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    The Wine Savant: A Guide to the New Wine Culture

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      Jordan, Ehren, 146–47

      Jorge Ordóñez, 52

      José Pastor Selections, 52

      Joseph Phelps Vineyards, 69, 98

      Judgment of Paris (1976), 14, 94–95, 96, 97, 100, 108

      Kabinett, 133, 165–66

      Kafka, Franz, 70

      Keller Wines, 139

      Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 51

      Keynes, John Maynard, 90

      Kramer, Matt, 9, 15–16, 27, 38, 107

      Krankl, Manfred, 145–46

      Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil, 25, 138

      Kurniawan, Rudy, 10

      Kutch, Jamie, 100

      Kutch Wines, 108

      Kysela Père et Fils, 53

      labels, 6, 116

      California Grand Cru on, 103–4

      grape varieties on, 49, 50

      place of origin on, 49, 50, 155

      regulation and custom pertaining to, 49–50, 65

      switching of, 13

      lactic acid, 130

      Lafite, Château, 123

      1982, 124

      Lafite-Rothschild, Château, 111

      Asian market for, 8

      fake, 10

      Lafleur, Château, 124

      1947, 164

      1982, 25

      Lafon, Dominique, 126, 145, 146–47

      Lafon Meursault-Perrieres, Domaine (Burgundy), 138

      Lagrein grape, 8, 160

      La Paulée de New York, 84, 167–68

      Lapierre, Marcel, 6, 78

      La Rioja Alta, 55

      Larmandier-Bernier Champagne, 118

      Latour, Château, 123

      gran vin of, 54

      1961, 124

      Laureau, Damien, 138

      Lebowitz, Fran, 61

      L’Eglise-Clinet, 1947, 164

      Leflaive, Domaine, 69, 120, 125

      Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet, Domaine (Burgundy), 138

      Lehman Brothers, 141

      Leonardo LoCascio/Winebow, 52

      Leroy, Domaine, 69, 124

      L’Évangile, 1947, 164

      Lewin, Benjamin, 114

      Liebfraumilch, Blue Nun, 134

      Lioco Winery, 108

      liquor:

