in Beirut, 21, 30–52, 121, 144, 151, 169–73, 183, 186–87, 188, 194–208, 209, 212–14, 221, 222–25, 226, 228, 233–35, 242, 280, 281–87, 294–96, 299, 300–313
birthday of, 100–101
childhood of, 17–20, 208–9, 221
family of, 17, 20, 21, 100, 199–208, 221, 255–59
as journalist, 12–13, 28–30, 33, 48–49, 64, 85, 153, 212, 214, 247, 261, 294–95
as Newsday Middle East bureau chief, 33, 48–49, 64
in New York, N.Y., 12, 13–14, 18, 20–21, 294–95, 297–98, 299, 311–12
in Pakistan, 28, 30–32, 33, 298
personality of, 11, 13, 30–32, 126, 136, 208–9, 221, 224–25, 295, 297–98
wartime experiences of, 242, 244–47, 253–59, 261, 262–63, 270–75, 281–93, 300–313, 320
Bedouins, 51, 59–60, 66, 67, 76, 77, 108, 155, 192, 230, 319
beer, 72, 73, 150–51, 318
beggars, 230–31
beheadings, 137
Beirut:
apartments in, 169, 173–77, 183, 209, 212–14, 218, 221, 223, 224–25, 228, 229–37, 249–96, 298–300, 302–13
bombings in, 176, 183, 184, 209, 294, 319
business centers of, 174–76, 177, 221–22
cafés in, 34, 43, 101, 107–10, 144–48, 171, 177, 192, 263, 320; see also specific cafés
civil war period in, 17–19, 20, 21, 171, 173, 174, 176–78, 184, 185, 187, 188, 242
Corniche of, 174, 184, 221, 236, 241–42, 248, 281, 285, 286, 310, 313
cosmopolitanism of, 33–34, 35, 43–45, 76, 171, 173–74, 188
dahiyeh area of, 188–90, 223, 231, 244, 245, 253, 257, 273, 280, 287, 312
downtown, 173–77, 185–87, 188, 191, 279–80, 289–93, 295
East, 243, 308
economy of, 102, 187, 296
farmers’ market in, 219, 231–32
food supplies in, 219, 231–32, 242–43, 264–66, 296, 301–2
French influence in, 173–74, 188
Greater, 172
Green Line of, 18, 174, 188, 287, 293
history of, 34–35, 173–274, 188
hotels in, 64–66, 68, 74, 86, 91, 158, 169, 170–73, 178, 183, 184, 218–25, 265, 287, 303; see also specific hotels
Israeli bombing of, 241–59, 262, 263, 270–76, 279
mosques of, 173, 185–86, 244, 305, 306, 309
neighborhoods of, 170–73, 177–80, 184, 243–44, 246
political demonstrations in, 279–87, 288, 292–93, 295, 302–10, 319
power outages in, 189, 242–43, 247, 248, 250, 265
redevelopment of, 173, 174–75, 270
refugees in, 249–59, 265, 287
restaurants in, 172, 184, 186, 214–18, 220, 221, 222–23, 225–28, 260, 279–80, 281, 288, 290–92, 307–8; see also specific restaurants
security situation in, 176, 183, 184, 209, 249–59, 265, 287, 289, 294, 310, 319
Shiite population of, 185, 244, 246–47, 281–84, 296, 308–12
snipers in, 174, 177, 188, 288, 302–7
Sunni population of, 280–84, 285, 308–12, 319
tent city in, 279–80, 292–93, 319
water supplies for, 189, 247, 305
West, 305
Bekaa Valley, 182, 195
Ben (radio reporter), 304–5, 307
Berkeley Hotel, 170–73, 183, 184, 218–25, 265
Berri, Nabih, 201–2
Betsy (friend), 110
bharaat, 85, 357
Bible, 49, 60, 191, 256
Bikfaya, Lebanon, 187
bin Laden, Osama, 30
Bint Jbeil, Lebanon, 189–90, 201–8, 232, 233, 249, 270–75, 293
Bishara al-Khoury Street, 253
Bliss Street, 229, 241–42
bodyguards, 114, 119, 158–59
boiled meat, 72–73
bolani kashalu, 26, 27
Boswell, James, 58–59
Bottéro, Jean, 71, 72, 73
boub alkusa, 21
“Boulevard of Death,” 13
bread, 23, 73, 85, 94, 98–99, 102, 103, 116–17, 157, 175, 177, 193, 200, 220–21 243–244, 251–52, 266, 288–89, 301–2, 305, 308, 319
