Cadorna, Luigi, 284–86, 287
Caffè San Marco, 293–94
Caffè Symphony, 252
Canada, bilingualism, 115
Canal Grande, 294
Candide (Voltaire), 10, 197
cantons of Switzerland, 132n
Caporetto, Slovenia (Kobarid), 245, 284, 285, 286–87, 288–89
Carinthia, Austria, 197, 234, 274
Carnic Alps, 275–76, 279, 290
Carthage, 74, 76, 77
Casanova, Giacomo, 292
Castello del Buonconsiglio, 242–43, 245, 266
Castel Roncolo, 245–46
Le Catogne, 107
Cato the Elder, 77
Cauchy, Emmanuel, 46
Centrones, 75–76
Chablis, France, 3
Chalandmarz (First Day of March), 268
Chamberlain, Neville, 200
chamois, 29, 35, 36, 219, 221, 246
Chamonix, France
cog railway, 46, 47, 49–50, 84
Edward Whymper burial in, 120
foreigners in, 38, 39
medevac helicopter, 46
Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice) glacier, 47–48, 84, 125, 257
pollution, 49, 135
tourist attractions, 44
Winter Olympics in 1924, 55
Chaplin, Charlie, 114
Charlemagne, 78, 108, 204, 266
Charles Albert or Carlo Alberto (king), 57, 91n
cheese-producing meadows (alps or alpages), 31–32
Chiemgau, Germany, 197
Chillon Castle, 18–19
Chinese Hallstatt, 214–15
Church of Maria Locherboden, 180
Church of the Scourged Savior, 184
cicerone, 6–7
Cima Grande di Lavaredo, 45, 167, 257, 258
Cinque Torre (Five Towers), 254
Cinuos-chel, Switzerland, 267
Cividale del Friuli, Italy, 279
Clarens, Switzerland, 16, 17
Claude, at Orsières, 107–9
Claude Glass, 15, 17, 45
Clemens, Samuel Langhorne (Mark Twain), 82, 83, 129, 217
climate change, 47–48
clockwork universe, 9
Cluses, France, 33, 34
Cocteau, Jean, 54
cog railways
Chamonix, 46, 47, 49–50, 84
the Eiger, 166, 172, 174–75
Täsch, 117–18
Colombanus, 147
Conan Doyle, Arthur, 160–61, 163, 164–65, 199
Confessions of Zeno (Svevo), 292
Confessions (Rousseau), 93
Conquistadors of the Useless: From the Alps to Annapurna and Beyond (Terray), 170
Constantine (emperor), 77–78
Cook, Thomas, 39
Cook tourists, 39–41
Coppet, Switzerland, 11
Coppi, Fausto, 253
Le Corbusier, 248
Corinne (Staël), 11
Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy, 55, 254, 256, 257
Cottian Alps, 86–87
Cottius, Marcus Julius, 86
Council of Trent, 241–42, 254
Counter-Reformation, 242
Craig, Daniel, 264
cretinism (congenital iodine deficiency syndrome), 98, 120
crétins des Alpes, 7, 29, 98, 120
Croz, Michel, 119
Cruise, Tom, 242
Cursed Mount (Mont Maudit), 37, 61
cursed thistle, 82
Dachstein Mountains, 213
dahu, 29–30, 40, 51, 96
Daisy Miller (James), 19
The Damned (Visconti), 192–93, 229
d’Angeville, Henriette, 37
d’Annunzio, Gabriele, 277
Dante (Dante Alighieri), 72
Danubio (Magris), 293
Darbellay, Michel, 107, 166
d’Argenteuil, Héloïse, 16
Daudet, Alphonse, 129
da Vinci, Leonardo, 46
Davos, Switzerland, 160, 268
Deauville, France, 54n
décolletage, 33–34
Il deserto dei Tartari (The Tartar Steppe) (Buzzati), 96–97, 256
detours, 32–33, 51, 53, 195–96
Deutsche Alpenstrasse, 183, 193, 195, 197
Devil’s Bridge (Teufelsbrücke), 134, 135
Divina Commedia (Dante), 72
Docteur Vertical, 46
Dokumentationszentrum Obersalzberg, 205–8
Dolasilla, 256
Dolomieu, Déodat de, 249
Dolomites
about, 243, 248–49, 251–52
Alba di Canazei, Italy, 252
alpenglow, 255
anguane, 254
Bolzano, Italy (Bozen), 243, 244–47
Bressanone, Italy (Brixen), 260
Caffè Symphony, 252
