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    On the Makaloa Mat and Island Tales

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      He turned to me a weary and sceptical eye, saying:

      "And if I die to-morrow, not alone will the lawyers contest my

      disposition of my property, but they will contest my benefactions

      and my pensions accorded, and the clarity of my mind.

      "It was the right weather of the year; but even then, with our old

      weak ones at the paddles, we did not attempt the landing until we

      had assembled half the population of Ponuloo Valley down on the

      steep little beach. Then we counted our waves, selected the best

      one, and ran in on it. Of course, the canoe was swamped and the

      outrigger smashed, but the ones on shore dragged us up unharmed

      beyond the wash.

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      65

      "Ahuna gave his orders. In the night-time all must remain within

      their houses, and the dogs be tied up and have their jaws bound so

      that there should be no barking. And in the night-time Ahuna and I

      stole out on our journey, no one knowing whether we went to the

      right or left or up the valley toward its head. We carried jerky,

      and hard poi and dried aku, and from the quantity of the food I

      knew we were to be gone several days. Such a trail! A Jacob's

      ladder to the sky, truly, for that first pali" (precipice), "almost

      straight up, was three thousand feet above the sea. And we did it

      in the dark!

      "At the top, beyond the sight of the valley we had left, we slept

      until daylight on the hard rock in a hollow nook Ahuna knew, and

      that was so small that we were squeezed. And the old fellow, for

      fear that I might move in the heavy restlessness of lad's sleep,

      lay on the outside with one arm resting across me. At daybreak, I

      saw why. Between us and the lip of the cliff scarcely a yard

      intervened. I crawled to the lip and looked, watching the abyss

      take on immensity in the growing light and trembling from the fear

      of height that was upon me. At last I made out the sea, over half

      a mile straight beneath. And we had done this thing in the dark!

      "Down in the next valley, which was a very tiny one, we found

      evidence of the ancient population, but there were no people. The

      only way was the crazy foot-paths up and down the dizzy valley

      walls from valley to valley. But lean and aged as Ahuna was, he

      seemed untirable. In the second valley dwelt an old leper in

      hiding. He did not know me, and when Ahuna told him who I was, he

      grovelled at my feet, almost clasping them, and mumbled a mele of

      all my line out of a lipless mouth.

      "The next valley proved to be the valley. It was long and so

      narrow that its floor had caught not sufficient space of soil to

      grow taro for a single person. Also, it had no beach, the stream

      that threaded it leaping a pali of several hundred feet down to the

      sea. It was a god-forsaken place of naked, eroded lava, to which

      only rarely could the scant vegetation find root-hold. For miles

      we followed up that winding fissure through the towering walls, far

      into the chaos of back country that lies behind the Iron-bound

      Coast. How far that valley penetrated I do not know, but, from the

      quantity of water in the stream, I judged it far. We did not go to

      the valley's head. I could see Ahuna casting glances to all the

      peaks, and I knew he was taking bearings, known to him alone, from

      natural objects. When he halted at the last, it was with abrupt

      certainty. His bearings had crossed. He threw down the portion of

      food and outfit he had carried. It was the place. I looked on

      either hand at the hard, implacable walls, naked of vegetation, and

      could dream of no burial-place possible in such bare adamant.

      "We ate, then stripped for work. Only did Ahuna permit me to

      retain my shoes. He stood beside me at the edge of a deep pool,

      likewise apparelled and prodigiously skinny.

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      "'You will dive down into the pool at this spot,' he said. 'Search

      the rock with your hands as you descend, and, about a fathom and a

      half down, you will find a hole. Enter it, head-first, but going

      slowly, for the lava rock is sharp and may cut your head and body.'

      "'And then?' I queried. 'You will find the hole growing larger,'

      was his answer. 'When you have gone all of eight fathoms along the

      passage, come up slowly, and you will find your head in the air,

      above water, in the dark. Wait there then for me. The water is

      very cold.'

      "It didn't sound good to me. I was thinking, not of the cold water

      and the dark, but of the bones. 'You go first,' I said. But he

      claimed he could not. 'You are my alii, my prince,' he said. 'It

      is impossible that I should go before you into the sacred burial-

      place of your kingly ancestors.'

      "But the prospect did not please. 'Just cut out this prince

      stuff,' I told him. 'It isn't what it's cracked up to be. You go

      first, and I'll never tell on you.' 'Not alone the living must we

      please,' he admonished, 'but, more so, the dead must we please.

      Nor can we lie to the dead.'

      "We argued it out, and for half an hour it was stalemate. I

      wouldn't, and he simply couldn't. He tried to buck me up by

      appealing to my pride. He chanted the heroic deeds of my

      ancestors; and, I remember especially, he sang to me of Mokomoku,

      my great-grandfather and the gigantic father of the gigantic

      Kaaukuu, telling how thrice in battle Mokomoku leaped among his

      foes, seizing by the neck a warrior in either hand and knocking

      their heads together until they were dead. But this was not what

      decided me. I really felt sorry for old Ahuna, he was so beside

      himself for fear the expedition would come to naught. And I was

      coming to a great admiration for the old fellow, not least among

      the reasons being the fact of his lying down to sleep between me

      and the cliff-lip.

