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    Paris at the End of the World

    Page 21
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      They walked out into the morning, past Cocteau, who was still talking to his spellbound friends.

      Paris didn’t seem like a city of darkness to Archie.

      It seemed wonderful.

      Epilogue

      But . . . it never happened!” said Peter van Diemen.

      “It might have.”

      “Well, anything might have. But where’s your evidence?”

      “Cocteau was in Paris. He went to places like Le Chat Qui Fume with Morand and other friends. . . .”

      “But we don’t know that your grandfather was ever even in Paris. Let alone that he met Cocteau.”

      “I’m not saying he met him.”

      Peter’s expression showed how little he thought of such hair-splitting. “You can’t simply invent things.”

      “How do you account for his behavior then? The decision to volunteer. The fascination with Paris. The refusal to return to his wife.”

      “I don’t have an explanation. A few speculations, perhaps.”

      “Like what?”

      “Well . . .” He laid a postcard on the table. “This was in the documents you gave me.”

      The photo side showed a naked baby, facedown on a rug. I turned it over. Someone had written in a studied, looping hand, “To My Daling Dady From his Darling little daughter Stella Baxter 74 Catherine St Leichhardt June 10th 1917 Send me a big doll dad.” It was addressed simply “Private W A Baxter on active Service abroad.”

      “This must be my aunt then,” I said. “Dad’s little sister. We always called her Mary.”

      I tried to square this infant with the bulky lady who’d been a fixture of my childhood and adolescence.

      “Do you know when she was born?” van Diemen asked.

      “No idea. From the look of this card, about 1916.”

      “1917. February 6, to be precise.”

      “So?”

      “This would mean that, assuming a normal pregnancy, she was conceived in May of 1916. Archie volunteered in May 1916.”

      “Meaning . . . ?”

      “Getting your wife pregnant doesn’t suggest a man who wanted to cut all ties with his family. Quite the reverse, in fact. He would have sailed in October knowing she was expecting.”

      He sorted through the papers.

      “Another thing . . . I found this.”

      It was a smudged copy of a three-line death notice from a newspaper.

      BAXTER. June 2, 1913, at his parents’ residence, 11 Catherine-street, Leichhardt, Claude Hector Robert, dearly-loved infant son of Mr. and Mrs. Archie Baxter, aged 5 weeks. “A bud In heaven.”

      “The house number is wrong.”

      “How many Archie Baxters can there be on one street?”

      “So my grandfather lost a son, almost at birth?”

      “Not one. Three.” Another paper. “This is his death certificate. He was sixty-one. Cause of death—auricular fibrillation, myocarditis, and hypertension. And look; under ‘children of the marriage,’ it lists John, your father; Neville, your uncle; and Stella Mary, your aunt, as living and ‘3 males, deceased.’ ”

      He laid his hand on the papers.

      “You know what I see here? A man who suffered a great deal of loss. Three sons dead in infancy. From what you say, a difficult domestic situation. A job he didn’t like. I see a man with a tendency to high blood pressure; probably inclined to mood swings; not an easy man to get on with.”

      “My cousins tell me the same thing. My father too. He had to move away from home as a boy, to live with another family.”

      “Some men respond to stress and loss by remaining and accepting. Some grieve and brood. Some run away. I would guess Archie belonged to that last group. He left his father’s farm for the city. He left his wife for France . . .”

      “And when he came back, he left her again, to try running his own business.”

      “I found out something about that too. You said he made condiments? Remember the branch of your family that set up a successful business in Scotland making canned goods and preserves? Look at this.”

      It was a printout from the Wikipedia entry for the Baxter company.

      Baxters is an international food company, based in Fochabers, Moray, Scotland. It has its roots in a grocer’s shop opened by George Baxter in 1868. Baxter’s shop became known for supplying pickles and preserves in the early 20th century, when Baxter’s son and daughter-in-law began preparing their own beetroot and selling it to other grocers.

      “Pickles and preserves. Not far from condiments.”

      I remembered that someone told me Archie made very good pickled onions.

      “You think he was trying to repeat what his . . . uncle? cousin? . . . achieved?”

      “Don’t you think it’s possible?”

      “Yes, it’s possible. But what about la cité des ténèbres and San fairy ann?”

