hummus, 65–66, 85, 101, 119, 123, 154, 158, 180, 216, 234, 260, 266, 272, 275, 291, 301
hush puppies, 67
Hussein (Bazzi cousin), 256, 257, 258, 259
Hussein, Imam, 106, 128
Hussein, Saddam, 35, 48, 62, 65, 79, 80, 82, 89, 102, 106, 111, 115, 116, 119–21, 125–26, 129, 137–38, 139, 141, 145, 159, 287, 311
Hussein, Uday, 80, 88, 122
husseinieh, 205–7
Ibn Khaldun, 60, 76, 77, 155, 319
Ibrahim (Bazzi relative), 33, 43, 44
identity cards, 125, 283, 284, 306, 311, 319
iftar, 100–104, 319
imams, 132, 223
improvised explosive devices (IEDs), 50–51, 173
India, 55, 311
Institute for War & Peace Reporting, 75–76, 126
Internet, 20, 81–82, 86, 124, 232–33, 318
Iran, 55, 66, 77–78, 128, 154, 158, 159, 189, 205, 210–11, 212, 251, 274, 282, 303
Iran-Iraq War, 44, 77–78, 79, 116, 144
Iraq:
agriculture in, 73, 77, 78, 156
ancient culture of, 69–73, 94–97, 154–56, 276, 319
anti-Americanism in, 145–46, 210
assassinations in, 151–52, 161–62, 222
Baath government of, 76–77, 88, 97, 112, 116, 120, 136, 137, 141, 213
British influence in, 51, 55, 107–8, 111, 115–16, 156
constitution of, 118
corruption in, 117–18
cuisine of, 56, 62–68, 147–49, 154–57, 163–65
democracy in, 76, 130, 136, 140, 183
economy of, 63, 77, 78, 88–89, 142, 163
education in, 76, 148
elections in, 130, 183
flag of, 145–46
government of, 57, 117, 135, 136, 161, 210, 287
history of, 59–60, 69–83, 93, 94–97, 107–8, 115–18, 154–56, 276, 319
insurgency in, 66, 102–3, 104, 132, 149, 151–52, 161–62, 169–70, 209–10
kidnappings in, 169–70
Kurdish population of, 78, 79, 88, 125, 126, 143, 162
legal system of, 76, 115, 116–18, 140, 141–42
marriage in, 81, 95–96, 141, 142–43
middle class in, 78, 79–80, 158
monarchy of, 55, 107–8
oil supplies of, 63, 77, 78, 79
police forces in, 125, 139
political situation in, 81, 110–21, 125–26, 129–31, 161
regime change in, 78, 88, 136, 140
security situation in, 22, 48, 50–51, 64, 110, 114, 115, 123, 125, 127, 144, 145–46, 149, 151–52, 161–62, 169–70, 210
Shiite population of, 48, 77, 88, 90, 94, 113, 125–26, 127, 128, 129, 130, 132, 141, 209–11, 222, 287
Sunni population of, 78, 88, 94, 113, 127, 128, 137–38, 209–11, 227
tribes of, 60, 77, 111–19, 129, 131, 133–35, 139, 141
UN sanctions against, 56, 61, 65, 78–79, 88, 102, 164
U.S. invasion of, 78, 81, 111, 136, 137, 139, 297
U.S. occupation of, 51, 56–57, 64, 66, 78–79, 110–21, 122–25, 127, 132–49, 151, 161–62, 169–70, 209–10, 218, 222, 223, 316
women’s centers in, 125–31
“Iraqi Atkins,” 66
Iraqi Communist Party, 120
Iraqi National Museum, 57
Irish soda bread, 23
irrigation, 73, 156
Islam:
alcohol forbidden by, 94–95, 160, 214–15, 225, 227, 318, 319
calendar of, 224
clerics in, 44, 46, 94, 96–97, 129, 133–34, 140, 159, 195
conversion to, 41–42, 46, 155, 170
funerals and mourning in, 199–208, 308–10
Golden Age of, 155
hardline, 137–38, 318
law of (Sharia), 27, 60–61, 96, 137, 140, 141–42
marriage in, 36, 39, 41–44, 47, 194–98, 208, 222
prayer times in, 58, 101, 126, 133, 244, 305
Shiite, 15, 27–28, 43–44, 48, 77, 88, 90, 94, 113, 125–26, 127, 128, 129, 130, 132, 133–42, 159, 185, 188–89, 190, 191, 194–214, 222, 223, 244, 246–47, 257, 273, 274–75, 281–84, 287, 296, 308–12
Sunni, 78, 88, 94, 113, 127, 128, 137–38, 190, 210–12, 223, 227, 280–84, 285, 308–12, 319
Islamic Army in Iraq, 169
Islamic Revolution, 205
Israel, 41, 145, 185, 188–89, 191, 202, 212, 241–59, 262, 263, 270–76, 279, 300, 301, 303, 311, 316
Israel Defense Forces (IDF), 247
Ivory Coast, 215–16