bread and salt offering, 116–17
Bremer, L. Paul, 130, 161
Bristol Hotel, 222–23
brown butter nut topping, 343–44
Buddha, 27
Buddha Bar, 279–80
bulgur, 49, 50, 59, 72, 163, 205
burghul, 235, 265
burghul wa banadura, 235
Bush, George H. W., 78, 111
Bush, George W., 75, 145, 186, 193, 249, 263, 300
Byzantines, 96–97, 164
Café Younes, 171, 177, 192
Cain, 59
Cairo, 33, 76
caliphs, 94, 96–97, 128, 137, 155, 172, 210, 227
Cara (friend), 263, 316–17, 321
caramelized onions, 49, 50, 193, 268
Carver, Raymond, 239
catfish, 67, 156
Catholics, 36, 46, 112, 206, 256
Cedars Hotel, 100
censorship, 35, 106
Central Intelligence Agency (CIA), 106
Chaghhayni, Mahmud bin Mohamed al-, 90
Chalabi, Ahmed, 140
Chandler, Raymond, 192
Chechnya, 300, 301
cheese, 312–13
Chez André, 33–34
chicken, 26–27, 30, 67, 71, 72, 73, 149, 158, 200, 235–36, 248, 320–21, 344–45
chicken kebabs, 26–27, 30, 158
chicken roulade, 149
Chicken Soup for the Soul, 109
chicken stew, 72
chicken stock, 344–45
chicken tandoori, 73
chickpeas, 65, 179, 180
Chidiac, May, 209
Child, Julia, 71
Childe, Gordon, 59
Children of the Alley (Mahfouz), 35
Christians, 18, 22–23, 36, 41–42, 88, 93, 111, 113, 126, 145, 157, 162, 188, 189, 190, 191, 199, 209, 211, 212, 224, 276, 280, 299, 300
Christian Science Monitor, 125, 144, 169–70
Christmas, 256–59, 280, 295–96
Ciezadlo, Annia:
in Amman, 51, 55–57
apartments of, 229–37, 294–96, 298–300, 302–13
in Baghdad, 47, 55–165, 169, 176, 224, 247, 302, 319, 320
in Beirut, 33–52, 121, 151, 169–320
birthday of, 100–101
birth of, 19
in Bloomington, Ind., 19, 21–22, 25, 215
in Brooklyn, N.Y., 28
in Buffalo, N.Y., 25, 65
in Chicago, Ill., 15, 16–17, 19, 24, 25, 42, 121
childhood of, 19, 21–25, 35
as Christian Science Monitor reporter, 125, 144, 169–70
in Clayton, Mo., 112
as cook, 218–21, 223, 228, 234–37, 260, 266–69, 306–7, 315–16, 320–21
education of, 23–24, 25
as freelance reporter, 47, 64, 169–70, 247, 260–61, 294–95, 297–98
in Ganado, Ariz., 22
Greek background of, 14, 16–17, 160–61, 315
homesickness of, 90–91, 121, 297
honeymoon of, 60–61, 64, 87–88, 100–101
hotels as residences of, 64–66, 68, 74, 86, 91, 158, 169, 170–73, 183, 184, 218–25, 265
as journalist, 12, 46, 47, 64, 75–76, 85, 103, 110–21, 125, 144, 153, 169–70, 247, 260–61, 264, 294–95, 297–98
Karbala visited by, 125–31
as magazine editor, 38–39
marriage of, 35–36, 46–47, 48, 50–52, 87–88, 144, 152–53, 169–70, 194–98, 212–14, 221, 223, 228, 235, 237, 247–48, 257, 262–63, 293, 294–95, 297–98, 299, 311–12, 316
in New York, N.Y., 12, 13–14, 17, 25, 26–27, 28, 294–95, 297–98, 311–12, 315–21
in Overland Park, Kans., 23
personality of, 11, 13, 30, 32, 35–36, 224–25, 293, 297–98, 306
–7
in San Francisco, Calif., 22–23, 35
in St. Louis, Mo., 23–24
wartime experiences of, 153–54, 169–70, 176, 183, 184, 185, 194–95, 241–76, 279, 281–95, 297–98, 300–313, 320
Clinton, Hillary Rodham, 141
Clouds, The (Aristophanes), 161
Club Social, 274
Coalition Provisional Authority (CPA), 117, 118, 127
coffee, 143, 174, 200, 206, 213, 235–36, 316–17
Cold War, 27, 35
Commodore Hotel, 178
Communism, 75, 77, 100, 102, 120, 209, 300