      “Things he read. Things he heard. Who knows? Every life is a mystery. Sometimes one has to embrace the inexplicable.”

      When I got home, I walked out on our terrace and looked across the roofs of Paris toward Notre Dame.

      Archie had never lived in France. But here I was, two generations later, with a French wife and daughter and an apartment in the heart of Paris—a city in which I had never meant to settle but to which I had been drawn from the other side of the world.

      Drawn by what? A gene? A fragment, lodged somewhere in the genetic record, of my grandfather’s need for another and better life in a country far from his own?

      I might never know what Archie hoped to find in Paris or what he had found here. If it was to forget his life and family, to start again as his own man, he had come to the wrong place. In the city of Cocteau and Proust, the past was as real as the present. This is a city that remembered. Far from rejecting pain, it embraced it, transformed it. I loved it for that—loved it as one preserves the memory of lost loves and remembers with nostalgia rather than regret the illusions of youth. I loved it as had Rimbaud. He spoke for all us newcomers when he wrote in “The Drunken Boat”:

      If there is one water in Europe I want, it is the

      Black cold pool where into the scented twilight

      A child squatting full of sadness, launches

      A boat as fragile as a butterfly in May.

      Acknowledgments

      Our family is typical in having preserved too little of its past. What has been saved is due to the efforts of my brother, Philip, and my sister, Virginia, without whom it would not have been possible to write this book. Thanks are also due to Robyn Lopes, my cousin on my mother’s side, for her meticulous documentation.

      In London, Mary Troath was, as always, the most creative and indefatigable of researchers. I’m grateful to Neil Hornick for the generous access to his archives and for his cordial elucidation of the complexities of British society. In Australia, Michael Caulfield was unstinting with his time, expertise, and friendship. I’m particularly grateful to the Australian War Memorial and the National Archives of Australia, Canberra, for assistance and advice. In Paris, Dr. Barbara Santich, by inviting me to her lecture at the Australian embassy in Paris, brought this book a giant step closer to fruition. Simon Gallo at the American Library in Paris kindly arranged access to its files of Stars and Stripes. Thanks to my longtime editor at HarperCollins, Peter Hubbard, and to my agent, Jonathan Lloyd. I’m also grateful to the many others at Harper who have labored on my behalf, among them: Cole Hager, Amy Baker, Cal Morgan, Milan Bozic, Julie Hersh, Fritz Metsch, Gregory Henry, and Sarah Woodruff. And to “Peter van Diemen,” as he prefers to be known, my most heartfelt thanks. Ein Gespenst ist noch wie eine Stelle, dran dein Blick mit einem Klange stößt.

      Index

      The pagination of this electronic edition does not match the edition from which it was created. To locate a specific entry, please use your e-book reader’s search tools.

      Page numbers in italics refer to illustrations.

