Sari Beach HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-751635; www.saribeachinn.com; off Jl Padma Utara; r incl breakfast from US$70; aWs)
Follow your ears down a long gang (alleyway) to the roar of the surf at this good-value beachside hotel that defines mellow. It feels like a time warp from the 1980s but is perfect for a no-frills beach holiday. The 21 rooms have patios and the best have big soaking tubs. Grassy grounds boast many little statues and water features.
Love Fashion HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-849 6688; www.lovefhotels.com; Jl Legian 121; r incl breakfast from US$100; aWs)
This gaudy hotel in the heart of the Kuta strip is an offshoot of the Fashion TV channel, featuring a design that's suitably over the top. Strut your stuff down the catwalk in the lobby, where mirrors and lighting effects are designed to make you feel like a model. There's a rooftop Jacuzzi and a bar with nightly parties.
Double-SixRESORT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730466; www.double-six.com; Double Six Beach 66; r incl breakfast from US$350; aWs)
A colossus five-star resort, Double-Six takes a leaf out of the Vegas book of extravagance. Fronted by a luxurious 120m pool, the spacious rooms all overlook the beach, and have 24-hour butlers and TVs in the bathrooms. It has several restaurants and an enormous rooftop bar.
StonesRESORT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-300 5888; www.stoneshotelbali.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; r incl breakfast from US$190; aWs)
Looming across the road from Kuta Beach, this vast resort boasts a huge pool, a vertical garden and nearly 300 rooms in five-storey blocks. The design is hip and contemporary, and high-tech features such as huge HD TVs abound. It's one of the growing number of new mega-hotels along this strip; it's affiliated with Marriott.
5Eating
There's a profusion of places to eat around Kuta and Legian. Tourist cafes, with their cheap menus of Indonesian standards, sandwiches and pizza, are ubiquitous. Look closely and you'll find genuine Balinese warungs (food stalls) tucked in amid it all.
SalekoINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Nakula 4; meals from 11,000Rp; h8am-11pm)
If you haven't tried Masakan Padang food yet, you haven't eaten proper Indonesian. Saleko is a great place to sample this simple, delicious and cheap Sumatran street food. Spicy grilled chicken and fish dare you to ladle on the volcanic sambal – not de-spiced for timid tourist palates. All dishes are halal; there's no alcohol.
Warung Asia Thai FoodASIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-742 0202; Jl Werkudara; meals from 32,000Rp; h11am-late; W)
Staffed by exceptionally friendly waiters, this popular upstairs warung serves both Indo classics and Thai fare. It gets boozy and raucous at night.
oFat ChowASIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-753516; www.fatchowbali.com; Poppies Gang II; mains from 60,000Rp; h10am-11pm; W)
A stylish, modern take on the traditional open-fronted cafe, Fat Chow serves up Asian-accented fare at long picnic tables, small tables and lounges. The food is creative, with lots of options for sharing. Among the favourites: crunchy Asian salad, pork buns, Tokyo prawns and authentic pad Thai.
Poppies RestaurantINDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-751059; www.poppiesbali.com; Poppies Gang I; mains 43,000-120,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W)
Opening its doors in 1973, Poppies was one of the first restaurants to be established in Kuta (Poppies Gang I is even named after it). It's popular for its elegant garden setting and a menu of upmarket Balinese, Western and Thai cuisine. The rijstaffel (selection of dishes served with rice) and seafood is popular.
TakeJAPANESE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-759745; Jl Patih Jelantik; meals 70,000-300,000Rp; h11am-11pm; W)
Flee Bali for a relaxed version of Tokyo just by ducking under the traditional fabric shield over the doorway at this ever-expanding restaurant. Hyper-fresh sushi, sashimi and more are prepared under the keen eyes of a team of chefs behind a long counter. The head chef is a stalwart at the Jimbaran fish market in the early hours.
