The Whispering Land

  GERALD DURRELL

  The Whispering Land

  WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY

  Ralph Thompson

  PENGUIN BOOKS

  Contents

  A Word in Advance

  PART ONE: THE CUSTOMS OF THE COUNTRY

  1. The Whispering Land

  2. A Sea of Headwaiters

  3. The Golden Swarm

  4. The Bulbous Beasts

  PART TWO: THE CUSTOMS OF THE COUNTRY

  5. Jujuy

  6. A City of Bichos

  7. Vampires and Wine

  8. A Wagon-Load of Bichos

  The Customs of the Country

  Stop Press

  Acknowledgements

  PENGUIN BOOKS

  THE WHISPERING LAND

  Gerald Durrell was born in Jamshedpur, India, in 1925. He returned to England in 1928 before settling on the island of Corfu with his family. In 1945 he joined the staff of Whipsnade Park as a student keeper, and in 1947 he led his first animal-collecting expedition to the Cameroons. He later undertook numerous further expeditions, visiting Paraguay, Argentina, Sierra Leone, Mexico, Mauritius, Assam and Madagascar. His first television programme, Two in the Bush, which documented his travels to New Zealand, Australia and Malaya, was made in 1962; he went on to make seventy programmes about his trips around the world. In 1959 he founded the Jersey Zoological Park, and in 1963 he founded the Jersey Wildlife Preservation Trust. He was awarded the OBE in 1982. Encouraged to write about his life’s work by his novelist brother Lawrence, Durrell published his first book, The Overloaded Ark, in 1953. It soon became a bestseller and he went on to write thirty-six other titles, including My Family and Other Animals, The Bafut Beagles, Encounters with Animals, The Drunken Forest, A Zoo in My Luggage, The Whispering Land, Menagerie Manor, The Amateur Naturalist and The Aye-Aye and I. Gerald Durrell died in 1995.

  THIS IS FOR

  BEBITA

  who, by leaving Argentina, has deprived me of my best reason for returning

  In calling up images of the past, I find the plains of Patagonia frequently pass across my eyes; yet these plains are pronounced by all to be wretched and useless. They can be described only by negative characters; without habitation, without water, without trees, without mountains, they support merely a few dwarf plants. Why, then, and the case is not peculiar to myself, have these arid wastes taken so firm a hold on my memory?

  CHARLES DARWIN

  THE VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BEAGLE

  A Word in Advance

  Some time ago I wrote a book (called A Zoo in My Luggage) in which I explained that after travelling to different parts of the world for a number of years, collecting live animals for various zoos, I became bored.

  I was not bored, I hasten to add, with the expeditions, still less with the animals I found. I was bored with having to part with these animals when I returned to England. The only answer to this was to start my own zoo, and how I set out to West Africa to gather the nucleus for this project, brought them home, and eventually founded my zoo on the island of Jersey, in the Channel Islands, I told about in A Zoo in My Luggage.

  This, then, is really a sort of continuation of that book, for in this I describe how my wife and I, accompanied by my indefatigable secretary, Sophie, went to spend eight months in Argentina, in order to bring back a nice South American collection for the Jersey Zoo, and how, in spite of many setbacks, this was what we did. If any praise for the collection is due it must go to Sophie, for, although she does not figure largely in these pages, she bore perhaps the greatest burden of the trip. Uncomplainingly she stayed in Buenos Aires and looked after the incessant flow of animals which I kept reappearing with from various places, and looked after them, moreover, in a way that would have done credit to a veteran collector. For this, and for many other reasons, I am deeply in her debt.

  PART ONE

  The Customs of the Country

  Buenos Aires, decked out for spring, was looking her best. The tall and elegant buildings seemed to gleam like icebergs in the sun, and the broad avenues were lined with jacaranda trees covered with a mist of mauvy blue flowers, or palo borracho, with their strange bottle-shaped trunks and their spindly branches starred with yellow and white flowers. The spring-like atmosphere seemed to have infected the pedestrians, who fled across the road through the traffic with even less caution than usual, while the drivers of the trams, buses and cars vied with each other in the time-honoured Buenos Aires game of seeing how close they could get to each other at the maximum speed without actually crashing.

