17 ‘Stars Pay Tribute to “Genius” Alexander McQueen at Memorial Service’, PA, Independent, 20 September 2010
18 Numéro, December 2007
19 ‘Alexander McQueen’s Haunting World’, Robin Givhan, Newsweek, 18 April 2011
20 Interview with Janet Street-Porter, 16 April 2013
21 Harper’s Bazaar, April 2007
22 ‘Stars Pay Tribute’, PA, op. cit.
23 ‘Memories of McQueen’, Hilary Alexander, op. cit.
24 Interview with Alice Smith, 7 May 2013
25 ‘The Savage and the Romantic’, Suzy Menkes, New York Times, 20 September 2010
26 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
27 ‘Remembering a Renegade Designer’, Cathy Horyn, op. cit.
28 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
29 ‘General Lee’, Cathy Horyn, T Magazine, New York Times, 11 September 2009
30 Numéro, December 2007
31 ‘General Lee’, Cathy Horyn, op. cit.
32 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
33 ‘All Hail McQueen’, Lorna V, Time Out, 24 September–1 October 1997
34 ‘Tears for Alexander the Great, Stars Turn out for McQueen’, Damien Fletcher, Daily Mirror, 21 September 2010
35 ‘Catwalk Stars Celebrate the Brutal Candour of a Tormented Virtuoso’, Lisa Armstrong, The Times, 21 September 2010
36 ‘McQueen: The Interview’, Alex Bilmes, GQ, May 2004
37 Harper’s & Queen, April 2003
38 ‘Killer McQueen’, Harriet Quick, British Vogue, October 2002
39 ‘Dressed to Thrill’, Judith Thurman, New Yorker, 16 May 2011
40 ‘An Enigma Remembered’, Economist, 12 November 2012
41 ‘Alexander McQueen’s Last Collection Unveiled on Paris Catwalk’, Jess Cartner-Morley, Guardian, 9 March 2010
42 Quoted in McQueen and I, More4, 25 February 2011
43 ‘Lean, Mean McQueen’, Vassi Chamberlain, Tatler, February 2004
44 Dazed & Confused, September 1998
45 Guardian, 19 September 2005
46 ‘Radical Fashion’, Tamsin Blanchard, Observer Magazine, 7 October 2001
47 ‘Lean, Mean McQueen’, Vassi Chamberlain, op. cit.
Chapter One
1 Interview with Michael McQueen, 7 November 2013
2 Interview with Tony McQueen, 20 October 2013
3 ‘A Brief History of Cane Hill, The Cult of Cane Hill’, Simon Cornwell, 2002, http://www.simoncornwell.com/urbex/projects/ch/index.htm
4 CR5 Magazine, Simon Cornwell, February 2013, reprinted on http://www.simoncornwell.com/urbex/projects/ch/ps/tunnels1.htm
5 Personality Questionnaire, Cane Hill Hospital, http://www.simoncornwell.com/urbex/projects/ch/doc1/personal1.htm
6 Interview with Michael McQueen, 7 November 2013
7 Interview with Janet McQueen, 17 September 2013
8 Interview with Tony McQueen, 20 October 2013
9 Ibid.
10 Record Your Own Family, Joyce B. McQueen, unpublished
11 Interview with Jacqui McQueen, 8 April 2014
12 Interview with Tony McQueen, 20 October 2013
13 ‘The Real McQueen’, Alix Sharkey, Guardian, 6 July 1996
14 Interview with Alice Smith, 7 May 2013
15 ‘Fashion’s Hard Case’, Richard Heller, Forbes magazine, 16 September 2002
16 Interview with Janet McQueen, 17 September 2013
17 Interview with Jacqui McQueen, 29 August 2013
18 Interview with Tony McQueen, 20 October 2013
19 Interview with Peter Bowes, 11 December 2013
20 Interview with Alice Smith, 7 May 2013
21 Interview with Murray Arthur, 21 November 2013
22 ‘“Meeting the Queen Was Like Falling in Love”’, Guardian, 20 April 2004
23 McQueen: The History of a Clan, Joyce B. McQueen, 1992, unpublished manuscript, copyright the McQueen family
24 Ibid.
25 Ibid.
26 Ibid.
27 Ibid.
28 Report of Dr Thomas Bond, quoted in The Ultimate Jack the Ripper Sourcebook: An Illustrated Encyclopedia, Stewart Evans and Keith Skinner (Constable and Robinson, London, 2001), pp. 345–7
29 McQueen: The History of a Clan
30 Record Your Own Family, Joyce B. McQueen, unpublished, copyright McQueen family
31 Ibid.
32 Interview with Michael McQueen, 7 November 2013
33 McQueen: The History of a Clan
34 ‘Alexander McQueen, The Final Interview’, Godfrey Deeny, Australian Harper’s Bazaar, April 2010