Connie (author’s great aunt), 153
cornbread, 67
Corniche, 174, 184, 221, 236, 241–42, 248, 281, 285, 286, 310, 313
Corniche al-Mazraa, 287
Cruelty and Silence (Makiya), 79
Crusades, 172
curry, 156
Cyprus, 42
Czechoslovakia, 77
Dabbous, Rabih, 281, 288
Damascus, 128, 213, 282, 296
date palms, 63–64, 90
dates, 85, 94, 277
David, Elizabeth, 24, 71
Death in Beirut (Awwad), 167
Deb (radio reporter), 305–6, 307
Delights from the Garden of Eden (Nasrallah), 72
De re coquinaria (Apicius), 70–71
deviled eggs, 86–87
Didion, Joan, 192
Diogenes, 112
divorce, 76, 87, 222
dolma, 156, 162–63, 164
Dos Passos, John, 109
dowries, 196–97
Druze militias, 213, 227, 299–300
Economist, 35
Egg Basket, 86
eggplants, 45, 74, 182
eggs, 266–69
Egypt, 154, 172, 191, 226, 227, 247
Eido, Walid, 294
Elamites, 71, 154
Elwi, Laila, 57
emmer, 72
English language, 20, 36, 43, 81, 82–83, 100, 106–7, 118, 134, 156, 162, 200, 214, 220, 228, 230, 233, 248, 262, 264, 291, 321
Enkidu, 69–70, 150
Esau, 49, 59
escabeche, 156
Euphrates River, 59, 73, 128
exclusive agency laws, 182
Exodus, Book of, 191
Fairbanks, Douglas, 62
Fairouz, 101
Faisal (translator), 114, 119
Faisal I, King of Iraq, 107
“faithfulness campaign,” 137–38, 141
falafels, 85, 129, 179
fallaheen, 202, 231, 232
Fallujah, Iraq, 94, 132, 135, 145, 147, 149
“family sections,” 95–96
Fannie Farmer, 71
faqirah, 40–41
Faqmah ice cream shop, 104
farmers’ markets, 21–22, 219, 231–32, 320
farro, 72
Farsi language, 128, 156
fatayer, 220
Fatfat, Ahmad, 287
fatiha, 206
Fatih Kashif al-Ghitta, Sheikh, 133–36, 137, 138–39, 140, 158–61, 221, 222–23, 317
Fatima (refugee), 250
Fatimid caliphs, 172, 227
fatteh, 181, 312
fattet hummus, 180, 301, 338–39
fattoush, 37, 49, 64–65, 157, 158, 203, 204, 207, 320, 329–30
fava beans, 179, 335–37
fawal, 179–81, 301, 318
Feast: Why Humans Share Food (Jones), 59
Federal Bureau of Investigation (FBI), 296
fennel, 193, 320
Fertile Crescent, 59, 68
fesenjoon, 128, 129, 156, 159
Few Things I Know About Glafkos Thrassakis, The (Vassilikos), 33
Field, Sally, 295
figs, 74
Firdous Square, 82, 122, 132, 133
firni, 30
fish, 27, 30, 57, 91–94, 95, 97–99, 110, 123, 136, 156, 157, 158, 159, 160, 318, 319
fish kebab, 27, 30
flatbread, 193
flour, 78, 251–52, 266
food:
agriculture and, 59–60, 73, 77, 78, 156, 182, 218–20, 231–32
civilization based on, 16, 58–61, 154–58, 164–65
as cuisine, 15–17, 59, 70–71, 86, 155, 221, 223–25, 229, 266–69, 271–72
diplomacy and, 112–15
geography and, 94–95, 178, 231
home and, 90–91, 256–59, 297, 316–17, 320–21
hospitality and, 60–61, 220–21
Iraqi, 56, 62–68, 147–49, 154–57, 163–65
Lebanese, 11, 20, 21, 26–27, 66, 67, 84, 158, 163, 179–80, 218–28, 234–37, 266–69, 291, 315–16, 320–21
markets for, 21–22, 96–97, 219, 231–32, 320
midwestern, 67, 158
nomadic, 59–60
politics and, 189, 257–58, 280
rations of, 56, 243–44, 272–73
recipes for, 15, 70–71, 164–65, 218–21, 266–68, 320–21, 329–58
social, 154, 215–21, 256–59, 321
tribal customs and, 66, 67, 111–12
in wartime, 242–55, 288, 301–2, 303, 306–7, 316–17, 319–20
Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), 78–79