jabalieh tomatoes, 47
Jabar, Faleh, 76, 95–98
Jackson (radio reporter), 244, 249, 250
Jacob, 49, 59
Jadriyah neighborhood, 62, 64
Jahiz, Abu Uthman Amr ibn Bahr al-, 105
jajik, 93, 157
Jamal Pasha, 186
Janabi, Sheikh Adnan al-, 116–17
Japan, 226
Jeanne D’Arc Street, 170, 178, 183
Jerf el-Ahmar, 59
Jew’s Mallow, 227, 352–53
Jezairy, Zuhair al-, 95, 97
jihad, 130, 176, 301
Jiyeh power plant, 242
Jones, Martin, 59
Jordan, 51, 55–57, 163, 169, 247
Jumblatt, Walid, 299–300
Jumhuriyah Bridge, 97–98
jute (Corchorus olitorius), 226
kaak, 175, 319
Kafka, Franz, 139
kafta bi saynieh, 207, 334–35
Kalashnikov rifles, 19, 79, 254, 304
kamuneh, 224, 350–51
Karada neighborhood, 92–93, 97, 98–99, 103–4, 123, 156
Karbala, Battle of, 106, 159
Karbala, Iraq, 16, 125–31, 159, 195, 200
Kashif al-Ghitta, Amal, 137, 139, 159, 160–61
Kassir, Samir, 35, 209
katab al-kitaab (Islamic marriage contract), 39, 42–43, 194–98
kebabs, 26–27, 30, 94, 147, 148, 158
kebbeh nayeh, 235
khadarjis (greengrocers), 181–82, 231–32
Khadija (Bazzi aunt), 40, 47, 208–9, 221, 249, 251, 255–59
Khafaji, Salama Hassoun al-, 132, 133, 142, 151, 157–60, 169, 197, 221–22, 316
khamsin, 191–92
Khomeini, Ayatollah Ruhollah, 77, 205, 245
khubaizeh, 193, 217, 320
Khuttab, Omar ibn al-, 210
kibbeh, 85–86, 189, 217
kibbeh nayeh, 45, 207, 348–49
kibbeh qras, 85–86, 204
King, Alan, 110–15, 117, 118–19, 162
Kinshasa, 215–16
Kirkuk, Iraq, 55
Kiryat Shmona, Israel, 263
kishk al-fuqara, 219
kitchens, 15, 59, 221, 223–25, 229, 266–69, 271–72
Kraus, Karl, xi
kubba, 112
kubbet hamudh, 163, 164
Kufa, Iraq, 128
Kurds, 78, 79, 88, 125, 126, 143, 162, 181, 318
Kuwait, 78
labneh, 218, 219, 234, 242, 264, 301–2
lamb, 11, 45, 94
La Perla store, 174–75
Lapidus, Ira, 141
Lawrence, T. E., 51
Layla (friend), 87–89, 123–25, 142, 149
Laylak (daughter of friend), 102, 103
Leaves of Grass (Whitman), 15
Lebanon:
agriculture in, 182, 218–20, 231–32
assassinations in, 184–87, 191, 209, 211–12, 213, 216, 257–58, 294
casualties in, 253, 270, 275, 307–10, 312
cease-fire for, 270
census of (1932), 190
Christian population of, 188, 189, 190, 191, 199, 209, 211, 212, 280, 299
civil war of, 17–20, 21, 48, 153–54, 171, 173, 174, 176–78, 184, 185, 187, 188, 190, 194–95, 202, 211, 221, 242, 243, 245, 252, 274, 281, 283, 285, 287–88, 289, 301
“confessional system” of, 189–90
corruption in, 174–75, 176, 189–90, 274
cuisine of, 11, 20, 21, 26–27, 66, 67, 84, 158, 163, 179–80, 218–28, 234–37, 266–69, 291, 315–16, 320–21
democracy in, 186, 187, 189–90, 193, 249, 263–64, 271, 287–88
demographics of, 188–89, 190
earthquake in, 296–97
economy of, 174–76, 187, 188, 212, 230–31, 232, 270, 280
education in, 187, 288
elections in, 185, 187, 189–90
expatriates from, 48, 183, 187, 215–16, 317–18
flag of, 186, 280
French Mandate for, 173, 190
government of, 43, 174–75, 182, 185, 189–90, 249, 257–58, 274, 279–88, 289, 294, 295, 301
gross domestic product (GDP) of, 175, 187
health care in, 198–99, 229–30, 258–62
houses in, 202–5, 214, 271–72
independence intifada (Cedar Revolution) in, 186–87, 189, 193, 194, 270, 279, 300
Israeli bombing of, 241–59, 262, 263, 270–76, 279
Israeli invasion of (1978), 188–89, 202
Israeli invasion of (1982), 202
Kurdish population of, 181
media coverage of, 19–20, 253–56, 259, 260, 274, 275, 280, 301–2
militias in, 18, 171, 172, 175, 188, 213, 243, 249, 280–84, 299–300; see also specific militias
minimum wage in, 175–76
monopolies in, 174–75, 176, 182