Cinque Torre (Five Towers), 254
Dreisprachenspitze (The Peak of Three Languages), 264–65
Eisack Valley, 260
Fanes, 256
the Iceman (Ötzi), 246–48, 259, 261
Ladin language, 249–50
Lago Bai de Dones, 254
Laurin (dwarf king), 255
legends and folklore, 254–56, 263–64, 273
Marmolada, 253–54, 276
Merano, Italy, 260, 261–62
moon princess and, 255
Passeier Valley, 261
Pordoi Pass, 252–53
Puster Valley, 259
Rifugio Lavaredo, 258
Rosengarten, 255
Runkelstein Castle, 245–46
San Leonardo, Italy, 261
Schlanders, Italy, 262
Sella Pass, 251–52
Selva di Val Gardena, Italy (Wolkenstein), 243
Stelvio Pass, 263–67
Trafoi, Italy, 263
Tre Cime (Three Peaks) di Lavaredo, 257–59, 276
Urtijëi, Italy (Ortisei, St. Ulrich in Gröden), 249
Val Gardena, 248, 249–51
Val Venosta (Vinschgau), 262
Vipiteno, Italy (Sterzing), 260
Dostoyevsky, Fyodor, 4, 93
Douglas, Francis, 119
Dourdan, France, 189
D’Oyly Carte, Richard, 52–53
Dreisprachenspitze (The Peak of Three Languages), 264–65
Dubliners (Joyce), 292
Duino Elegies (Rilke), 293
Dumas, Alexandre, 36
Dutch campers, 30–31, 63, 84, 109, 231
Earth: An Intimate History (Fortey), 137–38
Eastwood, Clint, 174
Ebensalp, 149–51
Ecce Homo (Nietzsche), 91, 92
Eco, Umberto, 147
Ed. See Hernstadt, Edward
edelweiss, 82, 83, 255
Edelweissspitze (Bikers’ Point), 235
Eggishorn, 124–27
Eichmann, Adolf, 226, 270
Eiger
ascent by Darbellay, 107, 166
climber deaths, 167–68, 169–70, 172
cog railways, 166, 172, 174–75
contest to climb, 168–69
Eigerwand station, 172–73
Eismeer (Ice Sea) station, 173
Hôtel Bellevue des Alpes, 168
Jungfraubahn, 172
Kleine Scheidegg (Little Watershed) pass, 167, 168, 169, 171
north face (Norwand), 45, 107, 167, 168, 257
rail tunnel, 168
The Eiger Sanction (movie), 174
Eigerwand station, 172–73
Eigruber, August, 227
Eisack Valley, 260
Eismeer (Ice Sea) station, 173
Eksteins, Modris, 191
Eleanor of Provence, 52
“Elegy Written in a Country Churchyard” (Gray), 73
Elisabeth of Austria (Sisi) (empress)
about, 5, 220
and Bad Ischl, Austria, 216–18
Kaiservilla, 219, 220, 222
and King Ludwig II, 182, 218
m
arriage to Franz Josef, 216, 218
and Merano, Italy, 261
murder, 5, 6, 182, 216–17, 229–30
statue near Lake Geneva, 5–6, 34, 216
Ellis, Bret Easton, 42
Emile (Rousseau), 93–94
Les Enfants Terribles (Megève), 54
Engadine, 267–68, 270, 271
Enlightment, 8, 10, 242
Enola Gay controversy, 207
Ernst. see Herb, Ernst
Escoffier, Auguste, 53
Espace Killy, 62
Espace Vertical, 43
Evian-les-Bains, 24
Fanes, 256
Farewell to Arms (Hemingway), 287
Fell, John Barraclough, 84
Fendant de Sion, 111, 113
Fénis, 96
Fern Pass, 180, 181
Fernstein Castle, 180
Fiat, 95
Fiesch, Switzerland, 124, 127–28
Filiberto, Emanuele, 59
“The Final Problem” (Conan Doyle), 161–62, 164–65
Finnegan’s Wake (Joyce), 111, 292
First on the Rope (Frison-Roche), 48–49
Flaubert, Gustave, 76
Die Fledermaus (Strauss), 215
Fleming, Ian, 229, 263
Fort Bard, 96–97, 108
Fortey, Richard, 66, 137–39, 141
For Your Eyes Only (movie), 256
Franche-Comté, 3–4
Frank, Anne, 270
Frank, Bernhard, 205
Frankenstein, or The Modern Prometheus (Mary Shelley), 20–21
Franz Ferdinand (archduke), 219, 291
Franz Josef (emperor)
chamois hunting, 219, 221, 222
declaration of war in 1914, 220–21
Kaiservilla, 218–22
and Katharina Schratt, 218