  Not having a suicidal streak in me, I had refused to drive in the city, and so we swept on our death-defying way in the Land-Rover with Josefina at the wheel. Short, with curly auburn hair and big brown eyes, Josefina had a smile like a searchlight that could paralyse even the most unsusceptible male at twenty paces. By my side sat Mercedes, tall, slim, blonde and blue-eyed; she habitually wore an expression as though butter would not melt in her mouth, and this successfully concealed an iron will and grim, bulldog-like tenacity of purpose. These two girls were part of my private army of feminine pulchritude that I used in dealing with officialdom in the Argentine. At that precise moment we were heading towards the massive building that looked like a cross between the Parthenon and the Reichstag in whose massive interior lurked the most formidable enemy of sanity and liberty in Argentina: the Aduana, or Customs. On my arrival, some three weeks earlier, they had let all my highly dutiable articles of equipment, such as cameras, film, the Land-Rover and so on, into the country without a murmur; but, for some reason known only to the Almighty and the scintillating brains in the Aduana, they had confiscated all my nets, traps, cage-fronts and other worthless but necessary items of collecting equipment. So, for the past three weeks Mercedes, Josefina and I had spent every day in the bowels of the massive Customs House, being passed from office to office with a sort of clockwork-like regularity which was so monotonous and so frustrating that you really began to wonder if your brain would last out the course. Mercedes regarded me anxiously as Josefina wove in and out of fleeing pedestrians in a way that made my stomach turn over.

  ‘How are you feeling today, Gerry?’ she asked.

  ‘Wonderful, simply wonderful,’ I said bitterly; ‘there’s nothing I like better than to get up on a lovely morning like this and to feel that I have the whole sunlit day lying ahead in which to get on more intimate terms with the Customs.’

  ‘Now, please don’t talk like that,’ she said; ‘you promised me you wouldn’t lose your temper again; it doesn’t do any good.’

  ‘It may not do any good, but it relieves my feelings. I swear to you that if we are kept waiting half an hour outside an office to be told by its inmate at the end of it that it’s not his department, and to go along to Room Seven Hundred and Four, I shall not be responsible for my actions.’

  ‘But today we are going to see Señor Garcia,’ said Mercedes, with the air of one promising a sweet to a child.

  I snorted. ‘To the best of my knowledge we have seen at least fourteen Señor Garcias in that building in the past three weeks. The Garcia tribe treat the Customs as though it’s an old family firm. I should imagine that all the baby Garcias are born with a tiny rubber-stamp in their hands,’ I said, warming to my work. ‘As christening presents they receive faded portraits of San Martin, so that when they grow up they can hang them in their offices.’

  ‘Oh dear, I think you’d better sit in the car,’ said Mercedes.

  ‘What, and deprive me of the pleasure of continuing my genealogical investigation of the Garcia family?’

  ‘Well, promise that you won’t say anything,’ she said, turning her kingfisher-blue eyes on me pleadingly. ‘Please, Gerry, not a word.’

  ‘But I
never do say anything,’ I protested, ‘if I really voiced my thoughts the whole building would go up in flames.’

  ‘What about the other day when you said that under the dictatorship you got your things in and out of the country without trouble, whereas now we were a democracy you were being treated like a smuggler?’

  ‘Well, it’s perfectly true. Surely one is allowed to voice one’s thoughts, even in a democracy? For the last three weeks we have done nothing but struggle with these moronic individuals in the Customs, none of whom appears to be able to say anything except advise you to go and see Señor Garcia down the hall. I’ve wasted three weeks of valuable time when I could have been filming and collecting animals.’

  ‘De hand … de hand …’ Josefina said suddenly and loudly. I stuck my arm out of the window, and the speeding line of traffic behind us screeched to a shuddering halt as Josefina swung the Land-Rover into the side turning. The shouts of rage with cries of ‘¡animál!’ faded behind us.

  ‘Josefina, I do wish you would give us all a little more warning when you’re going to turn,’ I said. Josefina turned her glittering smile on to me.

  ‘Why?’ she inquired simply.

  ‘Well, it helps you know. It gives us a chance to prepare to meet our Maker.’

  ‘I ’ave never crash you yet, no?’ she asked.

  ‘No, but I feel it’s only a matter of time.’

