Clarens, Switzerland, 16, 17
Coppet, Switzerland, 11
Enlightenment and, 5, 10
Geneva view of, 6
Jura Mountains, 3, 24, 139
Lausanne, Switzerland, 11–12, 24
Lavaux vineyards, 13, 24
Montreux, Switzerland, 18, 21, 22
Thonon-les-Bains, France, 23–24
Vaud, Switzerland, 11, 112
Vevey, Switzerland, 13
Via Italica, 18
“Year Without a Summer,” 19
see also Geneva, Switzerland
Lake Lucerne, 129
Lake Misurina, 256–57
Lamarr, Hedy, 229–30
languages in Switzerland, 115
Lanslebourg, 69–70, 72–73
lard line, 87, 123, 136, 269, 273, 275, 279
La Ripaille, 114–15, 123
Laurin (dwarf king), 255
Lausanne, Switzerland, 11–12, 24
Lavaux vineyards, 13, 24
Les Gets, France, 28
Lienz, Austria, 273–74
Le Lièvre Amoureux (The Amorous Hare), 100
Liguria, Italy, 87
Linderhof Castle, 183
Lineker, Gary, 269
Lisbon earthquake, 9–10
Little St. Bernard Pass, 74
Livy, 74, 75
Ljubljana, Slovenia, 289–90
Locarno, Switzerland, 136
Lorrain, Claude, 15
Louis XIV, 183
Ludwig II of Bavaria (king), 182–83, 188, 192, 218
Ludwig (movie), 192, 230
Lüftlmalerei, 185, 186
Lugano, Switzerland, 136
Luther, Martin, 148
Luxemburg Bookshop, 91–93
Made in Heaven (Mercury), 22
The Magic Mountain (Mann), 175
Magris, Claudio, 293
Mahler, Gustav, 215
Maibaum (Maypole), 198, 199
Maienfeld, Switzerland, 145, 153–54
mal di montagna, 46
Manfred, 262
Mangfall range, 194
Mann, Thomas, 175
Man Without Qualities (Musil), 219
Margherita (queen), 59
Maria Theresa (empress), 294
Marinetti, Filippo, 293
Marmolada, 253–54, 276
marmot, 236–37
Martigny, Switzerland, 109–11
Massilia (present-day Marseille), 214
Matterhorn (Monte Cervino)
altitude, 97
ascent by Whymper, 118
geology, 118
Der Kampf ums Matterhorn (movie), 168
north face, 45, 167
viewed from Zermatt, 117, 120–21
Maurice (saint), 61
Mauthen, Austria, 275
Maxentius, 77–78
Mayeul, Abbot of Cluny, 106, 107
McPhee, John, 139
McQueen, Steve, 182
Megève, France, 54–55, 56, 268
Mein Kampf (Hitler), 206
Meiringen, Switzerland
about, 157–58
Katarina’s party, 157–60
male choir, 158, 236
meringue pastries, 158
Sherlock Holmes and Arthur Conan Doyle, 160–65
Melville, Herman, 93
Menton, France, 23
Menzel, Idina, 232
Merano, Italy, 260, 261–62
Mercedes Bridge, 223
Mercury, Freddie, 21–22, 232
Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice) glacier, 47–48, 84, 125, 257
Messner, Reinhold, 260, 261
Mieming Plateau, 180
migrant crisis, 197
Milvian Bridge (Ponte Milvio), 78
Mirabell Castle, 212–13
Mirabell Gardens, 212
Mitterrand, François, 108
Mohr, Joseph, 212
Moncenisio. see Mont Cenis Pass
Mönch, 167, 173
Mondsee, 229
Montaigne, Michel de, 72, 73
Mont Blanc and surroundings, 23–50
altitude, 34, 97
ascent by early mountaineers, 35–37
Le Catogne, 107
climber deaths, 42
Cluses, France, 33, 34
Le Grand Dru, 48
Grandes Jorasses, 45, 48, 167
Great Alpine Road, 23, 25, 33
Grenoble, France, 28, 55, 59, 62
Les Gets, France, 28
Mont Blanc and surroundings
Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice) glacier, 47–48, 84, 125, 257
Mont Blanc Road Tunnel, 49
Montenvers, France, 47
number of climbers annually, 42
Le Petit Dru, 45, 48
Thonon-les-Bains, France, 23–24
viewed from Aosta Valley, 97, 100
viewed from Geneva, 6
see also Aiguille du Midi; Chamonix, France