marriage to Elisabeth of Austria (Sisi), 216, 218
Frederick Barbarossa (Holy Roman Emperor), 204, 259
Freud, Sigmund, 223
Friedrich, Caspar David, 92
Frison-Roche, Roger, 48
Friuli, Italy, 274–75, 279, 286, 287
Friulian language, 274, 279
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 274
Furka Pass
ascent, 128–30, 133
descent, 131–32
elevation, 131
Goldfinger (movie), 130
Mediterranean–North Sea watershed boundary, 133, 134
rösti ditch (Röstigraben), 134
Fusch, Austria, 234–39
Füssen, Germany, 181–82
Gailberg Saddle, 275, 277
Gailtaler Alps, 275
Gall, 147
Garibaldi, Giuseppe (Joseph Marie), 58
Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany, 55, 185–87, 189, 200–201
Gellert Grindelwald, 175
Geneva, Switzerland
arrival in, 4
description, 4–5
Large Hadron Collider, 5
statue of Empress Elisabeth of Austria, 5–6, 34, 216
view of Lake Geneva, 6
see also Lake Geneva and surroundings
Geneva Conventions, 79
gentian, 82–83
George of Liechtenstein (bishop-prince), 242–43, 245, 246
Gibbon, Edward, 12
Gibson, Mel, 242
Gletsch, Switzerland, 128–29
Gletscherstrasse (Road of the Glaciers), 237
Gmund, Germany, 193–94
Goebbels, Joseph, 187, 189
Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von, 7, 21
Goldfinger (movie), 130
Les Gorges du Pont-du-Diable (The Gorges of Devil’s Bridge), 25–26
Göring, Hermann, 201
Gotthard of Hildesheim, 134
Gotthard Pass
ascent, 133–34
descent, 136
as gate for invading armies, 70
Museo Nazionale San Gottardo, 134–35
rösti ditch (Röstigraben), 133
Graian Alps, 97, 98
The Grand Budapest Hotel (movie), 129
Grand Combin, 108
Le Grand Dru, 48
Grande Motte glacier, 62
La grande peur dans la montagne (Terror on the Mountain) (Ramuz), 111–12
Grandes Jorasses, 45, 48, 167
Grand Tour, 7–8, 40, 72
Gran Paradiso Park, Italy, 97, 236
Graubünden, Switzerland (Grisons), 264–65
Gray, Thomas, 73
Great Alpine Road, 23, 25, 33
The Great Escape (movie), 182
Great St. Bernard Pass
ascent from Aosta Valley, 100–101
descent into Switzerland, 105
as gate for invading armies, 70
Grand Tour, 8
history, 102
lake, 101
Muslim (Saracen) raiding from, 102, 106
St. Bernard dogs, 103–5
Via Italica, 18
Great St. Bernard Road Tunnel, 102–3
Greene, Mott, 137
Grenoble, France, 28, 55, 59, 62
Grimsel Pass, 128
Grindelwald, Gellert, 166, 175
Grindelwald, Switzerland, 157, 166–67, 168, 173, 175, 181
Grindelwald-Fiescher Glacier, 173
Grisons, Switzerland (Graubünden), 264–65
Grossglockner, 235, 237–39, 273
Grossglockner High Alpine Road (Grossglockner-Hochalpenstrasse), 234–39, 282
Habsburg-Lothringen, Markus Salvator, 219
Hadow, Douglas Robert, 119
Haider, Jörg, 274
hairpin turns, 28–29
Hallstatt, Austria, 213–15, 222, 224
Hallstatt Culture, 214
Hamlet (Shakespeare), 71
Hannibal, 73–78
Harrer, Heinrich, 170–72
Heidi (Spyri), 145–46, 154–55
Heidiland, 146, 151, 154, 155–57
Heiligenblut, Austria, 239
Heinz and Irene, 87–88
Hemingway, Ernest, 287, 288
Henry III (king), 52
Hepburn, Audrey, 112
Herb, Ernst
in Bad Ischl, Austria, 215–22, 230
in Heidiland, 154, 155–56
at Koppen Pass, 223
at Mondsee cathedral, 229
salt mine at Sandling, 225, 228
in Salzburg, Austria, 209–11
in St. Gallen, Switzerland, 146, 151–53, 155, 213
in Stoss Pass, 152–53, 158
on yodeling, 153, 158, 236