35 Record Your Own Family
36 Ibid.
37 Interview with Jacqui McQueen, 29 August 2013
38 Interview with Michael McQueen, 7 November 2013
39 ‘Lean, Mean McQueen’, Vassi Chamberlain, Tatler, February 2004
40 McQueen: The History of a Clan
41 Interview with Tony McQueen, 20 October 2013
42 Interview with Jacqui McQueen, 29 August 2013
43 McQueen: The History of a Clan
44 Will book, Joyce B. McQueen, unpublished, copyright the McQueen family
45 ‘“Meeting the Queen Was Like Falling in Love”’, Guardian, 20 April 2004
46 Deane family tree, Joyce B. Deane, unpublished, copyright of the McQueen family
47 Record Your Own Family
48 The Cuckoo’s Nest, Ron S. King (Lulu Enterprises, 2010), p. 125
49 Interview with Peter Bowes, 11 December 2013
50 ‘Emperor of Bare Bottoms’, Lynn Barber, Observer, 15 December 1996
51 ‘Alexander McQueen’, Chris Heath, The Face, September 2002
52 Interview with Janet McQueen, 30 April 2014
53 Interview with Rebecca Barton, 1 February 2014
54 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
55 Interview with Richard Brett, 16 July 2013
56 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
57 Interview with BillyBoy*, 8 August 2013
58 Interview with Janet McQueen, 16 January 2014
59 ‘The Real McQueen’, Susannah Frankel, Independent Fashion Magazine, Autumn/Winter 1999
60 ‘McCabre McQueen’, Katherine Betts, American Vogue, October 1997
61 ‘I Am the Resurrection’, Tony Marcus, i-D, September 1998
62 Interview with Peter Bowes, 11 December 2013
63 Lee McQueen, School Report, December 1980, courtesy of the McQueen family
64 Ibid.
65 Ibid.
66 Lee McQueen, School Report, March 1982, courtesy of the McQueen family
67 Lee McQueen, School Reports, December 1980 and March 1982, courtesy of the McQueen family
68 ‘The Real McQueen’, Susannah Frankel, op. cit.
69 Interview with Jason Meakin, 11 February 2014
70 ‘The Real McQueen’, Alix Sharkey, op. cit.
71 Interview with Peter Bowes, 11 December 2013
72 Ibid.
73 ‘The Real McQueen’, Susannah Frankel, op. cit.
74 ‘Lean, Mean McQueen’, Vassi Chamberlain, op. cit.
75 Joyce McQueen, McQueen family photo album
76 Interview with Russell Atkins, 11 March 2014
77 Interview with Jason Meakin, 11 February 2014
78 ‘i-Q’, Alexander McQueen, i-D, February 1996
79 Interview with Jason Meakin, 11 February 2014
80 Interview with Peter Bowes, 11 December 2013
81 Interview with Jason Meakin, 11 February 2014
82 Ibid.
83 Interview with Peter Bowes, 11 December 2013
84 ‘Emperor of Bare Bottoms’, Lynn Barber, op. cit.
85 Interview with Peter Bowes, 11 December 2013
86 Ibid.
87 Andrew Bolton quoted in ‘Alexander McQueen: “He Sewed Anger into his Clothes”’, Sarah Mower, Daily Telegraph, 17 April 2011
88 Interview with Janet McQueen, 16 January 2014
&nb
sp; 89 ‘Dressed to Thrill’, Judith Thurman, New Yorker, 16 May 2011
90 Interview with John Maybury, 15 September 2014
91 ‘Lean, Mean McQueen’, Vassi Chamberlain, op. cit.
92 Alexander McQueen on Rhona Cameron Show, quoted in McQueen and I, More4
93 ‘Emperor of Bare Bottoms’, Lynn Barber, op. cit.
Chapter Two
1 ‘A Man of Darkness and Dreams’, Ingrid Sischy, Vanity Fair, April 2010
2 ‘The Real McQueen’, Susannah Frankel, Independent Fashion Magazine, Autumn/Winter 1999
3 ‘Emperor of Bare Bottoms’, Lynn Barber, Observer, 15 December 1996
4 Interview with Janet McQueen, 17 September 2013
5 McDowell’s Directory of Twentieth Century Fashion, Colin McDowell (Frederick Muller, first published 1984, revised edition 1987), p. 9
6 Ibid., p. 15
7 Interview with Gary James McQueen, 11 June 2013
8 Interview with Paul McQueen, 17 September 2013
9 Interview with Janet McQueen, 17 September 2013
10 ‘The Real McQueen’, Alix Sharkey, Guardian, 6 July 1996
11 Joyce McQueen, speaking in 1997, quoted in McQueen and I, More4
12 ‘The Real McQueen’, Susannah Frankel, op. cit.