“Mont Blanc: Lines Written in the Vale of Chamouni” (Percy Shelley), 47
Mont Blanc Road Tunnel, 49
Mont Cenis Pass
artworks, 73–74
ascent in France, 72–73, 79–83
botanical garden, 81–83
and Constantine (emperor), 77–78
descent into Italy, 83–86
description, 70, 73
as gate for invading armies, 70–71, 78–79
Hannibal and, 73–74, 75–76
and House of Savoy, 71–72
Lanslebourg, 69–70, 72–73
Mont Cenis Railway, 84–85
Mont des Cendres (Mount of Ashes), 73
Napoleon and, 73–74, 78, 79
Napoleon III and, 79
sledding and chaises, 72
Susa, Italy, 80, 85–88, 99
Via Francigena, 71
Monte Cervino. See Matterhorn
Monte Gran Paradiso, 97
Montenvers, France, 47
Monte Rosa, 45–46, 60, 97
Mont Maudit (Cursed Mount), 37, 61
Mont Pourri (Mount Rotten), 61, 62, 63, 66
Montreal Canadiens, 113
Montreux, Switzerland, 18, 21, 22
Mont Ventoux, 65
The Monuments Men (Clooney), 228
Morris, Jan, 293
Morrobia Valley, 137–38, 140–41
Morzine, France, 26, 27–28
mountaineering
Bergfilm (mountain film), 168, 187, 188, 192, 204
birth of, 36
Eiger climber deaths, 167–68, 169–70, 172
memoirs, 170
Mont Blanc, 35–37, 42
Mont Blanc climber deaths, 42
present-day variants, 43–44
mountains
Enlightenment view of, 8–10
fear of, 6–7, 12, 14, 93
Grand Tour and, 7–8
The Mountains of My Life (Bonatti), 170
Mount Loser, 223
Mount Prisojnik, 282–83
Mount Rotten (Mont Pourri), 61, 62, 63, 66
Mount Tambora, 19
Moûtiers, France, 59
Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus, 209–10, 211
Museo Nazionale San Gottardo, 134–35
Musil, Robert, 219
Mussolini, Benito, 287
Müstair, Switzerland, 266
The Name of the Rose (Eco), 147
Napoleon
and Andreas Hofer, 261
and Fort Bard, 79, 96, 108
and Gotthard Pass, 135
Great St. Bernard Pass, 108
and Mont Cenis Pass, 73–74, 78, 79
Napoleon III, 79
Nazis
Bergfilms and conquest of mountains, 168, 187, 192
Garmisch-Partenkirchen Winter Olympics, 186–87, 189, 200–201
looted works of art, 226–27
Night of the Long Knives, 189–90, 192–93, 229
Obersalzberg, Germany, 201–8
Romanticism and, 190–93
Schutzstaffel (Pr
otective Echelon, or SS), 189
Sturm Abteilung (Assault Division, or SA), 189
“Youth of the World” newsreel, 187
Necker, Jacques, 11
Newton, Isaac, 8–9
Nietzsche, Friedrich Wilhelm, 92–93, 168, 190, 270–71
Night of the Long Knives, 189–90, 192–93, 229
Nobel, Alfred, 278
NoéMie, 151, 152, 153, 155–56
Oberammergau, Germany, 184–85, 186
Oberaudorf, Germany, 195
Oberdrauburg, Austria, 274
Obersalzberg, Germany
the Berghof, 201, 202, 203, 206
destruction in 1945, 201
Dokumentationszentrum Obersalzberg, 205–8
Kehlsteinhaus (The Eagle’s Nest), 201, 202–5
Nazi compound during World War II, 201–2, 206–7
Obertraun, Austria, 222
Olympic Museum, 11
Olympics
Albertville (Winter 1992), 55, 56, 59, 94
Cortina d’Ampezzo (Winter 1956), 55, 257
Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Winter 1936), 55, 186–87, 189, 200–201
Grenoble (Winter 1968), 55, 62
Innsbruck (Winter 1964 and 1976), 55, 180
International Olympic Committee, 11, 186
Olympic Museum, 11
St. Moritz (Winter 1928 and 1948), 55, 268
Turin (Winter 2006), 95
ontological argument, 99
Onyx (Swiss military system), 115–16
Order of the Solar Temple, 28
Orsières, Switzerland, 106–9, 110, 166
Ötzi (the Iceman), 246–48, 259, 261
Ötztal Alps, 261