      sales regulation of, 43–44

      wine drinking vs. drinking of, 3–4

      lobster, 90

      Loire River, 71

      London, 8, 85

      Loosen, Erni, 145

      López de Heredia, 17, 55

      Riojas, 17

      Rosé, 17

      Los Angeles Times, 45–46

      Louis/Dressner Selections, 52

      Louis Roederer, 69

      lungs, 19

      Luyt, Louis-Antoine, 6

      Lynch, Kermit, 26–27, 51

      Mackay, Jordan, 84

      Mâcon, 122, 146

      Mâcon-Lugny, 50

      Macon-Villages, 88

      Madeira, 5, 56, 168–70

      decline of, 169

      fortification of, 168–69

      Mahle, Pax, 98

      Maison Louis Jadot, 116, 122

      Maison Louis Latour, 116

      Malmsey grape, 169

      Malvasia grape, 169

      Marc de Grazia Selections, 52

      Margaux, Château, 123

      2000, 124

      Marqués de Murietta, 55

      Marqués de Riscal, 55

      Marquis d’Angerville, Domaine, 116, 125

      Martine’s Wines, 52

      Martin Ray Winery, 97

      Master Sommelier exam, 82

      Mataró grape, 161

      Matt Kramer on Wine (Kramer), 27

      Mayacamas Vineyards, 55, 108, 131

      McCarthy, Ed, 27

      Mencia, 13

      Mencia grape, 157–58

      Merlot, 4

      backlash against, 128

      Cabernet Sauvignon blended with, 111

      California, 64, 66

      French, 111, 127, 128

      Merlot grape, 66, 111, 152–53, 160

      Meursault, 84

      Meyers, Duncan Arnot, 98

      Michael Skurnik Wines, 53

      Michel Chapoutier, 69

      Michel Lafarge, Domaine, 125

      Mina, Michael, 84

      Mission Haut-Brion, Château La, 124

      1961, 25

      Moët & Chandon Champagne, 116–17

      Mollydooker, 61

      Mondavi, Robert, 66

      Mondavi, Tim, 66

      Mondavi Reserve, 96

      Monika Caha Selections, 51

      Monte Bello, Ridge, 55, 95–96, 104

      Montelena, Chateau, 55, 95–96, 104, 108, 131

      Chardonnay, 1973, 94, 129–30

      Monterey, Calif., 98

      Montille, Domaine de, 125

      Montrachet, 35, 83, 104

      Montrachet restaurant, 83

      Morgon, 78

      Moueix, Christian, 145

      Mount Eden Vineyards, 98, 131

      Mourvèdre grape, 161

      Mouton Rothschild, 94

      1945, 44

      Mouton Rothschild, Château, 123

      1947, 164

      1973, 124

      1982, 25, 162

      Mugnier, Domaine, 48, 125

      Musigny 2005, 48

      Mugnier, Frédéric, 84

      Muscadet, 13, 157

      Musigny Vineyard, 126

      Nalle Winery, 109

      natural wine movement, 75–80

      Nebbiolo grape, 63, 160

      Negroamaro grape, 153

      Neil Empson Selections, 52

      Nero d’Avola grape, 153

      New Age philosophy, 73

      New York, N.Y., 8, 72, 78, 83–84, 135

      wine drinking in, 4, 153, 156

      New York Finger Lakes region, 135

      New York Times, 14, 19

      New Zealand, 57

      wines of, 9, 33, 34, 103, 112

      Nieporent, Drew, 83

      oak, 62–65

      American, 64

      bark of, 68

      chips of, 64, 76

      flavor of, 62–65, 66, 96, 99, 129–30

      French, 63, 64, 129–30

      Limousin, 129

      new, 6, 61, 62–66, 99, 102, 107

      Slovenian, 63

      oenology, 40

      oenophilia, 4, 7, 8, 37

      accessibility of, 9

      American, 5

      defense of, 7, 12–20

      exploring the culture of, 11

      pleasures of, 31–32

      stereotypes of, 3

      wine snobbery vs., 13–15

      oenophobia, 4

      Official Guide to Wine Snobbery, The (Bernstein), 14

      Old Bridge Cellars, 51

      Olé Imports, 53

      Oregon, 168

      wines of, 9, 33, 35, 103, 112

      Outliers (Gladwell), 26

      País grape, 6

      palates, 37, 61, 79

      cleansing of, 67, 91

      evolution of, 62

      fickleness of, 45

      German, 133

      sensitive, 39

      superior, 39

      Western, 91

      Paris, 26, 49, 85, 94–95, 115, 117

      Intercontinental Hotel in, 94

      wine drinking in, 4

