Frankel, AnOther Magazine, S/S 2008
36 ‘Hail McQueen’, Bridget Foley, op. cit.
37 ‘Lagerfeld’s Seamless Twist on Classic Chanel’, Guardian Unlimited, 29 February 2008
38 ‘Alexander Has No Designs on Paris’, Kathryn Spencer with Lizzie Catt, Claudia Goulder and Catherine Boyle, Daily Express, 8 April 2008
39 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
40 ‘Amy Threw a £15,000 Dress from Alexander McQueen on the Barbecue’, Katie Nicholl, Mail on Sunday, 7 August 2011
41 Email from Sue Stemp to AW, 14 August 2013
42 Email from Janet McQueen to AW, 9 September 2014
43 Interview with Janet McQueen, 16 January 2014
44 ‘Natural Beauty’, Susannah Frankel, Independent, 6 April 2009
45 Email from Gary James McQueen to AW, 9 September 2014
46 ‘Exotic Creatures: McQueen’s Bid to Save the Planet’, Jess Cartner-Morley, Guardian, 4 October 2008
47 Interview with Michael McQueen, 7 November 2013
48 ‘Scorn of “Stich Bitch”’, Wendy Leigh, op. cit.
49 Interview with Paul Stag, 24 April 2013
50 Interview with Jacqui McQueen, 8 April 2014
51 Interview with Matav Sinclair, 27 May 2013
52 Interview with Sebastian Pons, 19 August 2014
53 ‘McQueen Leaves Fashion in Ruins’, Eric Wilson, New York Times, 12 March 2009
54 Savage Beauty, Metropolitan Museum, p. 227
55 Alexander McQueen: Working Process, photographs by Nick Waplington, foreword by Susannah Frankel (Damiani, Bologna, 2013), p. 1
56 ‘The Outsider’, Rachel Newsome, Ponystep, 21 January 2012
57 Alexander McQueen: Working Process, p. 5
58 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
59 Interview with Sebastian Pons, 19 August 2014
60 Email from Guy Morgan-Harris to AW, 27 February 2014
61 Interview with Janet McQueen, 2 October 2013
62 Interview with Janet McQueen, 16 January 2014
63 Interview with Jacqui McQueen, 29 August 2013
64 Interview with Janet McQueen, 17 September 2013
65 Interview with Paul Stag, 24 April 2013
66 Interview with Tony McQueen, 20 October 2013
67 Interview with Paul Stag, 24 April 2013
68 Interview with Janet McQueen, 16 January 2014
69 Interview with Paul Stag, 24 April 2013
70 Interview with BillyBoy*, 8 August 2013
71 Interview with Jane Hayward, 16 April 2013
72 ‘Hail McQueen’, Bridget Foley, op. cit.
73 ‘General Lee’, Cathy Horyn, New York Times, 13 September 2009
74 ‘As Tom Ford Bows Out, a Tiff Over Star Power’, Cathy Horyn, New York Times, 8 March 2004
75 ‘An Interview with Sarah Burton by Tim Blanks’, Savage Beauty, Metropolitan Museum, p. 229
76 Ibid.
77 ‘Alexander McQueen’s Last Collection Unveiled on Paris Catwalk’, Guardian Unlimited, 9 March 2010
78 ‘McQueen of the Jungle Prints and Towering Heels’, Laura Craik, Evening Standard, 7 October 2009
79 ‘Going Gaga over “Unwearable” Shoes’, Observer, 15 November 2009
80 Alexander McQueen show notes, Spring/Summer 2010, Susannah Frankel
81 Savage Beauty, Metropolitan Museum, p. 230
82 ‘Lady Gaga: The Interview’, Derek Blasberg, Harper’s Bazaar, May 2011
83 Interview with Janet McQueen, 16 January 2014
84 Interview with Paul Stag, 24 April 2013
85 Interview with Max Newsom, 19 July 2013
86 ‘A Man of Darkness and Dreams’, Ingrid Sischy, Vanity Fair, April 2010
87 ‘Alexander McQueen: The Final Interview’, Godfrey Deeny, Australian Harper’s Bazaar, April 2010
88 Email from Janet McQueen to AW, 16 September 2014
89 Interview with Michael McQueen, 7 November 2013
90 ‘To All My Children’, Joyce McQueen, courtesy of McQueen family archive
91 Interview with Dafydd Jones, 31 July 2014
92 Interview with Tony McQueen, 20 October 2013
93 Interview with Jacqui McQueen, 29 August 2013
94 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
95 Interview with Gary James McQueen, 11 June 2013
96 ‘Alexander McQueen’s Twitter Revealed Troubled Mind’, Nick Collins, Daily Telegraph, 12 February 2010
97 ‘Alexander McQueen’s Final Bow’, Cathy Horyn, New York Times, 3 April 2010
98 Interview with Kerry Youmans, 30 April 2014
99 Interview with Daphne Guinness, 10 December 2013
100 ‘Annabelle Neilson Remembers Alexander McQueen’, Annabelle Neilson, Harper’s Bazaar, May 2010
101 https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070221133728AAJGbds
102 Interview with Janet McQueen, 16 January 2014
Afterword
1 ‘Alexander McQueen’s Final Bow’, Cathy Horyn, New York Times, 3 April 2010
2 Interview with Michael McQueen, 7 November 2013