Paccard, Michel-Gabriel, 35–36, 37, 238
paragliders, 46, 124, 151
Parc du Denantou (in Lausanne), 11–12
Partenkirchen, Germany. See Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany
Le Pas dans le Vide (Step into the Void), 44–45
Passeier Valley, 261
Passionsspiel (Passion Play), 185
Passo di Monte Croce Carnico, 278
Pasterze Glacier, 237–38
Patrouille des Glaciers, 60
Pavarotti and Friends restaurant, 269
Pennine Alps, 107–8, 111
Peronne T., 27
Le Petit Dru, 45, 48, 167, 257
Pianazzo, Switzerland, 138, 139–41
Piazza Unita d’Italia, 294
Piedmont, 46, 57, 71, 83, 87, 95
see also Turin, Italy
Pierra Menta, 60
Pio (Padre Pio), 250
Piz Badile, 45, 167
Piz Gloria, 264
Plan de l’Aiguille, 38, 41
Plante, Jacques, 113–14
Plöcken Pass, 274–75, 277–78
Plummer, Christopher, 229
Pococke, Richard, 47
Polybius, 74
Ponte Milvio (Milvian Bridge), 78
Pont St. Charles, 65–66
Pordoi Pass, 252–53
Porta Prætoria, 98
Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man (Joyce), 292
Potard, Dominique, 39
Pound, Ezra, 262
Premier de cordée (Frison-Roche), 48–49
Principia (Newton), 8–9
Prisoner of Chillon (Byron), 19
Puster Valley, 259
Raitenau, Wolf Dietrich von, 212
Raleigh, Walter, 70
Ramsauer, Johann George, 213–14
Ramuz, Charles-Ferdinand, 112
Raudaschl, Alois, 227
Rébuffat, Gaston, 170, 258
Reichenbach Falls, 162, 164
Reinhard, 196–98, 199–200, 205, 236, 274
Reinhardt, Max, 211
Reit im Winkl, Germany, 198–99
Renault Mégane Sport, 4, 11, 95, 109–10, 135, 208, 256, 259
Reutte, Austria, 181
Rhine River, 44
Rhône Glacier, 129
Rhône River, 4, 44, 75, 111, 124
Rhône Valley, 111–12, 115, 124, 128
Riefenstahl, Leni, 168
Riesending Cave complex, 204
Rifugio Lavaredo, 258
Rilke, Rainer Maria, 293
Risorgimento (Resurgence), 58
Rite of Spring (Stravinsky), 17
Rites of Spring: The Great War and the Birth of the Modern Age (Eksteins), 191
Ritz, César, 53
River Adige, 241, 259
River Ammer, 184
River Dranse de Morzine, 26
River Drava, 274
River Inn, 180, 195, 267
River Isar, 188
River Isère, 59–60, 61, 63
River Ljubljanica, 289
River Piave, 286
River Po, 44, 76, 93
River Reuss, 133
River Salzach, 209, 210, 211–12
River Soča (River Isonzo), 284
River Ticino, 136
River Traun, 223
Röhm, Ernst, 189
Romansh language, 115n, 265, 266, 267
Romanticism in the Alps, 14–21, 92, 112, 190–93
Romantische Strasse, 183
Rommel, Erwin, 286–87
Rosengarten, 255
Rosl, Heigl, 258
Rossini, Gioacchino, 132
rösti, 123
rösti ditch (Röstigraben), 123, 133, 134
Rothschild, Noémie de (Baroness Mimi), 54
Rousseau, Jean-Jacques, 15, 16–18, 19, 93–94, 109, 190, 263
La Route des Grandes Alpes (Great Alpine Road), 23, 25, 33
Runggaldier, Helmuth, 250
Runkelstein Castle, 245–46
Ruska cesta (Russian Road), 281–83
Ruska kapelica chapel, 281–82
Ruskin, John, 120
Sacred Theory of the Earth (Burnet), 8
Saint-Bon Valley, 59
Salammbô (Flaubert), 76
Salter, James, 48
Salwan, 255
Salzburg, Austria
cathedral, 211
city center, 211
Mirabell Castle, 212–13
Mirabell Gardens, 212
Mozart and, 209–10
River Salzach, 209, 210, 211–12
Salzburg Festival, 211
Salzburg Residenz, 211
Steingasse, 211–12
von Trapp family and, 182, 210
Salzkammergut region
Altaussee, Austria, 223, 226–27, 270
Attersee, 228, 229
Bad Aussee, Austria, 223
