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    Lonely Planet Morocco


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      Morocco

      Contents

      Plan Your Trip

      Welcome to Morocco

      Morocco's Top 17

      Need to Know

      If You Like

      Month by Month

      Itineraries

      Morocco Outdoors

      Trekking in Morocco

      Travel with Children

      Regions at a Glance

      On The Road

      Marrakesh & Central Morocco

      Marrakesh & Central Morocco Highlights

      Marrakesh

      Around Marrakesh

      The High Atlas

      The Southern Oases

      Draa Valley

      Dades Valley & The Gorges

      Ziz Valley & The Tafilalt

      Rissani to Zagora

      Atlantic Coast

      Atlantic Coast Highlights

      Casablanca (Dar el-Baida)

      City Walk

      Rabat

      Sale

      Around Rabat & Sale

      Moulay Bousselham

      Larache

      Lixus

      Asilah

      El Jadida

      Azemmour

      Oualidia

      Safi

      Essaouira

      Around Essaouira

      Diabat

      Sidi Kaouki

      Mediterranean Coast & the Rif

      Mediterranean Coast & the Rif Highlights

      West Mediterranean Coast

      Tangier

      Cap Spartel

      Road to Ceuta

      Ceuta (Sebta)

      The Rif Mountains

      Tetouan

      Around Tetouan

      Chefchaouen

      Trekking in the Rif Mountains: Talassemtane National Park

      Oued Laou

      Targa to El-Jebha

      Al-Hoceima

      Al-Hoceima National Park

      Cala Iris & Torres de Alcala

      East Mediterranean Coast

      Melilla

      Nador

      East of Nador

      Saidia

      Berkane

      Oujda

      Fez, Meknes and the Middle Atlas

      Fez, Meknes & Middle Atlas Highlights

      Imperial Cities

      Fez

      City Walk

      Sefrou

      Bhalil

      Meknes

      Volubilis (Oualili)

      Moulay Idriss

      Middle Atlas

      Ifrane

      Azrou

      Midelt

      Around Midelt

      Taza

      Southern Morocco & Western Sahara

      Agadir

      Souss-Massa National Park

      North of Agadir

      Taroudannt

      Taliouine

      Tafraoute

      Around Tafraoute

      Ameln Valley & Jebel LKest

      Tata

      Trekking around Tafraoute

      Tiznit

      Aglou Plage

      Mirleft

      Sidi Ifni

      Around Sidi Ifni

      Goulimime

      Tan Tan & Tan Tan Plage

      Tarfaya

      Laayoune (Al-'Uyun)

      Dakhla (Ad-Dakhla)

      Understand

      Understand Morocco

      Morocco Today

      History

      A Day in the Life of Morocco

      Moroccan Cuisine

      Music

      Literature & Cinema

      Arts & Crafts

      Architecture

      Natural Wonders

      Survive

      Directory AZ

      Accommodation

      Customs Regulations

      Electricity

      Embassies & Consulates

      Gay & Lesbian Travellers

      Insurance

      Internet Access

      Language Courses

      Legal Matters

      Maps

      Money

      Opening Hours

      Photography

      Post

      Public Holidays

      Safe Travel

      Smoking

      Telephone

      Time

      Toilets

      Tourist Information

      Travellers with Disabilities

      Visas

      Volunteering

      Women Travellers

      Work

      Transport

      Getting There & Away

      Getting Around

      Health

      Before You Go

      In Morocco

      Language

      Behind the Scenes

      Our Writers

      Special Features

      Winding Lanes

      Natural Landscapes

      Welcome to Morocco

      Morocco is a gateway to Africa, and a country of dizzying diversity. Here you'll find epic mountain ranges, ancient cities, sweeping deserts – and warm hospitality.

      Mountains & Desert

      From Saharan dunes to the peaks of the High Atlas, Morocco could have been tailor-made for travellers. Lyrical landscapes carpet this slice of North Africa like the richly coloured and patterned rugs you’ll lust after in local cooperatives. The mountains – not just the famous High Atlas but also the Rif and suntanned ranges leading to Saharan oases – offer simple, breathtaking pleasures: night skies glistening in the thin air, and views over a fluffy cloudbank from the Tizi n’Test pass. On lower ground, there are rugged coastlines, waterfalls and caves in forested hills, and the mighty desert.

      Ancient Medinas

      Morocco's cities are some of the most exciting on the continent. Join the centuries-old trail of nomads and traders to their ancient hearts, from the winding medina maze of Fez to the carnivalesque street-theatre of the Djemaa el-Fna in Marrakesh. In the rocky deserts medinas are protected by kasbahs, on the coast by thick sea walls. But it's not just a heritage trip, as Morocco's cities are forward-facing too, with glitzy new urban design in Casablanca, Rabat and Tangier looking to the future as well as paying homage to their roots.