      "So, with true alii-authority of command, saying, 'You will

      immediately follow after me,' I dived in. Everything he had said

      was correct. I found the entrance to the subterranean passage,

      swam carefully through it, cutting my shoulder once on the lava-

      sharp roof, and emerged in the darkness and air. But before I

      could count thirty, he broke water beside me, rested his hand on my

      arm to make sure of me, and directed me to swim ahead of him for

      the matter of a hundred feet or so. Then we touched bottom and

      climbed out on the rocks. And still no light, and I remember I was

      glad that our altitude was too high for centipedes.

      "He had brought with him a coconut calabash, tightly stoppered, of

      whale-oil that must have been landed on Lahaina beach thirty years

      before. From his mouth he took a water-tight arrangement of a

      matchbox composed of two empty rifle-cartridges fitted snugly

      On the Makaloa Mat/Island Tales

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      67

      together. He lighted the wicking that floated on the oil, and I

      looked about, and knew disappointment. No burial-chamber was it,


      but merely a lava tube such as occurs on all the islands.

      "He put the calabash of light into my hands and started me ahead of

      him on the way, which he assured me was long, but not too long. It

      was long, at least a mile in my sober judgment, though at the time

      it seemed five miles; and it ascended sharply. When Ahuna, at the

      last, stopped me, I knew we were close to our goal. He knelt on

      his lean old knees on the sharp lava rock, and clasped my knees

      with his skinny arms. My hand that was free of the calabash lamp

      he placed on his head. He chanted to me, with his old cracked,

      quavering voice, the line of my descent and my essential high alii-

      ness. And then he said:

      "'Tell neither Kanau nor Hiwilani aught of what you are about to

      behold. There is no sacredness in Kanau. His mind is filled with

      sugar and the breeding of horses. I do know that he sold a feather

      cloak his grandfather had worn to that English collector for eight

      thousand dollars, and the money he lost the next day betting on the

      polo game between Maui and Oahu. Hiwilani, your mother, is filled

      with sacredness. She is too much filled with sacredness. She

      grows old, and weak-headed, and she traffics over-much with

      sorceries.'

      "'No,' I made answer. 'I shall tell no one. If I did, then would

      I have to return to this place again. And I do not want ever to

      return to this place. I'll try anything once. This I shall never

      try twice.'

      "'It is well,' he said, and arose, falling behind so that I should

      enter first. Also, he said: 'Your mother is old. I shall bring

      her, as promised, the bones of her mother and of her grandfather.

      These should content her until she dies; and then, if I die before

      her, it is you who must see to it that all the bones in her family

      collection are placed in the Royal Mausoleum.'

      "I have given all the Islands' museums the once-over," Prince Akuli

      lapsed back into slang, "and I must say that the totality of the

      collections cannot touch what I saw in our Lakanaii burial-cave.

      Remember, and with reason and history, we trace back the highest

      and oldest genealogy in the Islands. Everything that I had ever

      dreamed or heard of, and much more that I had not, was there. The

      place was wonderful. Ahuna, sepulchrally muttering prayers and

      meles, moved about, lighting various whale-oil lamp-calabashes.

      They were all there, the Hawaiian race from the beginning of

      Hawaiian time. Bundles of bones and bundles of bones, all wrapped

      decently in tapa, until for all the world it was like the parcels-

      post department at a post office.

      "And everything! Kahilis, which you may know developed out of the

      fly-flapper into symbols of royalty until they became larger than

      hearse-plumes with handles a fathom and a half and over two fathoms

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      in length. And such handles! Of the wood of the kauila, inlaid

      with shell and ivory and bone with a cleverness that had died out

      among our artificers a century before. It was a centuries-old

      family attic. For the first time I saw things I had only heard of,

      such as the pahoas, fashioned of whale-teeth and suspended by

      braided human hair, and worn on the breast only by the highest of

      rank.

      "There were tapes and mats of the rarest and oldest; capes and leis

      and helmets and cloaks, priceless all, except the too-ancient ones,

      of the feathers of the mamo, and of the iwi and the akakane and the

      o-o. I saw one of the mamo cloaks that was superior to that finest

      one in the Bishop Museum in Honolulu, and that they value at

      between half a million and a million dollars. Goodness me, I

      thought at the time, it was lucky Kanau didn't know about it.

      "Such a mess of things! Carved gourds and calabashes, shell-

      scrapers, nets of olona fibre, a junk of ie-ie baskets, and fish-

      hooks of every bone and spoon of shell. Musical instruments of the

      forgotten days--ukukes and nose flutes, and kiokios which are

      likewise played with one unstoppered nostril. Taboo poi bowls and

      finger bowls, left-handed adzes of the canoe gods, lava-cup lamps,

      stone mortars and pestles and poi-pounders. And adzes again, a

      myriad of them, beautiful ones, from an ounce in weight for the

      finer carving of idols to fifteen pounds for the felling of trees,

      and all with the sweetest handles I have ever beheld.