music of, 44, 200, 225–26, 228
national army of, 285–86, 289
nationalism in, 185–86, 213–14
Ottoman rule in, 164, 173, 186, 213, 309
parliament of, 185, 187, 189–90
political situation in, 176, 185–87, 189–90, 191, 193, 201–2, 210–14, 215, 223, 225, 228, 232, 273–75, 279–88, 296, 299–301, 317–19
poverty in, 230–31
propaganda in, 256–59, 270–71, 273, 279–80
refugees in, 230–31, 245–46, 249–59, 265, 270–73, 274, 279, 287
sectarian conflict in, 212–14, 223, 225, 281–84, 287–88, 308–12, 319
Shiite population of, 185, 188–89, 190, 191, 201–8, 209, 210–14, 223, 244, 246–47, 257, 273, 274–75, 281–84, 296, 308–12
social conditions in, 177–78, 243–44
southern, 188–89, 192, 212, 215, 246, 249, 260–61, 263, 296–97
Sunni population of, 190, 210–12, 223, 280–84, 285, 308–12, 319
Syrian influence in, 176, 184–87, 189, 191, 194, 201, 209, 211, 263, 299, 307, 308, 311
taxation in, 204, 280
terrorism in, 176, 183, 184–87, 191, 209, 211–12, 213, 216, 223, 257–58, 294, 296, 319
unemployment rate in, 43, 187
U.S. relations with, 185, 253, 263–65, 271, 296, 301
warlords in, 187, 190, 213, 299–300
Lebanon, Ind., 19
Leena (friend), 16, 17, 171, 225, 226, 228, 229, 256–57, 287, 294, 310
Levant, 37, 91, 119, 154, 156–58, 179
Levantine Arabic, 37, 91, 119
Lévi-Strauss, Claude, 58–59
Lewinsky, Monica, 57
Libya, 191, 202
Lina (Bazzi relative), 257, 258–59
“lizard-eaters,” 66, 67
Loghmaji, Ali, 215–16
Loghmaji, Wardeh, 215–16
Lurpak butter, 181
Lysistrata (Aristophanes), 161
Mahar fish shop, 92, 98–99
Mahatma Gandhi Street, 182, 307
Mahdi Army, 132, 133, 149, 151, 152, 318
Maher (filmmaker), 100–101, 102, 105
Mahfouz, Naguib, 35
majlis taziyeh, 200
Makdisi Street, 178, 181, 214, 230, 298–300
makdous, 45, 101, 204
Makiya, Kanan, 79
Malawi, 175
Mallat, Chibli, 211
Mallik al-Batata restaurant, 307–8
manaeesh, 243, 288–89
Manara neighborhood, 246–47
Mansour neighborhood, 62, 86
Mansur, Caliph al-, 96, 155
Marines, U.S., 185, 253, 296
Marines barracks attack (1983), 185
Maronite Christians, 188, 190, 280, 299
Marsh Arabs, The (Thesiger), 106–7
Martyrs’ Square, 185–86, 187, 191, 290, 291
Marwaheen, Lebanon, 247
mashawi, 217
masquf, 91–94, 95, 97, 98–99, 110, 123, 136, 157, 158, 318, 319
Masri, Ahmed al-, 211–12
Massaya wine, 75
mdepress, 195, 260
Mecca, 107, 224
Medicine of the Prophet, The (Chaghhayni), 90
Medina, 224
Mediterranean Feast (Wright), 227
Meir, Golda, 252
Melville, Herman, 109
Merkel, Angela, 249
Mesopotamia, 69–73, 93, 115–16, 156–57
Metawali, 213, 219
meze, 44, 157, 217, 222, 291
Middle East, 18, 65, 71, 76, 109, 111, 182, 186, 220, 224, 243, 256, 263–64, 275, 294, 295
Middle East Airlines, 245–46
mighli, 256–59, 358
milk, 248, 301
milonga, 225, 228, 316–17
mint julep, 156
mjadara hamra, 49–50, 59, 217, 260, 284, 345–48
mlukhieh, 49, 198, 207, 225, 226–27, 235–36, 274, 315–16, 320–21, 352–53
Moby-Dick (Melville), 109
Moderne Butchery, 179, 180
Mohammed, Yanar, 125
Moises (photographer), 159–60
Mongols, 74, 155–56
Monroe, Marilyn, 130–31
morels, 67
Morocco, 141–42, 172
Morrison, Jim, 82, 105
mosques, 122, 133, 137, 173, 185–86, 205, 244, 305, 306, 309
mouneh, 204, 205, 219, 220, 264, 265–66, 271
Movement of the Deprived, 201–2
Mozart Hotel, 303, 305
msabbaha, 180, 301
Mughnieh, Imad, 296
Muhammad, 39, 101
Muhammad (hotel manager), 84, 86, 96, 107, 128, 224
Munir (friend), 34, 214, 215, 225, 227, 228, 251, 262, 273–74, 310–11, 317
Musafir Hotel, 144
Mutanabbi (poet). See al-Mutanabbi.