3 ‘The Lonely Suicide of Alexander McQueen . . . and Family’s Anger at Mystery of £16m Legacy’, Claudia Joseph, Mail on Sunday, 24 November 2013
4 Interview with Jacqui McQueen, 8 April 2014
5 Interview with Daphne Guinness, 10 December 2013
6 ‘L’Officiel, Alexander McQueen Le génie provocateur’, Tributes and Testimonies, ed. Patrick Cabasset, February 2010
7 Interview with Alice Smith, 7 May 2013
8 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
9 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
10 Interview with BillyBoy*, 8 August 2013
11 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
12 ‘Lee McQueen’ by Donald Urquhart, email to AW, 23 October 2013
13 Interview with Louise Wilson, 14 May 2014
14 Night Waves, BBC Radio 3, 11 February 2010
15 Interview with Miguel Adrover, 13 August 2013
16 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
17 Interview with Sebastian Pons, 19 August 2014
18 ‘It’s Sad that Alexander McQueen Has Died, but “Fashionistas” are Just Freaks: There I’ve Said It’, George Pitcher, Daily Telegraph, 15 February 2010
19 Interview with Ben de Lisi, 31 July 2013
20 Interview with John Maybury, 15 September 2014
21 ‘Naomi Campbell Hosts Haiti Show that Mourns McQueen’, Christine Kearney, Independent, 13 February 2010
22 Interview with Daphne Guinness, 10 December 2013
23 Interview with Gary James McQueen, 11 June 2013
24 Email from Janet McQueen to AW, 17 September 2014
25 ‘Alexander McQueen Hanged Himself After Taking Drugs’, Sam Jones, Guardian, 28 April 2010
26 Interview with Janet McQueen, 17 September 2013
27 Interview with Janet McQueen, 12 September 2014
28 ‘The Lonely Suicide of Alexander McQueen’, Claudia Joseph, op. cit.
29 Ibid.
30 Letter from Richard Day to Ronald McQueen, 2 November 2011, McQueen family papers
31 Interview with Jacqui McQueen, 29 August 2013
Picture Acknowledgements
The author and publishers would like to thank the following copyright-holders for permission to reproduce images in this book:
Copyright McQueen Family: here, here, here, here, here, here, here
Copyright Andrew Wilson: here, here, here
Courtesy of Peter Bowes: here
Courtesy of Derrick Tomlinson/Rosemarie Bolger: here
Courtesy of Rebecca Barton: here
Copyright BBC Photo Library: here
Copyright Jeremy Deller/taken at Sign of the Times Party: here
Copyright A.M. Hanson: here
Copyright Miguel Adrover: here, here
Copyright Mira Chai Hyde: here, here
Copyright Murray Arthur: here, here, here
Copyright Richard Brett: here
Copyright Getty Images: here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here
Copyright Rex Features: here, here, here, here, here, here, here
Copyright Jay Massacret: here
Copyright Archie Reed: here
Courtesy of Claridge’s: here
Copyright Dan Chung/G/M, Camera Press, London: here
Copyright Dafydd Jones: here
The author and publishers have made all reasonable efforts to contact copyright-holders for permission, and apologize for any omissions or errors in the form of credits given. Corrections may be made to future printings.
Andrew Wilson is a journalist who has written for the Guardian, the Daily Mail, the Daily Telegraph and the Observer. He is the author of the critically acclaimed Beautiful Shadow: A Life of Patricia Highsmith, the novel The Lying Tongue, Harold Robbins: The Man Who Invented Sex, Shadow of the Titanic and Mad Girl’s Love Song: Sylvia Plath and Life Before Ted.
Index
AIDS, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5
Akeroyd, Jonathan, ref 1, ref 2
Alexander, Hilary, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Amies, Hardy, ref 1, ref 2
Anderson & Sheppard, ref 1
Lee joins, ref 1
Lee quits, ref 1
Anderson, Peter, ref 1
Adrover, Miguel, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4
and Lee’s death, ref 1
on Lee’s drugs habit, ref 1
Angel, ref 1
Ankoné, Frans, ref 1, ref 2
Arnault, Bernard, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6
Arthur, Murray:
Antigua holiday of, ref 1
epilepsy suffered by, ref 1
and exorcism, ref 1
food poisoning suffered by, ref 1
Givenchy role of, ref 1
at Hilles, ref 1
Lee meets, ref 1
and Lee’s death, ref 1, ref 2
Lee’s deteriorating relationship with, ref 1
and Lee’s 40th birthday, ref 1
on Lee’s Givenchy appointment, ref 1
moves in with Lee, ref 1
moves into new house with Lee, ref 1