Stakz Bar & GrillAUSTRALIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-762129; www.stakzbarandgrill.com; Jl Benesari; mains 40,000-140,000Rp; h8am-midnight; W)
From Vegemite on toast and a flat white for brekkie, a potato-cake roll or a meat pie in the arvo, and an Aussie burger with the lot (including beetroot, egg and pineapple) for dinner: Stakz is a good spot to sample typical Australian tucker.
MozzarellaITALIAN, SEAFOOD$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-751654; www.mozzarella-resto.com; Jl Padma Utara; meals from 100,000Rp; hnoon-11pm; W)
The best of the beachfront restaurants on Legian’s car-free strip, Mozzarella serves Italian fare that's more authentic than most. Fresh fish also features; service is rather polished and there are various open-air areas for moonlit dining, plus a more sheltered dining room.
BALI FOR KIDS
There's no shortage of fun for the kids on their Bali visit.
BEST BEACHES
Kids of all ages will get their kicks at Bali's beaches, from the surf schools at Kuta Beach to kite-flying at Sanur.
BEST WATER FUN
Play in the ocean at Nusa Lembongan, or snorkel at Pulau Menjangan. For something different, walk across the rice fields – who could resist the promise of muddy water filled with ducks, frogs and other fun critters?
BEST ADVENTURE PARKS
Kids can make like monkeys at Bali Treetop Adventure Park in Candikuning or hit the aquatic playground of Waterbom Park in Tuban.
BEST FOR ANIMALS
Take the kids to Ubud's Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, the Bali Bird Park south of Ubud, and the Elephant Safari Park north of Ubud.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Sunset on the beach (at around 6pm year-round) is the big attraction, perhaps while enjoying a drink at a cafe with a sea view or with a beer vendor on the beach. Later on, the legendary nightlife action heats up.
Sky Garden LoungeBAR, CLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.skygardenbali.com; Jl Legian 61; h24hr)
This multilevel palace of flash flirts with height restrictions from its rooftop bar where all of Kuta twinkles around you. Look for top DJs, a ground-level cafe and paparazzi-wannabes. Munchers can enjoy a long menu of bar snacks and meals, which most people pair with shots. Roam from floor to floor in this vertical playpen.
BountyCLUB
Set on a faux sailing boat amid a mini-mall of food and drink, the Bounty is a vast open-air disco that pumps all night to hip-hop, techno, house and party tracks. Foam parties, go-go dancers, drag shows and cheap shots add to the rowdiness.
Twice BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Poppies Gang II; h7pm-2am)
Where the local cool kids hang out, Twice Bar is home to Kuta’s underground music scene. It's a sweaty, dark dive that hosts local punk, indie and hardcore bands, with the occasional international act passing through. It's owned by the drummer from Balinese punk band Superman is Dead.
Infamy@The StonesLOUNGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-766100; www.thestones-kuta.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; cocktails from 85,000Rp; h11am-10pm; W)
Bring your swimming costume to enjoy Kuta's famous sunset while sipping a cocktail in a Jacuzzi at this stylish rooftop bar overlooking the ocean. There's Bintang on tap and quality food, too.
DeeJay CafeCLUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-758880; Jl Kartika Plaza 8X, Kuta Station Hotel; hmidnight-9am)
The choice for closing out the night (or starting the day). House DJs play tribal, underground, progressive, trance, electro and more. Beware of posers who set their alarms for 5am and arrive all fresh.
Double-Six RooftopBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-734300; www.doublesixrooftop.com; Double Six Beach 66; h3-11pm; W)
Sharks swimming in aquarium-lined walls, suave lounges, a commanding location and tiki torches: this ostentatious bar
above the Double-Six hotel could easily pass as a villain's lair from a Bond film. Amazing sunset views are best enjoyed from the circular booths enclosed by water – it's a minimum 1,000,000Rp spend to reserve one, but it's redeemable against food, and perfect for groups.