Bad Ischl, Austria, 215–22, 230
Hallstatt, Austria, 213–15, 222, 224
Höllengebirge, 228–29
Koppen Pass, 222–23
Mercedes Bridge, 223
Mondsee, 229
Obertraun, Austria, 222
Sandling, 223
Sandling salt mine, 224–28
Südanfahrt, Austria, 222
Unterach am Attersee, 229
San Bernardino Pass, 139
Sandling, 223
Sandling salt mine, 224–28
San Giusto cathedral, 293
San Leonardo, Italy, 261
Saussure, Horace-Bénédict de, 34–35, 36
Savoy
Aime, France, 60
Albertville, France, 55–57, 74, 87, 91n, 94
Allues Valley, 59
Belleville Valley, 59
Bourg-Saint-Maurice, France, 61, 74
Espace Killy, 62
Grande Motte glacier, 62
history of Savoy and Savoyards, 51, 52–53, 57–59
Iseran Pass, 63, 64, 65–68, 139, 238, 263
Lac Chervil, 61, 63
Megève, France, 54–55, 56, 268
Moûtiers, France, 59
Pierra Menta, 60
Pont St. Charles, 65–66
River Isère, 59–60, 61, 63
Saint-Bon Valley, 59
Savoyard kings of Italy, 58–59
&
nbsp; St. Gervais les Bains, France, 51
Tarentaise Valley, 59
Tête d’Arolley, 66–68
Tignes, France, 61–62
Les Trois Vallées, 59–60
Val d’Isère, 62–63
Savoy Hotel, 52–53
Savoy Palace, 52
Savoy Societies, 53
Savoy Theatre, 52
Saxony, Germany, 148, 197–98, 205
Schama, Simon, 16
S-chanf, Switzerland, 267
Schengen Agreement, 197, 259
Scheuchzer, Johann Jakob, 9
Schiller, Friedrich von, 132
Schlanders, Italy, 262
Schliersee, Germany, 194
Schloss Runkelstein, 245–46
Schmitt, Sandra, 233
Schneider, Romy, 200, 230
Schober massif, 237
Scholasticism, 99
Schöllenen Gorge, 134
Schöneck, 237
Schratt, Katharina, 218
Schutzstaffel (Protective Echelon, or SS), 189
Schwaller, NoéMie, 151, 152, 153, 155–56
Schwarzbachwachtsattel, 199
Schwyz, Switzerland, 132, 136
Scrambles Among the Alps (Whymper), 119–20
Second Punic War, 74–77
seismology, founding of, 10
Sella Pass, 251–52
Selva di Val Gardena, Italy (Wolkenstein), 250
Sergio, in Bolzano, 244–45, 246, 260, 261, 286
Shelley, Mary Wollstonecraft, 19, 20–21, 47, 263
Shelley, Percy Bysshe, 19, 47
Sherlock Holmes, 160–65
shopkeeper budgerigar speech, 24, 25, 69
Sierre, Switzerland, 113–14
Sils Maria, Switzerland, 270
Simplon Pass, 70, 123
Sion, Switzerland, 112–13
Sisi. See Elisabeth of Austria
Slavia Friulana, Italy, 279
Smith, Albert, 39
Snowden, Edward, 115
Solo Faces (Salter), 48
Sontag, Susan, 191–92
Sophie (wife of Franz Ferdinand), 291
Soubirous, Bernadette, 27
The Sound of Music (movie), 82, 182, 187, 204, 210, 214, 229–30
South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, 247–48
South Tyrol (Südtirol or Alto Adige, Italy), 243–44, 262, 264–65, 275
Speer, Albert, 201
Spyri, Johanna, 154, 156
St. Barbara, 225
St. Bernard dogs, 103–5
St. Gallen, Switzerland, 146–52, 221, 229
St. Gervais les Bains, France, 51
St. John convent (Müstair, Switzerland), 266
St. Moritz, Switzerland, 54, 55, 61, 268–69, 270
Staël, Germaine (Mme. de Staël), 11
Stams monastery, 180
Starlight and Storm: The Conquest of the Great North Faces of the Alps (Rébuffat), 170, 258
Steck, Ueli, 174
Steingasse, 211–12
Stelvio Pass, 263–67
Stephen, Leslie, 40
Sterzing, Italy (Vipiteno), 260
Stevenson, Robert Louis, 199
Stoss Pass, 152, 158
Strauss, Johann, 215
Strauss, Richard, 211
Stravinsky, Igor, 17
Sturm Abteilung (Assault Division, or SA), 189
sublime, in nature, 17–18, 20, 35, 190, 264