Mutanabbi Street, 105–10, 146
Nabatieh, Lebanon, 279
Nabil restaurant, 114–15, 117–19
Naboulsi, Hussein, 254
Nahla (Bazzi aunt), 202–5, 249, 270–75
Nahlah (friend), 243
Najaf, Iraq, 48, 94, 135, 151, 152, 159, 160
Najib Ardati Street, 229, 281, 287
Nasir id-Deen, 109
Nasrallah, Nawal, 72, 85
Nasrallah, Sayyid Hassan, 155, 191, 201, 223, 246–47, 251, 253, 254, 260, 261, 274, 275, 279, 280, 282, 287, 301, 309
Nassire (friend), 108, 144–45
National Geographic, 27
National Public Radio (NPR), 305
Nebuchadnezzar, 172
Neolithic Revolution, 59, 73
Newsday, 12, 33, 48–49, 64
New York Daily News, 13
New York Times, 27
1984 (Orwell), 106
Nixon, Richard M., 19, 106, 139
Noah, 256
nomads, 59–60, 76, 95
noomi Basra, 108, 155, 156
Notes for a Study of Sectarian Cookery in Lebanon, 218
Not Without My Daughter, 295
oil-for-food program, 79
oil supplies, 63, 77, 78, 79
okra, 72, 226
olive oil, 85, 158, 217, 234, 272, 275, 288
Olmert, Ehud, 263, 264, 275
Omar, Manal, 127, 128, 130
One Thousand and One Nights, The, 55, 94, 223
onions, 267, 268
organic produce, 182, 231–32
Organization of the Petroleum Exporting Countries (OPEC), 116
Orwell, George, 106, 209
&n
bsp; Othman ibn Affan, 210
Ottoman Empire, 93, 107, 115, 116, 156, 164, 173, 186, 204, 213, 309
Oumashi, Salwa, 125, 127, 129
Pakistan, 28, 30–32, 33, 298
Palestine Hotel, 122–23
Palestinians, 158, 230
pan-Arabism, 76–77
paring knives, 74–75
Paris, 173, 261
pasta, 74–75, 152–53, 242, 306–7
pasta puttanesca, 74–75
Paula (friend), 178, 251–52, 262–63
Pearl, Daniel, 29, 298
“People of the Book,” 111
Persians, 105, 155
persimmon pudding, 67
Personal Status Law (1959), 140, 141
pesto, 16, 37
Peterson, Scott, 170
Phalange, 300
Philby, Kim, 35
Philippines, 226
pickles, 94, 156
Pigeon Rocks, 313
pigeons, 172, 236
pilafs, 155
pine nuts, 86
pita bread, 251–52
“Playboy Plotter,” 232–33
Poe, Edgar Allan, 139
Poland, 156
polygamy, 141
pomegranates, 72, 156, 204
Porthole Inn, 67
potatoes, 182, 267–69
prayer beads, 46, 135
prayer carpets, 58
Progressive Socialist Party, 311
prostitution, 27, 172, 176, 182, 307
Qaddafi, Muammar, 202
Qadisiya neighborhood, 124
Qom, Iran, 159
Quran, 96, 101, 106, 111, 134, 137–38, 140, 141, 195, 197, 200, 206