7Shopping
Kuta has a vast concentration of cheap, tawdry shops, as well as huge, flashy surf-gear emporiums. As you head north along Jl Legian, the quality of the shops improves, and you'll start finding cute little boutiques – especially near Jl Arjuna, which has wholesale fabric, clothing and craft stores, giving it a bazaar-like feel. Large malls are also making inroads.
Surfer GirlCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.surfer-girl.com; Jl Legian 138; h9am-10.30pm)
A local legend, this vast store for girls of all ages has a winsome logo that says it all. Clothes, gear, bikinis and plenty of other stuff in every shade of bubblegum ever made.
Luke StuderSURFBOARDS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-894 7425; www.studersurfboards.com; Jl Dewi Sri 7A; h9am-8pm)
Legendary board shaper Luke Studer works from this large and glossy shop. Shortboards, retro fishes, single fins and classic longboards are sold ready-made or custom-built.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
The streets and gang are usually safe but there are annoyances. Your biggest irritation will likely be the chaotic traffic.
Things to watch out for:
Alcohol poisoning There are ongoing reports of injuries and deaths among tourists and locals due to arak (the local booze, traditionally distilled from palm or cane sugar) being adulterated with methanol, a poisonous form of alcohol. Avoid offers of free cocktails and any offers of arak.
Surf The surf can be dangerous, with a strong current on some tides, especially up north in Legian. Lifeguards patrol swimming areas of the beaches at Kuta and Legian, indicated by red-and-yellow flags. If they say the water is too rough or unsafe to swim in, they mean it. Red flags with skull and crossbones mean no swimming allowed.
Theft Visitors lose things from unlocked (and some locked) hotel rooms and from the beach. Going into the water and leaving valuables on the beach is simply asking for trouble. Snatch-thefts by crooks on motorbikes are common. Valuable items can be left at your hotel reception.
Water pollution The sea around Kuta is commonly contaminated by run-off from both built-up areas and surrounding farmland, especially after heavy rain. Swim far away from streams, including the often foul and smelly one at Double Six Beach.
Emergency
Police StationPOLICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-751598; Jl Raya Kuta; h24hr)
Ask to speak to the tourist police.
Tourist Police PostPOLICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-784 5988; Jl Pantai Kuta; h24hr)
This is a branch of the main police station in Denpasar. It's right across from the beach; the officers have a gig that is sort of like a Balinese Baywatch.
Internet Access
Most hotels and cafes have wi-fi. The back lanes of Kuta and Legian have numerous internet spots.
Medical Services
BIMCMEDICAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-761263; www.bimcbali.com; JI Ngurah Rai 100X; h24hr)
On the bypass road just east of Kuta near the Bali Galleria shopping mall. It's a modern Australian-run clinic that can do tests, hotel visits and arrange medical evacuation. Visits can cost US$100 or more. It has a branch in Nusa Dua.
Money
ATMs abound and can be found everywhere, including in the ubiquitous Circle K and Mini Mart convenience stores.
Numerous ‘authorised’ moneychangers are efficient, open long hours and may offer good exchange rates. Be cautious, though, where the rates are markedly better than the norm. Extra fees may apply or the moneychangers may be adeptly short-changing their customers.
Post
Postal agencies that can send mail are common.
Main Post OfficePOST OFFICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-754012; Jl Selamet; h7am-2pm Mon-Thu, 7-11am Fri, 7am-1pm Sat)
On a little road east of Jl Raya Kuta, this small and efficient post office is well practised in shipping large packages.
8Getting There & Away
Bemo
Bemos (minibuses) regularly travel between Kuta and the Tegal terminal in Denpasar; the fare should be 8000Rp. The route goes from Jl Raya Kuta near Jl Pantai Kuta, looping past the beach, then on Jl Melasti and back past Bemo Corner for the trip to Denpasar.
Tourist Shuttle Bus
Perama ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-751551; www.peramatour.com; Jl Legian 39; h7am-10pm) is the main shuttle-bus operation in town, and may do hotel pick-ups and drop-offs for an extra 10,000Rp (confirm this with the staff when making arrangements). It usually has at least one bus a day to its destinations.