  We swept majestically across an intersection at forty miles an hour, and a taxi coming from the opposite direction had to apply all its brakes to avoid hitting us amidships.

  ‘Blurry Bas-tard,’ said Josefina tranquilly.

  ‘Josefina! You must not use phrases like that,’ I remonstrated.

  ‘Why not?’ asked Josefina innocently. ‘You do.’

  ‘That is not the point,’ I said severely.

  ‘But it is nice to say, no?’ she said with satisfaction. ‘And I ’ave learn more; I know Blurry Bastard and …’

  ‘All right, all right,’ I said hastily. ‘I believe you. But for Heaven’s sake don’t use them in front of your mother, otherwise she’ll stop you driving for me.’

  There were, I reflected, certain drawbacks to having beautiful young women to help you in your work. True, they could charm the birds out of the trees, but I found that they also had tenacious memories when it came to the shorter, crisper Anglo Saxon expletives which I was occasionally driven to using in moments of stress.

  ‘De hand … de hand,’ said Josefina again, and we swept across the road, leaving a tangle of infuriated traffic behind us, and drew up outside the massive and gloomy façade of the Aduana.

  Three hours later we emerged, our brains numb, our feet aching, and threw ourselves into the Land-Rover.

  ‘Where we go to now?’ inquired Josefina listlessly.

  ‘A bar,’ I said, ‘any bar where I can have a brandy and a couple of aspirins.’

  ‘O.K.,’ said Josefina, letting in the clutch.

  ‘I think tomorrow we will have success,’ said Mercedes, in an effort to revive our flagging spirits.

  ‘Listen,’ I said with some asperity, ‘Señor Garcia, God bless his blue chin and eau-de-cologne-encrusted brow, was about as much use as a beetle in a bottle. And you know it.’

  ‘No, no, Gerry. He has promised tomorrow to take me to see one of the high-up men in the Aduana.’

  ‘What’s his name … Garcia?’

  ‘No, a Señor Dante.’

  ‘How singularly appropriate. Only a man with a name like Dante would be able to survive in that Inferno of Garcias.’

  ‘And you nearly spoilt everything,’ said Mercedes reproachfully, ‘asking him if that was a picture of his father. You knew it was San Martin.’

  ‘Yes, I know, but I felt if I didn’t say something silly my brain would snap like a pair of ancient elastic-sided boots.’

  Josefina drew up outside a bar, and we assembled at a table on the edge of the pavement and sipped our drinks in depressed silence. Presently I managed to shake my mind free of the numbing effect that the Aduana always had on it, and turn my attention to other problems.

  ‘Lend me fifty cents, will you?’ I asked Mercedes. ‘I want to phone up Marie.’

  ‘Why?’ inquired Mercedes.

  ‘If you must know she’s promised to find me a place to keep the tapir. The hotel won’t let me keep it on the roof.’

  ‘What is a tapir?’ asked Josefina interestedly.

  ‘It’s a sort of animal, about as big as a pony, with a long nose. It looks like a small elephant gone wrong.’

  ‘I am not surprised that the hotel won’t let you keep it on the roof,’ said Mercedes.

  ‘But this one’s only a baby … about the size of a pig.’

  ‘Well, here’s your fifty cents.’

  I found the phone, mastered the intricacies of the Argentine telephone system and dialled Marie’s number.

  ‘Marie? Gerry here. What luck about the tapir?’

  ‘Well, my friends are away so you can’t take him there. But Mama says why not bring him here and keep him in the garden.’

  ‘Are you sure that’s all right?’

  ‘Well, it was Mama’s idea.’

  ‘Yes, but are you sure she knows what a tapir is?’

  ‘Yes, I told her it was a little animal with fur.’

  ‘Not exactly a zoological description. What’s she going to say when I turn up with something that’s nearly bald and the size of a pig?’

  ‘Once it’s here, it’s here,’ said Marie logically.

  I sighed.

  ‘All right. I’ll bring it round this evening. O.K.?’

  ‘O.K., and don’t forget some food for it.’

  I went back to where Josefina and Mercedes were waiting with an air of well-bred curiosity.

  ‘Well, what did she say?’ inquired Mercedes at length.

  ‘We put Operation Tapir into force at four o’clock this afternoon.’

