Nanluoguxiang see Nanluoguxiang
Xiao Ju’er (Little Chrysanthemum) Hutong 172, 173, 176, 177, 178
dumplings 225, 249–50
dust storms and pollution 205–6
education
cadre schools 131
patriotic education campaign (1989) 146
universities 102–3, 105, 122, 126, 131, 141, 153, 236
The Egg (National Centre for the Performing Arts) 204, 220–21, 222, 246
The Eight Views of Beijing 62–3
entertainment venues 246–8
eunuchs
ejected from palace by Puyi 104
Ming Dynasty 60–61, 64–5, 66, 68, 69, 72–3
Qing Dynasty 78, 81–4, 88, 89–92
Eunuchs’ Temple 63, 118
famine 126, 129, 159
Farewell My Concubine (Chen) 129, 129, 136, 150
Fayuan (Source of the Law) Temple 32, 34, 139
feng shui
Khanbalik 39–41
Republic 101–2
Zhengyangmen (Dragon’s Vein) 183
food 225–30
bars and cafés 247, 252–4
Ming Dynasty 66
restaurants 249–52
scandals 228–9
Forbidden City 62
abandonment by Yongzheng (Qing) 80
bombing 102
Concert Hall 248
construction 57–62
eunuchs’ school 64
Gate of Heavenly Purity 153, 182
Jianfu Palace (Palace of Established Happiness) 104, 166
The Last Emperor (Bertolucci) 139
lightning strikes 63
looting 94, 95, 95, 104, 110–11
marble and ceramics 59
Matteo Ricci 72–3
Palace Museum 104–5, 130–31, 210, 241
and Red Guards 130
refurbishment 133
The Rent Collection Courtyard (sculpture) 130–31
Republican era 98–100
restoration, current 155–6
River of Golden Waters 57, 183, 205
Starbucks controversy 153
Taihedian (Hall of Supreme Harmony) 58–9, 60–61, 181, 183
tourism 166, 167
principles of construction 60–61
foreign residents 47, 162–3
Fuchengmen (Coal Gate) 196
Galaxy SOHO (Hadid) 160, 222
Gang of Four 135, 136
see also Jiang Qing (wife of Mao) Gao Brothers (artists) 213
gay scene 150
Genghis Khan 38, 38
golf courses and water supply 204
Golden Tower, King Zhong’s 30, 63, 166, 219
Gong, Prince (Yixin) 234–5
Gong Wangfu (Prince’s Garden) 121, 199, 231–7, 232, 242
Fu-Jen Catholic University 236
government buildings 236
Jesuit Baroque entrance 233
Princely Mansion Museum 236, 245
Wanfuyuan (Garden of Ten Thousand Bats) 233–4
Grand Canal 31, 57
Great Leap Forward 123, 126, 198
see also Communist Party
‘Great Wall of Rubbish’ 164
Great Walls 22, 30, 31, 57, 68, 70, 70–71, 76, 133, 134, 155, 243
Guan Hanqing, Injustice Done to Dou E . . . 54
Guan Wei (artist) 214
Guanfu Museum 242
Guang’anmen, Three Millennia of Urban History monument 29, 31
Guangxu emperor 88, 89–92, 97
Guanting Reservoir 203, 204
Gui Jie (Ghost Street) 250–51
Hadamen (Chongwenmen) Gate 197
Hanlin Library 93
Heselden, Jimi 216
Heshen 231–3, 234
Hirst, Damien (artist) 214
Hortensia Isle 36–7, 45–8
fortification 78
Green Mount 45–8, 49
Imperial Cuisine 250
White Dagoba 76, 77
see also Beihai (North Lake) Park
hotels 97, 134, 138, 139, 220, 222, 240
Hou Dejian 143–6
Hu Jie, Though I am Gone 127, 129
Huang Xiang (poet) 137
Mao critique 136
Huang Yong Ping (artist) 212–13
hutong 23, 41, 42, 61–2, 65–6, 78
renaming 110, 117, 127
scarcity of historical 163, 163
hyperbuildings 216–24
Jade Spring 37, 43, 79–80, 94, 196
public water supply 202, 203
Japan
and 19th-century reform movement 89
black market, opium dens 110
boycott of Japanese goods 103
Eight-Nation Alliance, part of 94
Manchuria invasion, threat 110–13
Marco Polo Bridge incident 113