      Moroccan Activities

      Enjoying Morocco starts with nothing more strenuous than its national pastime – people-watching in a street cafe with a coffee or a mint tea. Use the opportunity to plan your next moves – hiking up North Africa’s highest peak, learning to roll couscous, camel trekking in the desert, shopping in the souqs or getting lost in the medina. Between the activities, you can sleep in boutique riads, relax on panoramic terraces and grand squares, and mop up delicately flavoured tajines – before sweating it all out in a restorative hammam.

      Traditional Life

      Morocco is a storied country, that has, over the centuries, woven its ties to Sub-Saharan Africa, Europe and the wider Middle East into whole cloth. Its mixed Arab and Berber population forms a strong national identity, but an increasingly youthful one, taking the best of its traditions and weaving the pattern anew – from the countryside to the city, from the call to prayer from the mosque to the beat of local hip hop. Morocco has a hundred faces and sounds, all ready to welcome the traveller looking for spice and adventure.

      Erg Chebbi | WESTEND61/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Why I Love Morocco

      By Paul Clammer, Writer

      In the 20-something years that I've been visiting Morocco – from travelling as a student backpacker through leading tour groups and writing travel guides to having my own front door key to a medina house – it's always the first mint tea that grounds me in the place. The ceremonial pouring and re-pouring from silver teapots. The tall glasses stuffed with viridescent leaves that scald to the touch. The impossible sweetness that would be cloying anywhere else in the world. At first, mint tea was the taste of somewhere new. Now, it's the reassurance that I'm back in a country I love. For me, there's nothing more Moroccan.


      Morocco's Top 17

      Djemaa el-Fna Street Theatre

      Circuses can’t compare to the madcap, Unesco-acclaimed halqa (street theatre) in Marrakesh’s main square. By day, ‘La Place’ draws crowds with astrologers, snake-charmers, acrobats and dentists with jars of pulled teeth. Around sunset, 100 restaurant stalls kick off the world’s most raucous grilling competition. ‘I teach Jamie Oliver everything he knows!’ brags a chef. ‘We’re number one…literally!’ jokes the cook at stall No 1. After dinner, Djemaa music jam sessions get under way – audience participation is always encouraged, and spare change ensures encores.

      Gnaoua musicians | TIM GERARD BARKER/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      Fez Medina

      The Fez medina is the maze to end all mazes. The only way to experience it is to plunge in head first, and don’t be afraid of getting lost – follow the flow of people to take you back to the main thoroughfare, or pay a small boy to show you the way. It’s an adventure into a medieval world of hidden squares, enormous studded doors and colourful souqs. Remember to look up and see intricate plasterwork, magnificent carved cedarwood and curly Arabic calligraphy, while at your feet are jewel-like mosaics.

      View to the Medina from Medersa Bou Inania | SABINO PARENTE/500PX ©

      Top Experiences

      The High Atlas

      Zaouiat Ahansal is the Chamonix of the eastern Atlas. Hemmed in by the cracked and fissured summit of Aroudane (3359m), the valley is characterised by kilometres of cliffs, soaring buttresses and dramatic slot canyons. With the arrival of a paved road in 2013, this awesome natural canvas is just beginning to attract attention. For rafters and kayakers the valley is a green jewel where rafts whip between 8ft-wide limestone walls; for climbers and trekkers the extreme topography and huge routes offer ridiculous views and a thrilling sense of wilderness.

      PHOTOGRAPHIE HG MEUNIER/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      Chefchaouen Medina

      Steep and cobbled, the Chefchaouen medina tumbles down the mountainside in a shower of red roofs, wrought-iron balconies and geraniums. The blue-washed lanes enchant, making the town a photographer's dream-come-true. You could be content for hours just people-watching over a mint tea in the cafe-packed main square, lorded over by a grand red-hued kasbah. Or amble down the riverside walk, stroll to the Spanish mosque on the hill and even venture into the surrounding Talassemtane National Park to explore the Rif Mountains.

      ZZVET/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      Life in the Palmeraies

      Until you see the vast palmeraies (palm groves) that carpet the Dadès and Ziz Valleys, you can’t fully appreciate the amazing feat of Morocco’s existence. Thick with palms and networked by communal wells and khettara (irrigation channels) the palm groves of Figuig, Ziz Valley, Tinejdad, Tinerhir and Skoura are the historical lifeblood of the Moroccan south. Even today they continue to play a vital role in oasis life, with plots beneath the shaded canopy providing a surprising bounty of barley, tomatoes, mint, pomegranates, apricots, figs and almonds sustaining generation after generation.