On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (movie), 264
Hernstadt, Edward (Ed)
in Bolzano, 244–45, 247–48
at the Jaufen Pass, 260–61
at Lake Misurina, 256–57
at the Marmolada, 253–54
in Merano, Italy, 261–62
in Müstair, Switzerland, 266
in Paris, 244
at Sella Pass, 251–52
in Selva di Val Gardena, 250
in Sils Maria, Switzerland, 271
at Stelvio Pass, 265
at Tre Cime di Lavaredo, 256–58, 269
Herzl, Theodor, 223, 226, 270
Hess, Rudolf, 189, 201
Hesse, Herman, 270
Hexenküche (the Witches’ Kitchen), 235
Himmler, Heinrich, 193, 229
Hindenburg, Paul von, 199
Hindenburghutte (Hindenburg Hut), 198–99
Historie of the World (Raleigh), 70
History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Gibbon), 12
Hitler, Adolf
admiration of King Ludwig II, 192
the Berghof, 201, 202, 203, 206
Mein Kampf, 206
Night of the Long Knives, 189–90
Winter Olympics, 1936, 186, 187
Hitler, Paula, 200
Hochtor Pass, 237, 239
Hofer, Andreas, 261, 262
Hofmannsthal, Hugo von, 211, 215
Höhenkrankheit, 46
Hohensalzburg Castle, 209
Hohe Tauern National Park, 236–37
Hollande, François, 109
Höllengebirge, 228–29
Holmes, Sherlock, 160–65
Hôtel Bellevue des Alpes, 168
Hotel Belvedere, 129–30
Hôtel du Mont Blanc (Megève), 54
Hotel Stati Uniti, 85–86
The Hound of the Baskervilles (Conan Doyle), 165
House of Savoy, 58–59, 71, 93, 96
Huckvale, David, 192
Hudson, Charles, 119
Huizhou, China (Chinese Hallstatt), 214–15
ibex, 97, 236, 267
the Iceman (Ötzi), 246–48, 259, 261
Ile-de-France, France, 3, 189
Innsbruck, Austria, 55, 179–80, 247
Insubric Line, 137–39, 141, 238
Interlaken, Switzerland, 157, 165
International Olympic Committee (IOC), 11, 186, 187
International Red Cross, 79
Iseran Pass, 63, 64, 65–68, 139, 238, 263
Isle of Reichenau, 147
Issogne, 95
Jackson, Philip, 5
James, Henry, 19
Jaufen Pass (Passo di Monte Giovo), 260–61
Jean-Michel, at Great St. Bernard Pass, 105
Jean-Michel, at Orsières, 107–9
Jornet, Kílian, 43
Josef (crown prince), 218
Joyce, James, 111, 292
Jubilee, 71–72
Julian Alps, 279, 281, 291
Julie, ou la nouvelle Héloïse (Rousseau), 15–16, 17
Jungfrau, 167, 168, 172, 173
Jungfraubahn, 172
Jungfraujoch, 166, 173–74
Jura Mountains, 3, 24, 139
Justus, 293
Kafka, Franz, 262
Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe, 238
Kaiservilla, 218–22
Kaltenbrunner, Ernst, 227
Der Kampf ums Matterhorn (movie), 168
Kant, Immanuel, 10, 99n
Kaprun, Austria, train disaster, 232–34
Karawanks, 290
Karwendel Alps, 188
Kehlsteinhaus (The Eagle’s Nest), 201, 202–5
Killy, Jean-Claude, 62
Kitzsteinhorn Glacier, 233
Klagenfurt, Austria, 197, 274
Kleine Scheidegg (Little Watershed) pass, 167, 168, 169, 171
Klimt, Gustav, 215, 229
Kobarid, Slovenia (Caporetto), 245, 284, 285, 286–87, 288–89
Kobarid Museum, 275, 287–88
the Kofel, 184, 185
König, Hermann, 227
Königsee, 204
Koppen Pass, 222–23
Kötschach, Austria, 275
Kranjska Gora, Slovenia, 280–81
Krupp, Gustav, 54
Kufstein, Austria, 195–96
K.u.K. (Kaiserlich und Königlich) signs, 217, 218–19, 261
Kurz, Toni, 169–70, 173, 200
Laas, Austria, 275
Lac Chervil, 61, 63
Lac Léman. See Lake Geneva
Ladin language, 249–50
Ladino language, 249
Lago Bai de Dones, 254
Laibach, 290
Lake Bled, 290
Lake Constance (Bodensee), 146, 147, 152
Lake Geneva and surroundings
Chillon Castle, 18–19