Food Heritage Foundation, 218
Forbes, 175
foul akhdar, 217
foul mdamas, 179–81, 301, 318, 335–37
France, 173–74, 188, 190, 191–92, 295, 296
freekeh dajaj, 49, 217, 220, 284, 341–43
Free Patriotic Movement, 280
French language, 186, 200, 201, 220, 228, 261–62
Frogs, The (Aristophanes), 161
furn, 243, 288–89, 301–2
Future Movement, 211–12, 280–87, 288, 299, 307, 311
Future TV, 179, 184, 307
Gabriel (angel), 101
garlic, 192–93, 272
gasoline, 63, 249
Gemayel, Bashir, 187, 213
Genghis Khan, 155
Georges (friend), 225–28, 274, 294, 321
Georgetown University, 142
Germany, 153, 249
Ghalayini, Ziad (casualty), 308–10, 312, 313
ghanouj, 215, 314
Ghazi, King of Iraq, 107–8
Ghobeireh intersection, 245
Gilgamesh, 69–72, 73, 150–51, 319
Gillerman, Dan, 275
God, 47, 60–61, 101, 107, 198
Goldwasser, Ehud, 253
Governing Council, 133, 145, 147
grape leaves, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 21, 26, 216, 266
grapes, 266
Great Britain, 51, 55, 107–8, 111, 115–16, 156
Great Depression, 15, 317
Greco-Turkish War, 14
Greece, 14, 16–17, 32, 77, 156, 160–61, 315
Greek Orthodox Christians, 256
green garlic, 192–93
greengrocers, 181–82, 192, 231–32, 242–43, 309
Green Line, 18, 174, 188, 287, 293
Green Zone, 64, 110, 114, 115, 123, 127, 162
Gropius, Walter, 76
gross domestic product (GDP), 175, 187
Gula, Sharbat, 27
Gulf War, 62, 66–67, 80, 137
Habib’s restaurant, 12–13
Habiby, Emile, 277
hadarah, 76
hadiths, 141
Hajar, Basim al-, 82
Hajj, 195
hajjis, 231, 232, 290, 293
Hajj Naji (Bazzi relative), 39, 40, 41, 42–43, 46, 194, 195–96, 200, 249, 273
Hajj Salim, 306, 308
hakawati, 174
Hakim, Ayatollah Muhammad Baqir al-, 48
Hakim, Caliph al-, 227
Halabja poison gas attack (1988), 79
Halutz, Dan, 244, 250
Hamed, Basim, 82
Hammurabi, 81
Hamra Hotel, 64–66, 68, 74, 84, 86, 91, 158, 169
Hamra neighborhood, 170–73, 177, 178, 179–80, 183, 214, 215, 216, 229, 230–31, 274, 281, 298, 301, 302–3, 307, 308, 312, 319
&nb
sp; Hamra Street, 170, 172, 183, 281, 298, 307
hamudh, 108
Hanf, Theodor, 287–88
Harder They Fall, The (Schulberg), 109–10
Haret Hreik neighborhood, 244, 250, 253–59, 265
Hariri, Rafik, 174–75, 182, 184–87, 191, 209, 211–12, 213, 216, 257–58
Hariri, Saad, 211–12
Harrison, Jim, xi
hashishet al-bahar, 219–20
Hassan, 192–93
Hassan, Margaret, 170
Hassan Ajami café, 107
Hassoun al-Khafaji, Salama, 136
Haussmann, Georges-Eugène, 173
Hawi, George, 209
Hawza al-Ilmiya, 138
hawzas, 137, 138, 139, 161
Hayat (Arabic teacher), 229, 241, 242, 266
Hays Market, 67
Hayy al-Jamia neighborhood, 139
Hazem (reporter), 100–101, 102, 105, 170
Healthy Basket market, 231–32, 301
Hebrew University, 191
Herodotus, 53, 94, 158
Hezbollah, 185, 189, 191, 201, 202, 209, 213, 223, 241, 244, 246–47, 249–51, 253–55, 259, 262, 263, 270, 273, 274, 275, 279–87, 292–93, 295, 300, 301, 302–10, 319
hijab, 40, 126–27, 128, 136, 139, 162, 293
hindbeh, 217
Hinkle’s Hamburgers, 25
Histories (Herodotus), 53
History of Islamic Societies, A (Lapidus), 141
Holiday Inn, 173
Holland, Fern, 125, 127, 129, 130
How Nancy Wished That Everything Was an April Fool’s Joke, 300
Huda (Bazzi cousin), 33, 43, 44
Hulagu, 74, 155
Humbaba, 150