13 ‘A Style is Born’, David Kamp, Vanity Fair, November 2011
14 Interview with John Hitchcock, 17 April 2013
15 ‘Emperor of Bare Bottoms’, Lynn Barber, op. cit.
16 Interview with John Hitchcock, 17 April 2013
18 Interview with Derrick Tomlinson, 17 April 2013
19 Interview with John Hitchcock, 17 April 2013
20 Interview with Rosemarie Bolger, 24 May 2013
21 ‘Emperor of Bare Bottoms’, Lynn Barber, op. cit.
22 Frank Skinner Show, quoted in McQueen and I, More4
23 Interview with John Hitchcock, 17 April 2013
24 Interview with Rosemarie Bolger, 24 May 2013
25 ‘Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton on Life after Lee’, Shaun Phillips, The Times, 24 October 2012
26 Interview with Jacqui McQueen, 29 August 2013
27 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
28 Interview with John Hitchcock, 17 April 2013
29 ‘Emperor of Bare Bottoms’, Lynn Barber, op. cit.
30 ‘Cutting Up Rough’, The Works, BBC, 1997
31 ‘Emperor of Bare Bottoms’, Lynn Barber, op. cit.
32 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
33 ‘Emperor of Bare Bottoms’, Lynn Barber, op. cit.
34 Interview with Andrew Groves, 24 April 2013
35 Interview with Archie Reed, 25 May 2013
36 ‘Emperor of Bare Bottoms’, Lynn Barber, op. cit.
37 ‘Prototypes from the Perimeters’, Roger Tredre, Independent, 17 July 1993
38 ‘The Real McQueen’, Susannah Frankel, op. cit.
39 Interview with Koji Tatsuno, 14 September 2014
40 Frocking Life, Searching for Elsa Schiaparelli, BillyBoy* (Foundation Tanagra)
41 Tom Tredway in Biography, Identity and the Modern Interior, ed. Anne Massey and Penny Sparke (Ashgate, Farnham), p.98
42 Shocking Life, Elsa Schiaparelli (J. M. Dent & Sons, London, 1954), p. 17
43 Email from BillyBoy* to AW, 13 October 2014
44 Interview with BillyBoy*, 8 August 2013
45 BillyBoy* interview, Predrag Pajdic, The Pandorian, August 2010
46 Interview with BillyBoy*, 8 August 2013
47 The Pandorian, August 2010
48 Ibid.
49 Interview with BillyBoy*, 8 August 2013
50 Lee McQueen, excerpt from My American Life: In One Era, Out the Other, An Autobiography, BillyBoy*, fierth.com
51 Email from BillyBoy* to AW, 3 March 2014
52 Interview with BillyBoy*, 8 August 2013
53 Interview with John McKitterick, 1 April 2014
54 ‘The Real McQueen’, Susannah Frankel, op. cit.
55 McDowell’s Directory of Twentieth Century Fashion, p. 295
56 ‘An Italian Takes Paris’, Frank DeCaro, Newsday, 20 March 1989
57 ‘With Striking Fashions, Gigli Reaches New Heights’, Bernadine Morris, New York Times, 17 September 1989
58 ‘The Real McQueen’, Susannah Frankel, op. cit.
59 Email from Lise Strathdee to AW, 6 May 2014, copyright Lise Strathdee
60 ‘Alexander McQueen’, Katie Webb, Infotainment, Sky Magazine, March 1993
61 Email from Lise Strathdee to AW, 6 May 2014
62 Interview with John McKitterick, 1 April 2014
63 ‘Romeo, Romeo: The Monk of Milan’, Michael Gross, New York magazine, 5 December 1988
64 Interview with Carmen Artigas, 6 April 2014
65 Email from Lise Strathdee to AW, 6 May 2014
66 Interview with Simon Ungless, 24 January 2014
67 Interview with Carmen Artigas, 6 April 2014
68 Ibid.
69 ‘Romeo, Romeo’, Michael Gross, op. cit.
70 ‘The Real McQueen’, Susannah Frankel, op. cit.
71 Email from Lise Strathdee to AW, 6 May 2014
72 ‘Cutting Up Rough’, The Works, BBC, 1997
Chapter Three
1 ‘I Taught Them a Lesson’, James Sherwood, Independent, 19 February 2007
2 Interview with Bobby Hillson, 11 December 2013
3 ‘I Taught Them a Lesson’, James Sherwood, op. cit.
4 Interview with Bobby Hillson, 11 December 2013
5 ‘I Taught Them a Lesson’, James Sherwood, op. cit.