      "There were the kaekeekes--you know, our ancient drums, hollowed

      sections of the coconut tree, covered one end with shark-skin. The

      first kaekeeke of all Hawaii Ahuna pointed out to me and told me

      the tale. It was manifestly most ancient. He was afraid to touch

      it for fear the age-rotted wood of it would crumble to dust, the

      ragged tatters of the shark-skin head of it still attached. 'This

      is the very oldest and father of all our kaekeekes,' Ahuna told me.

      'Kila, the son of Moikeha, brought it back from far Raiatea in the

      South Pacific. And it was Kila's own son, Kahai, who made that

      same journey, and was gone ten years, and brought back with him

      from Tahiti the first breadfruit trees that sprouted and grew on

      Hawaiian soil.'

      "And the bones and bones! The parcel-delivery array of them!

      Besides the small bundles of the long bones, there were full

      skeletons, tapa-wrapped, lying in one-man, and two- and three-man

      canoes of precious koa wood, with curved outriggers of wiliwili

      wood, and proper paddles to hand with the io-projection at the

      point simulating the continuance of the handle, as if, like a

      skewer, thrust through the flat length of the blade. And their war

      weapons were laid away by the sides of the lifeless bones that had

      wielded them--rusty old horse-pistols, derringers, pepper-boxes,

      five-barrelled fantastiques, Kentucky long riffles, muskets handled

      in trade by John Company and Hudson's Bay, shark-tooth swords,

      wooden stabbing-knives, arrows and spears bone-headed of the fish

      and the pig and of man, and spears and arrows wooden-headed and

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      69

      fire-hardened.

      "Ahuna put a spear in my hand, headed and pointed finely with the

      long shin-bone of a man, and told me the tale of it. But first he

      unwrapped the long bones, arms, and legs, of two parcels, the

      bones, under the wrappings, neatly tied like so many faggots.

      'This,' said Ahuna, exhibiting the pitiful white contents of one

      parcel, 'is Laulani. She was the wife of Akaiko, whose bones, now

      placed in your hands, much larger and male-like as you observe,

      held up the flesh of a large man, a three-hundred pounder seven-

      footer, three centuries agone. And this spear-head is made of the

      shin-bone of Keola, a mighty wrestler and runner of their own time

      and place. And he loved Laulani, and she fled with him. But in a

      forgotten battle on the sands of Kalini, Akaiko rushed the lines of

      the enemy, leading the charge that was successful, and seized upon

      Keola, his wife'
    s lover, and threw him to the ground, and sawed

      through his neck to the death with a shark-tooth knife. Thus, in

      the old days as always, did man combat for woman with man. And

      Laulani was beautiful; that Keola should be made into a spearhead

      for her! She was formed like a queen, and her body was a long bowl

      of sweetness, and her fingers lomi'd' (massaged) 'to slimness and

      smallness at her mother's breast. For ten generations have we

      remembered her beauty. Your father's singing boys to-day sing of

      her beauty in the hula that is named of her! This is Laulani, whom

      you hold in your hands.'

      "And, Ahuna done, I could but gaze, with imagination at the one

      time sobered and fired. Old drunken Howard had lent me his

      Tennyson, and I had mooned long and often over the Idyls of the

      King. Here were the three, I thought--Arthur, and Launcelot, and

      Guinevere. This, then, I pondered, was the end of it all, of life

      and strife and striving and love, the weary spirits of these long-

      gone ones to be invoked by fat old women and mangy sorcerers, the

      bones of them to be esteemed of collectors and betted on horse-

      races and ace-fulls or to be sold for cash and invested in sugar

      stocks.

      "For me it was illumination. I learned there in the burial-cave

      the great lesson. And to Ahuna I said: 'The spear headed with the

      long bone of Keola I shall take for my own. Never shall I sell it.

      I shall keep it always.'

      "'And for what purpose?' he demanded. And I replied: 'That the

      contemplation of it may keep my hand sober and my feet on earth

      with the knowledge that few men are fortunate enough to have as

      much of a remnant of themselves as will compose a spearhead when

      they are three centuries dead.'

      "And Ahuna bowed his head, and praised my wisdom of judgment. But

      at that moment the long-rotted olona-cord broke and the pitiful

      woman's bones of Laulani shed from my clasp and clattered on the

      rocky floor. One shin-bone, in some way deflected, fell under the

      dark shadow of a canoe-bow, and I made up my mind that it should be

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      70

      mine. So I hastened to help him in the picking up of the bones and

      the tying, so that he did not notice its absence.

      "'This,' said Ahuna, introducing me to another of my ancestors, 'is

     


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