murder of envoy, Boxer Rebellion 93
Occupation 113
Puji, refuge 104
diplomatic ties 134
Sino–Japanese War 89
Jenny Lou 161–2
Jesuits
architecture 83, 83–4, 233
as imperial clock-winders 78–9, 105
see also Christians
Ji, Beijing as 29–31
Jiajing emperor 68, 126, 130
Jiang Qing (wife of Mao) 126, 135, 136, 137, 137
Jiang Wen, In the Heat of the Sun 134, 142
Jianguo Hotel 138
jiashan (artificial mountains) 36–7
Jingshan (Prospect Hill) Park 57, 182, 182, 183, 192
Jiuxianqiao (Drunken Immortal Bridge)
751 D•Park 207
798 Space gallery 207, 208–9, 213, 214, 255
electronics district 120–21
see also Chaoyang
Johnston, Reginald Fleming 103–4, 139
Jurchens (later Manchus) 36–7, 52, 73
see also Qing Dynasty
Kangxi emperor 78, 79–80, 204–5
Khanbalik (City of the Khan) 39–55
Confucian Temple 35, 50–52, 52
curfew 55
and feng shui 39–41
geometric layout 41–2
Grand Canal 43
Han Chinese, lower status 54
Hortensia Isle see Hortensia Isle imperial processions and pageantry 48–9
Jade Palace 48
Khan’s palace 43–5
as Nezha Town 53–4
plague 55
White Dagoba temple 53
Zicong (monk) 39–42, 55, 183
Khitans 32–3, 43
Khubilai Khan 39–41, 40, 43, 45–9
black jade wine vessel 81
and Confucianism 49–52
death 55
imperial appointments 54
and Tibetan Buddhism 53
Koolhaas, Rem (architect) 219–20
Kuma Kengo (architect) 222
Kunming Lake 43, 44–5
Qingyiyuan (Garden of Clear Waves) palace 84–5, 85, 86, 155
reservoir 202
Summer Palace see Summer Palace
Lake Palaces, Zhongnanhai 68, 92, 100, 111, 121–2, 133
Lama Temple (Yonghegong) 35, 80, 112, 128, 196, 198, 244
see also Buddhism
langfang sitiao (Gallery Streets) 66
language and dialect
Beijing language as court and national language 80
Beijing vernacular 63, 103, 148–9
modern-day 162
Lao She 94, 105, 126, 128, 137–8
Beneath the Red Banner 109
Dragon Beard Ditch 117
former residence 242–3
Rickshaw Boy 102, 106, 139, 203
Tea House 153
The Yellow Storm 112
Lao She Teahouse 164, 247–8
Leather Jacket Village, Nanyuan 140
Legation Quarter 87–8, 92, 93, 95–6, 99, 102, 111, 122
Li Shaohong, Dream of the Red Chamber 164
Li Xianting
212, 215
Li Yu 81
Li Zicheng 73, 76, 113, 159
Liang Congjie 153
Liang Sicheng (architect) 114–15, 119–20, 137–8, 185, 223
criticism of Communist Party 122–3, 128, 132, 154
home destroyed 167–70
Liang Sicheng Prize 168
Lin Biao 126, 131, 133
Lin Haiyin (writer) 271
Lin Huiyin (poet) 167–70
Lin Yutang 19, 167, 202
Liu Xiaobo, Nobel Peace Laureate 21, 143–6, 158
Liu Xiaodong (artist) 215
Liulichang (Glazed Tile Factory) 59, 254–5
Lu (regional cuisine) 225–6, 229–30
Lu Xun 21, 102, 188
Ma Desheng (artist) 211
Manchus see Qing Dynasty
Mandarin Hotel blaze 220, 221
Mao Dun 176
Mao Livehouse 247
Mao Zedong 103, 115, 116
assassination plot 133
Great Leap Forward 123, 126, 198
Huang Xiang (poet)’s critique 136
Memorial Hall 135, 135, 185, 192
neo-Maoists 161
portrait in Tiananmen Square 124–5, 185
subway project 198–9
urban re-planning measures 119
wife, Jiang Qing 126, 135, 136, 137, 137
see also Communist Party; Cultural Revolution
Mao’er Courtyard 240
Mao’s Last Dancer (film) 129
Marco Polo 22, 42, 43–4, 45–8
Marco Polo Bridge 37, 37, 113
May Fourth Movement 103, 103, 143, 185
former residence 243
see also Peking Opera
Mei Lanfang Grand Theatre 196, 246–7