6 Interview with Bobby Hillson, 11 December 2013
7 Interview with Janet McQueen, 16 January 2014
8 British Style Genius, BBC, October 2008
9 Interview with Professor Louise Wilson, 14 May 2014
10 ‘Central St Martins Fashion College Bids Farewell to Charing Cross Road’, Tamsin Blanchard, Daily Telegraph, 24 June 2011
11 ‘No Rules Britannia!’, Hamish Bowles, American Vogue, May 2006
12 Interview with Professor Louise Wilson, 14 May 2014
13 Interview with Simon Ungless, 24 January 2014
14 Interview with Rebecca Barton, 1 February 2014
16 Email from Rebecca Barton to AW, 2 February 2014
17 Interview with Adele Clough, 28 May 2014
18 Interview with Tony McQueen, 20 October 2013
19 Interview with Réva Mivasagar, 31 January 2014
20 Email from Réva Mivasagar to AW, 28 May 2014
21 Interview with Professor Louise Wilson, 14 May 2014
22 Interview with Bobby Hillson, 11 December 2013
23 Interview with Rebecca Barton, 1 February 2014
24 Interview with Simon Ungless, 24 January 2014
25 Interview with Réva Mivasagar, 31 January 2014
26 Email from Réva Mivasagar to AW, 28 May 2014; interview with Réva Miva - sagar, 31 January 2014
27 Interview with Frank Franka, 14 June 2013
28 Interview with Eric Rose, 18 July 2013
29 Interview with Rebecca Barton, 1 February 2014
30 Interview with Tania Wade, 21 July 2014
31 ‘Inside London, The Groupie’, Marion Hume, American Vogue, January 1997
32 Interview with Rebecca Barton, 1 February 2014
33 Interview with Adele Clough, 28 May 2014
34 ‘The Fashion Stars of Central St Martins’, Johnny Davis, Observer Magazine, 7 February 2010
35 Interview with Professor Louise Wilson, 14 May 2014
36 Interview with Réva Mivasagar, 31 January 2014
37 Interview with Adele Clough, 28 May 2014
38 Interview with Bobby Hillson, 11 December 2013
39 Interview with Rebecca Barton, 1 February 2014
40 Interview with Réva Mivasagar, 31 January 2014
41 Interview
with Simon Ungless, 24 January 2014
42 Interview with Simon Costin, 15 April 2013
43 Press Notes, St Martins MA Graduate Show 1992
44 Interview with John McKitterick, 1 April 2014
45 Interview with Simon Ungless, 24 January 2014
46 ‘Cutting Up Rough’, The Works, BBC, 1997
47 Interview with Professor Louise Wilson, 14 May 2014
48 ‘All Hail McQueen’, Lorna V, Time Out, 24 September–1 October 1997
49 Interview with Réva Mivasagar, 31 January 2014
50 Interview with Lesley Goring, 29 May 2014
51 Interview with Bobby Hillson, 11 December 2013
52 Interview with Rebecca Barton, 1 February 2014
53 ‘Cutting Up Rough’, The Works, BBC, 1997
54 Interview with Rebecca Barton, 1 February 2014
Chapter Four
1 McQueen and I, More4
2 ‘The Mad Muse of Waterloo’, Larissa MacFarquhar, New Yorker, 19 March 2001
3 ‘A Blow to Accuracy’, Rachel Cooke, Observer Review, 3 October 2010
4 Interview with Réva Mivasagar, 31 January 2014
5 ‘Hail McQueen’, Bridget Foley, W Magazine, June 2008
6 ‘A Blow to Accuracy’, Rachel Cooke, op. cit.
7 Blow by Blow: The Story of Isabella Blow, Detmar Blow with Tom Sykes (HarperCollins, London, 2010), p. 6
8 Ibid., p. 4
9 Ibid., p. 1
10 ‘The Mad Muse of Waterloo’, Larissa MacFarquhar, op. cit.
11 Blow by Blow, p. 42
12 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
13 Interview with Réva Mivasagar, 31 January 2014
14 ‘The Real McQueen’, Alix Sharkey, Guardian, 6 July 1996
15 Interview with John McKitterick, 1 April 2014
16 ‘Kinky Gerlinky’, The Word, Channel 4, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAhqlcwxVYA
17 Ibid.
18 Interview with Réva Mivasagar, 31 January 2014
19 Christopher Hussey in Country Life, 7 and 14 September 1940, quoted in ‘A Family’s Idyll on the Hill’, Clive Aslet, Country Life, 1 February 2012
20 Isabella Blow: A Life in Fashion, Lauren Goldstein Crowe (Quartet Books, London, 2011), p. 111
21 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
22 ‘A Family’s Idyll on the Hill’, Clive Aslet, op. cit.
23 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
24 Blow by Blow, p. 158
25 Interview with Detmar Blow, 26 June 2013
26 Isabella Blow: A Life in Fashion, p. 130
27 ‘Isabella Blow on Alexander McQueen’, Maggie Davis, Time Out, 13 September 2005
28 Email from Réva Mivasagar to AW, 28 May 2014