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    Roumeli

    Page 27
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      Moslems, 10, 45, 105–6, 140, 159

      Mudros, 184

      Murray, John (publisher), 167, 177

      Mycenae, 240

      Mykonos, 197

      Naoussa, 211, 241

      Navarino, 174, 181, 240

      Navpaktos, 191, 211, 218, 240

      Naxos, 197, 241

      Nemea, 241

      Neopatras, 89

      New York, 22

      Nicodemus (monk), 95

      Nicolson, Sir Harold (author of Byron: The Last Journey), 178

      Nicosia, 240

      Oeta, Mount, 238, 251

      Olympus, Mount, 22, 70, 76, 154, 210, 240

      Omonia, 239

      Orliáko (bridge), 54

      Ossa, Mount, 22, 70, 195, 241

      Othrys, Mount, 89

      Ottoman Empire, 5, 35, 50, 99, 107, 131, 134, 145, 155, 171

      Ourosh, Symeon, 90

      Oxya, Mount, 220

      Palaeologi Dynasty, 82, 83, 89–90, 98, 113, 190–1; Andronicus, 98; John V and VII, 83, 89; John Ourosh, 82–3, 90; Thomas, 191

      Palamas (poet), 153–4, 156, 224

      Pamisos, 241

      Paramythia, 196, 240

      Parga, 66, 159, 180

      Parilia (shepherd festival), 41

      Parnassus, Mount, 240

      Paros, 195, 242

      Patisia, 239

      Patmos, 241

      Patras, 188, 190–1, 197, 240

      Paul V, Pope, 191

      Paxos, 241

      Pelion, Mount, 70, 77, 196, 241

      Peloponnese, 34, 133, 159, 190–2, 196, 251

      Peltekis, Yanni, 7

      Peneios River, 70, 90, 95, 99

      Pericles, 68–9, 104, 111, 121

      Perista, 211, 213, 215–6

      Persia and Persians, 105–6, 113, 238

      Petro, Barba, 15, 18, 35, 190, 245

      Petro, Uncle George, 19, 23–4, 27, 29–35, 245

      Phaleron, New, and Old, 239

      Pharsala, 197

      Pheraios, Rigas (poet), 155

      Phocas, Nicephorus, 141

      Pholegandros, 242

      Pindus Mountains, 9, 19, 22, 37, 65, 70–2, 76, 91, 133, 159, 163, 180, 192, 196, 202, 237

      Piraeus, 125, 188, 230, 239

      Pius II, Pope, 191

      Plaka, 239

      Platanos, 206, 212–13, 215

      Plethon, Gemistus, 105

      Podolia, 229

      Poland, 228–9

      Pontus, 77, 144, 238

      Poros, 34, 241

      Prealoumbos, General, 90

      Preveza, 19, 48, 157, 160, 180, 241

      Propontis, 237

      Proussos Gorge, 42

      Psara, 240

      Psychiko, 239

      Pyrrhus, 37, 160, 237

      Quennell, Peter, 178

      Ragusa, 196

      Ravenna, 25, 238

      Rayner, Joan, 76

      Retimo, 134, 145

      Rhodes, 56, 241

      Rhodope Mountains, 9–10, 12, 18, 31, 133, 239

      Rizani, 61

      Rodocanaki, Tanty, 184–5

      Rome and Romans, 37, 40, 104–6, 110, 155, 190–1, 201–2

      Romios and Romiosyne, 106, 108–10, 112, 115, 118, 120, 130, 132, 153, 155–6; A History of Romiosyne, 153

      Roussanou (see St. Barbara)

      Rüm, 105–6, 238

      Rumania and Rumanians, 34, 78, 201–2, 219, 228; language, 19, 32, 88, 229, 246, 248

      Russia and Russians, 64, 74, 78, 95, 201, 229, 231–2, 234–6, 248; cities and rivers, 95, 230; language, 64, 74, 248; Russo–Japanese War, 231