migrant workers 151, 152, 157
Millennial Monument 154, 156, 186
Ming City Walls 36, 46, 56, 68–9, 76
Boxer Rebellion 94, 94
demolition (Communist Party) 119, 166–7
Ming Dynasty City Wall Relics Park 155
pilfered bricks 105, 132, 154
rebuilding (2004) 154
see also individual gates; Liang Sicheng
Ming Dynasty 56–73, 72
Beijing as seat of empire 57, 63
crime, dealing with 66–7, 68
diet and food 66
eunuchs 60–61, 64–5, 66, 68, 69, 72–3
Forbidden City see Forbidden City
Manchu siege 73
merchants and shopping 65–6
Mongol siege 68–9
Mongolian fashion 69
prostitution 73
religion 64–5, 67
temple fairs 66, 67
Yuan palace, burying 57
Minzhong Temple site 32, 33
Miyun reservoir 203
Mongolian hotpot 225, 226
Manfulou restaurant 249
Morrison, George Ernest 47, 93, 94–5, 101, 111
Muslim community 36
Nan Tang (Southern Cathedral) 79
Nanjing 33, 56, 62, 111
as capital 98, 110, 113
Nanluoguxiang (South Gong and Drum Street) 175, 175, 176
Pass-By Bar 177–8
as historical district 177, 178–9
see also Drum Tower neighbourhood
National Art Museum of China see China Art Gallery
National Centre for the Performing Arts (The Egg) 204, 220–21, 222, 246
National College (Guozijian) 52
national emblem 21–2
National Stadium (Bird’s Nest) 156, 216, 217, 217
Nationalist Party
civil war with Communist Party 113–14, 114
Northern Expedition 110
Sino-Japanese War (1937) 113
see also Republic
neighbourhood committees 174
Nezha (deity) 53–4, 53, 184–5, 202
Niu Jie (Ox Street) mosque 36
Nixon, Richard, Beijing visit 133–4, 133, 199
No-Names artists 211
noodles 226–7
Old Beijing Zhajiang Noodle King 249
numbers, significance of 41, 58, 60
Olympics (2008) 22, 154–7, 183, 189
air pollution reduction 157
‘Bird’s Nest’ National Stadium 156, 216, 217
heritage sites, conservation of 155–6, 178–9
Ling Long Pagoda 216–17
Opening Ceremony 156–8, 157
post-Olympics use for site 216–17
‘Water Cube’ Aquatics Centre 156, 217, 218–19
OMA (architects) 219–20
opera see Peking Opera Opium Wars 86
Opposite House hotel 222, 240
Oriental Mall, Palaeolithic remains 151
pailou (arches) destruction 119–20, 120
Palace of the Calm Sea 84
Palace Museum, Forbidden City 104–5, 130–31, 210, 241
Peace Park 101, 118
Peking duck 227–8
Da Dong Roast Duck restaurant 249
Quanjude restaurants 80, 118, 187, 191, 227–8, 227, 249
Peking Hotel 134, 138
Peking Man 26–8, 28, 155, 246
Peking Opera 81, 82, 89, 101, 128, 164, 187–8, 196, 235–7, 242
Farewell My Concubine (film) 129, 129, 136, 150
first female performers 107
as Revolutionary Model Opera 83
Peking University 102–3, 122, 141, 153
People’s Liberation Army (PLA) 143–6
Police Museum 242
Prince’s Garden see Gong Wangfu prostitution 73, 107, 112
Puyi (Xuantong emperor) 97, 98, 99, 100, 103–4
Emperor of Manchukuo 110
empress’s childhood home 176
as gardener in Botanical Gardens 125
as Henry 104
The Last Emperor (film) 139
Mao pardon 125–6
reinstatement and abdication 102
Qianlong emperor 80, 81–5, 89, 175–6, 231, 233
art collection 210
tomb looted 102
Qianmen (Front Gate) 56, 58, 99, 113, 132, 197
Capital M restaurant 251–2
cloisonné production 65, 110
Liulichang, bookstores and curio shops 188, 189
and measuring distance from Beijing 181
Qianmen Street see Qianmen Street restaurants and entertainment 187–8