      Parker, Robert, 14, 16, 27, 28, 42–43, 45–47, 54, 69, 113, 134, 140

      influence of, 43, 66–67, 96, 99, 112, 147

      as polarizing figure, 61, 62, 64–65, 112

      ratings by, 100, 112, 145

      Parr, Rajat, 84–85, 100

      Pastor, José, 52, 151–52

      Paul Masson Winery, 97

      Pedralonga Wine, 135

      Petit Verdot, 111

      Pétrus, Château, 124, 145

      1947, 164

      1982, 53–54

      1989, 25

      Peynaud, Émile, 79

      Phelps Insignia, 95–96

      phenylthiocarbamide (PTC), 39–41

      phylloxera root louse, 7, 153–55

      Pickering, Gary, 40

      Pierre Gimonnet Champagne, 118

      Pierre Moncuit Champagne, 118

      Pierre Peters Champagne,
    118

      Pierre-Yves Colin Morey, Domaine, 125

      Pinon, François, 137

      Pinot Meunier grape, 117

      Pinot Noir, 4, 21, 24, 68, 100, 132

      best qualities in, 102

      California, 22, 33, 67, 84, 97–98, 102, 108, 109, 112, 146

      French, 67, 96, 110, 112–13, 127, 128

      high-alcohol, 67

      New Zealand, 33, 34, 103, 112

      Oregon, 33, 35, 84, 103, 112

      popularity of, 110, 112–13

      Sonoma, 22

      Pinot Noir grape, 8, 67, 97, 99, 100, 101, 103, 110–11, 117, 121, 136, 166

      Pithon, Jo, 138

      Pitte, Jean-Robert, 115

      Poland, 70

      Polaner Selections, 53

      Ponsot, Domaine, 125

      Port, 92

      vintage, 25, 55–56

      Portugal, 9

      Douro region of, 8

      Madeira Island, 168–69

      preservatives, 76

      Prohibition, 129, 169

      repeal of, 43

      propylthiouracil (PROP), 39–41

      Prosecco, 90

      Quinta do Noval Vintage Port Nacional, 1963, 25

      radiation poisoning, 19

      Ramonet Montrachet, 1986, 57

      Raveneau, Domaine (Chablis), 125

      Ravines Winery, 135

      Recession, Great, 4, 21, 99, 113, 141

      red wines, 30, 34, 38–39

      acidity of, 56

      aging of, 56

      Australian, 32

      California, 32, 94–95

      color in, 39

      flavinoids in, 18

      French, 32–33, 48, 67, 111, 113, 126–27

      great vintages of, 56

      health benefits of, 18–20

      Italian, 33, 35, 55

      pairing food and, 91, 92

      resveratrol in, 18–20

      Spanish, 152

      stemware for, 35

      restaurants, 81–93, 132

      BYO bottles in, 89–90

      chefs in, 81–84, 85–86

      corkage fees in, 89

      eclectic cooking trends in, 85–87

      French, 133

      high-end, 85

      ordering wine in, 36, 81–89, 90–93

      rejecting wine in, 59, 89

      tasting menus in, 86–87

      tips for a happy wine experience in, 87–89

      see also sommeliers; wine lists

      resveratrol, health benefits of, 18–20

      reverse osmosis machines, 77, 140

      Rhône, 56

      Rhône grape, 145

      Rhys Vineyards, 97, 101–3, 108, 131

      Ribolla Gialla grape, 152

      Richaud, Marcel, 106

      Ridge Vineyards, 95–96, 98, 108, 131, 145, 168

      Sonoma County Three Valleys Zinfandel, 145

      Riedel family, 35

      Riesling, 131–36, 145, 159

      acidity in, 133

      alcohol levels in, 133

      Alsatian, 92, 132, 139

      American, 108, 109, 134–35

      Austrian, 134, 135, 139

      California, 108, 109, 134

      dry, 5, 132, 133–34, 139

      Finger Lakes, 135

      German, 56, 91, 92, 132–34, 135, 139, 165–66

      off-dry, 92, 134

      popularity of, 131–32, 134

      traditional sweet, fruity, 5, 91, 132–34

      Riesling grape, 8, 131–32, 134–35, 136, 150

      Rieussec, Château, 144

      Riojas, 33, 155

      aging of, 64

      classical, 5, 17, 64

      López de Heredia, 17

      old vintages of, 55

      RN74 restaurant, 84

      Robert Kacher Selections, 51

      Robert Mondavi Winery, 66

      Roberts, Nathan Lee, 98

      Robinson, Jancis, 27, 112–13

      rodent control, 71

      Rolland, Michel, 99

      Romanée-Conti, Domaine de la, 10, 54, 64, 69, 95, 116, 121–22, 124, 140, 145, 147