      St. Agapios, 83

      St. Anais, 82

      St. Andrew, 190–1

      St. Athanasios the Meteorite, 42, 88–92; monastery, 88, 90

      St. Barbara or Roussanou (convent), 86, 93, 95

      St. Barlaam (monastery), 71–2, 75, 77, 79–80, 82, 86–8, 91–3, 95, 100–2

      St. Basil, 46, 77, 84

      St. Benedict, 77

      St. Bruno, 77

      St. Catherine (monastery), 78

      St. Charalambos (church), 97

      St. Constantine, 41, 94

      St. Daniel the Stylites, 83

      St. Demetrios of Thessalonika, 41, 80–82

      St. Dionysius of Karditza, 76

      St. Ephraim of Syria, 84

      St. George, 40–1, 49, 82, 184, 231

      St. Gideon of Tyrnavos, 76

      St. Govdelaas, 82

      St. Gregory Nazianzen, 84

      St. Hilarion, 240

      St. Ioasaph, 90

      St. Ivan of Rila (monastery), 78

      St. Jerome, 72, 152

      St. John Chrysostom, 84

      St. John the Baptist, 42, 100

      St. John the Divine, 84

      St. Lazarus, 48, 51

      St. Nectarios, 82

      St. Nicholas (monastery), 94–5

      St. Nicolas of Metsovo, 84

      St. Pacomius, 77

      St. Paraskev, 41

      St. Procopios, 82

      St. Romuald, 77

      St. Sophia (mosque), 106, 110, 121

      St. Spiridion, 175

      St. Stephen (monastery and church), 83, 86, 96–7, 99, 101, 231

      St. Theodore, 41

      St. Theophanes, 82

      St. Wandrille, 99

      Salento, 238

      Salonica, 56, 89, 196, 239

      Samarina, 202, 241

      Samos, 103, 240

      Samothrace, 242

      Santorin, 241

      Sappho (poet), 238

      Sarakatsáns (nomads), 8–14, 17–19, 21–3, 27–9, 31–40, 42–4, 46, 50–1, 54, 56, 60–1, 67–9, 245–7; I Sarakatsáni, 39–40, 60

      Saraketsi, 245

      Saranta Ekklesies (forty churches), 18

      Sayiaxis, I. (writer), 246

      Sedgwick, Roxani and Shan, 153

      Seferis (poet), 132, 224

      Selino, 136

      Serbia and Serbes, 10, 89, 90–1, 155, 201, 228

      Seriphos, 242

      Siberia, 231

      Sicily, 54, 238–46

      Sikaráyia, 11–13, 66–7

      Sinai, Mount, 78, 152, 237

      Siphnos, 195, 242

      Skaphiadis, B. (writer), 246

      Skopelos, 241

      Skyros, 184, 242

      Slavs, 34, 37, 99, 143, 201–3; language, 106, 201–3, 246, 250

      Smyrna, 68

      Solomos (poet), 171, 214

      Sotiriadis, George, 153

      Souli, 22, 67, 155, 159, 179, 180, 197, 240

      Souphlí, 13

      Soustas, Aramandios, 178

      Sparta, 240

      Spercheios River, 242

      Spetsai, 196

      Sphakia, 22, 136

      Sporades, 241

      Stagoi (skete), 88, 100

      Stathatos, Peter, 54

      Stilo, 238

      Strophades, 242

      Struma (or Strymon), 54, 56, 241

      Stylos (mountain), 89

      Suleiman the Magnificent, 91

      Sunium, 125, 240

      Symplegades, 237

      Syra, 197

      Syrako (Vlach village), 19, 245

      Syria, 84, 239

      Taenarus, Cape, 242

      Tamburlaine, 99, 135

      Tempe, Valley of, 22, 241

      Tenedos, 239

      Thasos, 242

      Thebes, 162, 240

      Theotokas, George, 107

      Thesprotian Mountains, 61, 66, 159

      Thessaly and Thessalians, 19, 32, 37, 65, 70–1, 76–7, 82, 90, 95–7, 99, 105, 133, 196, 197, 202, 241