Tianqiao 187–8
tourism 189–92
Qianmen Railway Station 107, 192
Qianmen Street 188
Alishan Square 190–91, 191
Capital M restaurant 192
food and entertainment 187–8
restoration 156, 164, 189
Shopping Street 189, 190
Qing drama, modern taste for 164
Qing Dynasty 76–97
Banners 76–7, 78
Boxer Rebellion 92–7, 96, 159–61
British mission to 84, 86
corruption 92
curfew 78
eunuchs 78, 81–4, 88, 89–92
Han Chinese banished 76–7
Jesuits 78–9, 105
Legation Quarter 87–8, 92, 93, 95–6, 99, 102
leisure pursuits 77
Manchu women 78, 79
merchants and shopping 80
opera 81, 82, 83, 89
Opium Wars 86
Outer City entertainments 80–81
population size 92
putonghua 80
and Republican government
see Republic
rich–poor divide and homelessness 85
Sino-Japanese War 89
telegraph links 88
temple building 81
Qinshihuang emperor 30
Quanjude (Peking duck restaurant) 80, 118, 187, 191, 227–8, 227, 249
railway stations 107, 123, 123, 151, 186, 192, 197, 199
rainfall 204, 206
Rauschenberg, Rob
ert (artist) 214
recycling 164, 164, 206
Red Gate Gallery 154, 213–14
Red Guards 126–8, 127
Bloody August 127–31
and Forbidden City 130
Four Olds eradication 130
rival factions 131
tomb vandalising 130
see also Communist Party
Red Theatre 248
Republic (from 1912) 98–111
Beiping as a tourist destination, development of 112
city decline 111–12
commerce and entertainment 101, 111–12
feng shui concerns 101–2
Han Chinese admitted to city 100–101
infrastructure improvements 101–2
Japan, Manchuria invasion 110
municipal council 101
Nationalist Party see Nationalist Party
origin of the qipao (Banner robes) 100
over-population and slums 105–6
refugees and poverty 105
rickshaw pullers 106, 107, 110
streetcars 106, 110
restaurants 249–52
see also bars and cafés
Ricci, Matteo 72–3, 79, 118, 130
site of old home 197
tomb 196
rich–poor divide 85, 105, 143, 161–2
rickshaw pullers 106, 107, 110
Ritan Park 20, 163
Chocolate nightclub 253
Ronglu 176
Sanlitun/The Village 163, 200–201
Brand New China 256
Element Fresh café 254
Megabox 248
The Village shopping 189, 255–6
see also Chaoyang
SARS epidemic 200–201
satellite towns 154
Shang dynasty 29
Shichahai (Ten Temple Lake) 185, 200–201, 201, 203, 245
Back Lake 18
Prince’s Garden see Gong Wangfu (Prince’s Garden)
Song Qingling residence 201
Taipinghu (Tranquillity Lake) 128, 202–3
Yinding (silver tael) Bridge 193, 200
Shizong emperor 36–7
shopping 65–6, 80–84, 160, 163, 177, 188–9, 190, 222, 254–6
tradesmen and pedlars, modern-day 173–4, 174
siheyuan (courtyard homes) 105–6, 108, 109, 175–6
Sino-Japanese Wars 89, 113, 196
Songzhuang 215, 216
Split House 222
Stars artist group 136, 211–12, 241
subway system 133–4, 156, 166–7, 194, 195–9, 198
Sui dynasty 31, 37
Summer Palace (Yiheyuan) 91
and Cixi see Cixi (Empress Dowager)
hotels and restaurants 240, 245, 250
Kunming Lake see Kunming Lake
Old Summer Palace see Yuanmingyuan (Old Summer Palace)
Tang dynasty 31–3
Tang Song, Dialogue 213, 215
Tao Ho (architect) 223
Tea Street, Xuanwu 256
Temple of Heaven (Tiantan) 58, 59, 68, 81, 102, 155, 192, 236, 244
lightning strike 88
Though I am Gone (Hu) 127, 129
Three Millennia of Urban History monument 29, 31
threshold rule 47
Tian Zhuangzhuang, Blue Kite 129
Tiananmen Square 58, 60, 76, 94, 244