Destination Cost (Rp) Duration
Candidasa 75,000 3½hr
Lovina 125,000 4½hr
Padangbai 75,000 3hr
Sanur 35,000 30min
Ubud 60,000 2hr
8Getting Around
The hardest part about getting around south Bali is the traffic. Besides using taxis, you can rent a motorbike, often with a surfboard rack. One of the nicest ways to get around the area is by foot along the beach.
Seminyak & Kerobokan
Seminyak is flash, brash and arguably a bit phoney. It's also a very dynamic place, home to dozens of restaurants and a wealth of exclusive galleries, and the centre of life for hordes of the island's expats.
Seminyak seamlessly merges with Kerobokan, which is immediately north; in fact the exact border between the two is as fuzzy as most other geographic details in Bali. The many restaurants combine to give travellers the greatest choice of style and budget in Bali.
One notable landmark is the notorious Kerobokan jail ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Gunung Tangkuban Perahu), home to prisoners both infamous and unknown.
Seminyak & Kerobokan
1Sights
1Kerobokan JailF1
2Pura PetitengetA4
3Seminyak BeachA4
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Amo Beauty SpaB3
5Jari MenariE5
6Jiwa Bikram YogaB2
7PranaF6
8Sate BaliC5
9Sundari Day SpaE1
4Sleeping
10Brown FeatherC1
11Green RoomD7
12Luna2 StudiotelC6
13M Boutique HostelC2
14Mutiara BaliC4
15Ned's Hide-AwayE6
16OberoiB5
17One ElevenC3
18Raja GardensD7
19SamayaB4
20Taman Ayu CottageB2
21Villa KarisaE6
22Villa KubuF6
23W Retreat & Spa Bali – SeminyakA2
5Eating
24BarbacoaD1
25BikuB3
26Corner HouseE4
27Divine EarthE4
28Earth Cafe & MarketD4
29Fat GajahE4
30Ginger MoonC4
31Gusto Gelato & CoffeeF3
32Mama SanE4
33Motel MexicolaB4
34RevolverC4
35Rolling ForkF5
36Saigon StreetB3
37SardineD1
38SarongB2
39SisterfieldsC4
40UltimoD4
41Warung Aneka RasaD4
42Warung EnyC2
43Warung SobatA1
44Warung SulawesiC1
45Warung Taman BambuF6
46WatercressA1
6Drinking & Nightlife
Anomali CoffeeE4
47Bali JoeE6
48Ku De TaB5
49La FavelaD4
50La PlanchaC7
51Potato HeadA3
7Shopping
52AshitabaF5
53BatheB1
54BiasaF6
55Blue GlueF7
Blue Glue OutletF5
56DrifterC4
57DuztyE6
58Lucy's Ba
tikE4
59Lulu YasmineD4
60Paul RoppD4
61Periplus BookshopC4
SamsaraF5
This Is A Love SongC4
1Sights
Seminyak BeachBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Seminyak continues the long sweep of Kuta Beach. A sunset lounger and an ice-cold Bintang on the beach at sunset is simply magical. A good stretch can be found near Pura Petitenget, and it tends to be less crowded than further south in Kuta.
Fewer crowds also means that the beach is less patrolled and the water conditions less monitored. The odds of encountering dangerous rip tides and other hazards are ever-present, especially as you head north.
Pura PetitengetHINDU TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pantai Kaya Aya)F
This is an important temple and the scene of many ceremonies. It is one of a string of sea temples that stretches from Pura Luhur Ulu Watu on the Bukit Peninsula north to Pura Tanah Lot in western Bali. Petitenget loosely translates as 'magic box'; it was a treasured belonging of the legendary 16th-century priest Nirartha, who refined the Balinese religion and visited this site often.
Batubelig BeachBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Kerobokan's beach is equal to more famous beaches north and south. You can walk along the curving sands northwest towards popular spots as far as Echo Beach.