      Thomaïs (princess), 90

      Thrace and Thracians, 7, 10, 12, 16, 17, 37, 54, 56, 67, 133, 144, 238

      Tinos, 195, 242

      Tivoli, 191

      Transfiguration (monastery), 72, 86, 89–91, 97, 100, 102

      Trebizond, 144, 230, 238

      Triballes (Serbs), 89

      Trikkala, 84, 88, 90, 99, 240

      Tripoli, 240

      Troy, 10, 37, 99, 217, 239

      Tsakonia, 196

      Turkey and Turks, 7, 10, 18, 21–2,
    25, 34–5, 40, 45, 50, 68, 78, 84–5, 89–91, 97, 99, 104–8, 110, 113, 118, 131, 134, 143, 145, 147, 155, 158, 162, 164, 173, 179, 185, 187, 190, 202, 213, 245–6, 248, 251

      Tyrnavos, 76, 197, 221, 240

      Tzakonia, 133, 214; dialect, 214

      Tzoumerka, 22, 241

      Ukraine, 230, 232

      Ürgüb (rock monasteries), 10

      Veli Pasha (son of Ali Pasha), 76

      Venice and Venetians, 134, 144, 147, 164, 176, 197, 214

      Venizelos, 56, 69, 78–9, 138

      Vichou (gorge), 65

      Vitza, 62, 65

      Vlachoyannis, I. (writer), 246

      Vlachs (Koutzovlachs), 9, 19, 32–5, 65, 67, 71, 99, 201–2, 245; Vlach language, 201–2, 241, 248

      Volo, Gulf of, 5, 197, 239

      Vonorta, 215, 219

      Wallachia and Wallachians, 32, 88, 107

      War of Independence, 5, 19, 20, 50, 68, 113, 179, 181, 218

      Wentworth, Baroness (née Blunt), 165–70, 173, 178; Arabian stud, 165–6, 168–70; Crabbet Park, 165, 168, 171, 173, 176; family of, 165

      White Mountains, 135, 138, 210, 238

      World Wars I and II, 5, 140, 181

      Yanina, 21, 24, 42, 62, 65–6, 70, 76, 82, 84–5, 159, 174, 180, 196, 240

      Yanni, 61, 193

      Yassy, 229

      Yürüks (nomads), 10

      Zagora Mountains, 18, 62, 65, 67, 133, 192

      Zagorochória, 64, 66, 196

      Zalacosta, 19

      Zalongo, 159, 240

      Zante and Zantiots, 159, 163, 174, 197, 241

      Zitza (monastery), 159, 162, 180

      THIS IS A NEW YORK REVIEW BOOK

      PUBLISHED BY THE NEW YORK REVIEW OF BOOKS

      435 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014

      www.nyrb.com

      Copyright © 1966 by Patrick Leigh Fermor

      Introduction copyright © 2006 by Patricia Storace

      All rights reserved.

      Cover image: Patrick Leigh Fermor

      Cover design: Katy Homans

      Dedication page drawing and map by John Craxton

      First published in Great Britain in 1966 by John Murray, Publishers

      The Library of Congress has cataloged the earlier printing as follows:

      Fermor, Patrick Leigh.

      Roumeli : travels in northern Greece / Patrick Leigh Fermor ; introduction by Patricia Storace.

      p. cm. — (New York Review Books classics)

      Originally published: New York : Harper & Row, 1966.

      ISBN 1-59017-187-x (alk. paper)

      I. Greece—Description and travel. I. Title. II. Series.

      DF727.F4 2006

      914.95'70474—dc22

      2005022664

      eISBN 978-1-59017-520-0

      v1.0

      For a complete list of books in the NYRB Classics series, visit www.nyrb.com or write to:

      Catalog Requests, NYRB, 435 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014

     

     

     



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