      Skoura palmeraie | MARKO RAZPOTNIK SEST/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Drâa Valley Kasbah Trail

      Roads now allow safe, speedy passage through the final stretches of ancient caravan routes from Mali to Marrakesh, but beyond the rocky gorges glimpsed through car windows lies the Drâa Valley of desert-traders’ dreams. The palms and cool mud-brick castles of Tamegroute, Zagora, Timidarte and Agdz must once have seemed like mirages after two months in the Sahara. Fortifications that housed gold-laden caravans are now open to overnight guests, who wake to fresh boufeggou dates, bread baked in rooftop ovens, and this realisation: speed is overrated.

      Agdz | PSYNOVEC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Tafraoute

      The Anti Atlas main town, Tafraoute has a jumble of pink houses and market streets with extraordinary surroundings. The Ameln Valley is dotted with palmeraies and Berber villages, and the looming mountains stage a twice-daily, ochre-and-amber light show. With a relatively undeveloped tourist industry, despite the region’s many charms, it’s a wonderful base for activities including mountain biking and seeking out prehistoric rock carvings. As if the granite cliffs and oases weren’t scenic enough, a Belgian artist applied his paint brush to some local boulders – with surreal results.

      MIKADUN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Surfing

      You can surf all along Morocco’s Atlantic coast, but the best place to catch waves is Taghazout. It’s clear what floats the village’s board as soon as you arrive: the usual cafes and téléboutiques are joined by surf shops, where locals and incomers wax boards and wax lyrical about the nearby beaches. On the same stretch of coast between Agadir and Essaouira, Tamraght and Sidi Kaouki are also set up for surfing; further south, Mirleft is Morocco’s newest surf destination, with an annual longboard championship.

      PATRICE SCHWARZ/500PX ©

      Top Experiences

      Anti Atlas Trekking

      A sunburned granite range leading to the Sahara, the Anti Atlas remains unexplored compared with the High Atlas. The star attraction for trekkers is the quartz massif of Jebel L’Kest, the ‘amethyst mountain’, which you can walk to through the lush Ameln Valley. More farming villages and crumbling kasbahs are found around Jebel Aklim, another of the excellent trekking possibilities in this area of blue skies and Berber shepherds. The landscape has enough variety, from palm-filled gorges to brooding, volcanic Jebel Siroua, to justify multiple treks.

      ALDO PAVAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      Sidi Ifni

      Shhh! Don’t tell your travelling friends, but this formerly Spanish seaside town, a camel ride from the Sahara, is every bit as dilapidated, breezy and magical as well-trodden Essaouira. You can walk out along the sweep of Legzira Plage, or just explore the blue-and-white backstreets of one of southern Morocco’s most alluring hang-outs. The best time to appreciate the art-deco relics – more reminiscent of Cuba than Casa – is sunset, when the Atlantic winds bend the palms and fill the air with a cooling sea mist.

      IVOHA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Essaouira

      Freshened by the endless Atlantic breeze, the old sea walls and gleaming white medina of Essaouira help make one of Morocco's most charming and laid-back destinations. There are swish riads, the freshest seafood unloaded from the small port, and a vibe that seamlessly blends an old visual arts tradition with the active sea sports that the coast here is increasingly known for. As any resident will tell you, Jimi Hendrix was a fan – and you soon will be too.

      FEDERICA GENTILE/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      Fès Festival of World Sacred Music

      With intimate concerts in mosaic-studded riads, harmonic afternoons at the Batha Museum, mesmerising Sufi Nights in a Pasha's garden and grand performances in the magnificent crenellated Bab al Makina, this festival still charms and impresses after 20 years. A love of music that engenders harmony between civilisations and religions is the cornerstone here, and you'll experience sacred music from every corner of the world: it could be Mongolian fiddles or whirling dervishes, Sufi qawwali or Persian maqām, Irish laments or African drums.

      Qawwals from the Faiz Ali Faiz ensemble | SUSANNA WYATT/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      Moulay Idriss

      Named for Morocco’s most revered saint, this little town contains his mausoleum and is one of the most important pilgrimage spots in the country. It straddles two hills and, whichever side of town you're on, the views across the green roofs and out to the rolling countryside beyond are arrestingly pretty, especially in the evening light. At the very top is Morocco’s only cylindrical minaret, which is well worth the climb, while spread at its feet are olive groves that produce a fragrantly tasty oil.

      OLUFEMI ONIPINLA/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES
    ©

      Top Experiences

      Volubilis

      Berber king Juba II, whose wife was the daughter of Antony and Cleopatra, was installed at Volubilis by the Romans. The town became a thriving farming community producing olive oil, wheat and wine for the Roman army. Stand on the basilica steps today, look out over the same fertile fields and survey his kingdom. This World Heritage site has few rules about where you can walk, little signage and lots of storks nesting on column-tops. It has some dazzling mosaics and a brand-new museum.

     


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