      grand cru reds of, 121

      Montrachet, 121

      vineyards of, 121

      Romanée-Conti La Tâche, Domaine de la, 121

      1971, 25

      1990, 25, 162

      Romanée-Conti Le Montrachet, Domaine de la (Burgundy), 138

      Romans, ancient, 82, 159

      Rosé, López de Heredia, 17

      Rosenthal Wine Merchant, 52

      Rothschild, Baron Philippe de, 124

      Roy Cloud/Vintage ’59 Imports, 52

      Rudi Wiest Selections, 52, 134

      Rukeyser, Louis, 54

      Russian Revolution, 169

      Russian wine market, 8

      Salon (Champagne), 138

      Samuel Goldwyn Films, 82

      San Andreas Fault, 102

      Sandhi Wines, 84, 108, 131

      Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, 131

      San Francisco, Calif., 84, 97, 98, 100, 167

      wine drinking in, 4, 135, 156

      Sangiovese grape, 160

      San Sebastián, 156

      Santa Barbara International Film Festival of 2013, 82

      Santa Cruz Mountains, 96, 97–98, 101–2, 168

      Sardinia, 158

      Sauternes, 91–92, 144

      Sauvignon Blanc, 127–28

      Sauvignon Blanc grape, 127–28, 135, 136, 152–53, 157

      Savennières, 71–72, 73, 137–38

      Savio Soares Selections, 52

      Schäfer-Fröhlich Wine, 139

      Schildknecht, David, 134

      Science of Wines, The (Goode), 40

      screw caps, 57–58

      Sea Smoke Cellars, 103–4

      Seattle, Wash., 84

      Secrets of the Sommeliers (Parr and Mackay), 84

      Sercial grape, 169

      sex, erectile function and, 19

      Shanghai, 8

      Shaw, David, 45–46

      Shenzhen, 8

      Sherry, 5, 38, 56, 119

      Shiraz, 37, 91, 141

      Sicily, 51

      Sideways (film), 3–4, 97, 136

      Silesia, 70, 72

      Sine Qua Non Winery, 145–46

      60 Minutes, 18

      Slate, 11, 127–28, 141, 142, 145, 163

      Smith, Barry, 37–38

      Smith, Douglass, 73–74

      Smith, Stu, 73, 75

      Smith-Vadrone Vineyards, 109

      soil, 107

      chalky, 166

      limestone-rich, 96–98, 103

      matching grapes with, 104

      mineral-rich, 135

      qualities derived from, 102

      shallow, weathered, 101–2

      Somm (film), 82

      sommeliers, 33, 61, 81–89, 131, 135

      American, 83–84

      bad attitudes of, 88

      ceremony and élan of, 82

      dealing with, 88–89

      French, 82–83

      offering a taste to, 88

      prominence of, 81–85

      role of, 82–83, 86–87, 88

      as tastemakers, 81, 101

      South African wines, 136

      South American wines, 6–7

      Spain, 85, 135, 161

      Basque country in, 156

      Bierzo region of, 157

      Galicia region of, 51, 153–54, 156

      Rías Baixas appellation in, 156

      Ribeira Sacra region of, 157

      Ribera del Duero region of, 152

      Rioja region of, 64, 152

      Rueda appellation in, 156

      Valdeorras appellation in, 156, 157, 159

      wine importers of, 52–53, 151–52

      wines of, 4, 9, 49, 64, 74, 90, 151–58

      sparkling wines, 35, 128, 135, 137, 166

      American, 90

      food combination with, 90

      see also Champagne

      Spätlese, 133, 166

      Spiegelau stemware, 35

      spinning cones, 77

      Spottswoode Estate Vineyard and Winery, 95–96

      Spurrier, Steve, 94

      Stag
    ’s Leap Wine Cellars, 94

      Steiner, Rudolf, 69–71, 72–73, 74, 75

      homeopathic preparations of, 71, 74

      see also biodynamic viticulture

      steroids, 79

      Stone, Larry, 83

      Stony Hill Vineyard, 108, 131

      sulfur dioxide (SO2), 76, 77, 78, 120

      Summer of Riesling, 131–32

      sushi, 90, 92

      Sydney, 153

      Syrah, 67, 76, 127

      California, 97–98, 100, 108, 146

      Syrah grape, 8, 100, 152

      Taber, George, 129

      Taille aux Loups, Domaine de la, 137

      Taittinger Champagne, 116–17, 138

      tannins, 23, 31, 56, 64, 76, 160

      TAS2R38 gene, 40–41

      taste, 60, 76, 99

      bitter, 39–41

      five basic sensations of, 40

      harmony and balance of, 23, 30

      “hollow midplate,” 22

      individuality of, 37, 45

      “peacock’s tail,” 23

      salty, 40, 41

      savory (umami), 40, 41

      sour, 40, 41

      sweet, 40, 41

      see also flavor; wine tasters; wine tastings

      tasting notes, 24, 27–31

      “professional,” 29, 31

      purpose of, 30

      Tasting Pleasures (Robinson), 27

      Tatler, 29

      taverns, 15

      Taylor Wines, 56

      tectonic plates, 102

      Terrantez, 1795, 169

      Terrantez grape, 169

      Terres Dorées, Domaine des, 2007 Beaujolais l’Ancien, 154–55

      terroir concept, 18, 23, 50, 60, 67, 68, 96, 98–100, 102, 107–8, 114–15, 117–18, 121

      Terry Theise Estate Selections, 52, 134

      Theise, Terry, 51, 52, 134

      Thévenet, Jean, 106

      Time, 129

      Tokyo, 85

      tongues, 40–41

      circumvallate papillae on, 40

      foliate papillae on, 40

      fungiform papillae on, 39, 40

      taste buds of, 39

      Treixadura grape, 151

      Trimbach Winery, 132

      Riesling Clos Ste. Hune of, 25, 132, 139

      Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile of, 132, 139

      Trockenbeerenauslese Wine, 133

      Trousseau, 153

      Turley, Helen, 99

      Twitter, 61, 84

      2, 4, 6–trichloroanisole (TCA), 56

      Txakoli, 153, 156

      Tyler Winery, 108, 131

      Ulysse Collin Champagne, 118

      United States:

      ascendancy of confident and sophisticated wine drinking in, 4–5, 12–14, 16–18, 43–44, 50–51, 62, 82, 143

      beer and liquor vs. wine drinkers in, 3–4, 12, 15

      campaign finance system in, 44

      importing wines to, 50–51

      pop culture in, 12–13

      professional wine service in, 83–85

      Prohibition and Repeal in, 43, 129, 169

      regulatory alcohol law in, 43–44, 65

      social mobility in, 105

      wine consumption statistics in, 4

      Valencia, 151

      Valhalla, 55

      Vanity Fair, 10

      Vega Sicilia Winery, 155

      Verdejo grape, 8, 156, 157

      Vermentino grape, 158

      Veuve Clicquot Champagne, 116–17

      Viagra, 19

      Vias Imports, 52

      Vienna, 69

      Vieux Château Certan, 1947, 164

     


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