  ‘Where do we take it?’

  ‘To Marie’s house. Her mother’s offered to keep it in the garden.’

  ‘Good God, no!’ said Mercedes with considerable dramatic effect.

  ‘Well, why not?’ I asked.

  ‘But you cannot take it there, Gerry. The garden is only a small one. Besides, Mrs Rodrigues is very fond of her flowers.’

  ‘What’s that got to do with the tapir? He’ll be on a leash. Anyway, he’s got to go somewhere, and that’s the only offer of accommodation I’ve had so far.’

  ‘All right, take him there,’ said Mercedes with the ill-concealed air of satisfaction of one who knows she is right, ‘but don’t say I didn’t warn you.’

  ‘All right, all right. Let’s go and have some lunch now, because I’ve got to pick up Jacquie at two o’clock to go and see the shipping people about our return passages. After that we can go and pick up Claudius.’

  ‘Who’s Claudius?’ asked Mercedes, puzzled.

  ‘The tapir. I’ve christened him that because with that Roman snout of his he looks like one of the ancient Emperors.’

  ‘Claudius!’ said Josefina, giggling. ‘Dat is blurry funny.’

  So, at four o’clock that afternoon we collected the somewhat reluctant tapir and drove round to Marie’s house, purchasing en route a long dog-leash and a collar big enough for a Great Dane. The garden was, as Mercedes had said, very small. It measured some fifty feet by fifty, a sort of hollow square surrounded on three sides by the black walls of the neighbouring houses, and on the fourth side was a tiny verandah and French windows, leading into the Rodrigues establishment. It was, by virtue of the height of the building surrounding it, a damp and rather gloomy little garden, but Mrs Rodrigues had done wonders to improve it by planting those flowers and shrubs which flourish best in such ill-lit situations. We had to carry Claudius, kicking violently, through the house, out of the French windows, where we attached his leash to the bottom of the steps. He wiffled his Roman snout appreciatively at the scents of damp earth and flowers that were wafted to him,
and heaved a deep sigh of content. I placed a bowl of water by his side, a huge stack of chopped vegetables and fruit, and left him. Marie promised that she would phone me at the hotel the first thing the following morning and let me know how Claudius had settled down. This she dutifully did.

  ‘Gerry? Good morning.’

  ‘Good morning. How’s Claudius?’

  ‘Well, I think you had better come round,’ she said with an air of someone trying to break bad news tactfully.

  ‘Why, what’s the matter? He’s not ill, is he?’ I asked, alarmed.

  ‘Oh, no. Not ill,’ said Marie sepulchrally. ‘But last night he broke his leash, and by the time we discovered him, he had eaten half Mama’s begonias. I’ve got him locked in the coal cellar, and Mama’s upstairs having a headache. I think you had better come round and bring a new leash.’

  Cursing animals in general and tapirs in particular, I leapt into a taxi and fled round to Marie’s, pausing on the way to buy fourteen pots of the finest begonias I could procure. I found Claudius, covered with coal-dust, meditatively chewing a leaf. I reprimanded him, put on his new and stronger leash (strong enough, one would have thought, to hold a dinosaur), wrote a note of apology to Mrs Rodrigues, and left, Marie having promised to get in touch immediately should anything further transpire. The next morning she rang me again.

  ‘Gerry? Good morning.’

  ‘Good morning. Everything all right?’

  ‘No,’ said Marie gloomily, ‘he’s done it again. Mama has no begonias left now, and the rest of the garden looks as if a bulldozer’s been at work. I think he will have to have a chain you know.’

  ‘Dear God,’ I groaned, ‘what with the Aduana and this bloody tapir, it’s enough to drive one to drink. All right, I’ll come round and bring a chain.’

  Once more I arrived at the Rodrigues establishment, carrying a chain that could have been used to anchor the Queen Mary, and bearing another herbaceous border in pots. Claudius was enchanted with the chain. He found it tasted very nice if sucked loudly, and better still, it made a loud and tuneful rattling if he jerked his head up and down, a noise that suggested there was a small iron-foundry at work in the Rodrigues garden. I left hurriedly before Mrs Rodrigues came down to ascertain the cause of the noise. Marie phoned me the following morning.