      Adams, Franklin P., 360

      Aeneid, The (Virgil), 66

      Aeropolis (Kistemaeckers), 101
    –2, 102

      Agence Iris, 260–61, 263

      Aix-les-Bains, 247–48

      Alain-Fournier, 64

      A la Recherche du Temps Perdu (Proust), 33

      Albaret, Odilon, 207

      Albert, Prince, 175, 277

      alcohol, 152–53, 230, 306–7

      absinthe, 84, 229–30

      wine, see wine

      All Quiet on the Western Front (Remarque), 14–15, 149–51, 150

      Alsace, 45, 47–49, 48, 99, 105, 134, 143, 144, 172

      Also Sprach Zarathustra (Nietzsche), 263

      American Civil War, 25, 347, 361

      American Expeditionary Force (AEF), 160

      American Library Association, 354, 355

      American Library in Paris (ALP), 355, 359

      Americans, 313–19, 355–57, 360–61, 363

      doughboys, 42, 148, 247–48, 255, 268–69, 314, 353

      American Volunteer Corps, 158–59

      Angel of Mons, 325

      Annales des Maladies Vénériennes, 181

      années folles, les, 362

      Antoninus, 37–38

      ANZAC (Australian and New Zealand Army Corps), 30, 76

      Anzac Day, 72, 169

      apaches, 316

      Apollinaire, Guillaume, 292, 296, 298, 374

      Aragon, Louis, 296

      Armstrong, W. Watson, 191

      Arnoux, Guy, 313–14, 316

      Around the World in Eighty Days (Verne), 290

      artists, 146–47, 151

      art nouveau, 57–58, 59

      Arwr, Yr (Hedd Wyn), 303–4

      Assiette au Beurre, L’, 283, 284

      Auric, George, 292

      Austra-bloody-laise, The (Dennis), 163

      Australia, 106–7, 114, 118–19

      Australian Imperial Force (AIF), 18, 111, 167, 173, 242, 270, 271

      Australian volunteers, 163–74

      Australian War Memorial, 119, 203–4

      aviation, 100, 101–2, 102

      aviators, 285–86

      Bach, Johann Sebastian, 177

      Baïonnette, La, 146, 180, 180, 195, 196, 210, 234, 238–39, 244, 254, 264, 313–14, 315

      Balaclava, 25

      Ballets Russes, 32, 85, 217–19

      banks, 155

      Banque de France, 142

      Barbier, George, 231–32

      Barbusse, Henri, Under Fire (Le Feu), 212, 213–14

      Barney, Nathalie Clifford, 83–84

      Bateau-Lavoir, 63

      Battle of Dorking, The: Reminiscences of a Volunteer (Chesney), 101

      Baudelaire, Charles, 84, 336, 364

      Baxter, Archie, 13, 18, 38, 67–69, 71–78, 72, 75, 87, 90–91, 107–8, 110–11, 112–14, 117, 118, 163–66, 174, 185, 193, 199, 221–22, 227, 229, 300, 305, 306, 339, 345–52, 378–83

      documents on, 163–64, 202–6, 379, 380

      in London, 267–68, 270–71, 277, 279–81

      in Paris, 364–77, 378, 383

      varicose veins of, 206, 227–28, 308–9

      wedding photograph of, 108

      Baxter, James, 109–10

      Baxter, Stella Madden, 72, 73, 75, 77–78, 108, 108, 109, 110, 202

      Baxter family, 66–67, 109–10, 381

      Beach, Sylvester, 153–54

      Beach, Sylvia, 83, 154

      Beaumont, Edith de, 236, 292, 339, 340, 356

      Beaumont, Etienne de, 9–11, 12, 292, 339, 340, 356

      Beethoven, Ludwig van, 177, 182–83

      Begbie, Harold, 274

      Belgium, 181, 182, 216, 277, 323

      Bell, Clive, 330–31

      Bell, J. X., 331–32

      belle époque, la, 57

      Bellows, George, 234–35, 235

      Berlin, Irving, 71

      Binyon, Laurence, 139–40

      Birdwood, William, 272–73

      Biron, Gaston, 215

      Bismarck, Otto von, 44

      black French soldier guarding German prisoners, 346

      Black Sun Press, 154, 333

      Bleak House (Dickens), 278

      Blighty, 268

      Boer War, 24, 35, 171–72

      Bohème, La (Puccini), 82

      Bonnot gang, 63, 64

      boulevardier style, 287–88

      bouquinistes, 121–22

      “Bowman, The” (Machen), 325–26

      Boyle, Kay, 333–34

      Brancion, 122–28, 129

      Braque, Georges, 63, 297

      Breton, André, 89, 296

      Brewer, Hector, 294–95

      Bridges, Robert, 24

      Brittain, Vera, 204–5

      brocantes, 194–200

      Brooke, Rupert, 22–24, 22, 30

      Brophy, John, 20

      Brown, “Panama” Al, 32

      Bruyere, Georges, 55–56

      Bullard, Eugene, 153, 159, 285, 286

      Bulletin, The, 115

      Burrawang, 190

      cafard, 259, 263

      Cap de Bonne-Espérance, Le (Cocteau), 302, 340–43

      Carlton, Harry, 194

      Carlyon, Les, 115

      Castellane, Paul Ernest Boniface “Boni,” Marquis de, 81

      Catton Hall, 306

      Cavell, Edith, 30, 234–36, 235, 243

      Céline, Louis-Ferdinand, 282

      Ceramic, 164, 165, 167, 172, 205

      Cerne Abbas Giant, 225

      Chabanais, Le, 82–83

      Chanel, Coco, 33, 209–10

      Chaplin, Charlie, 219, 307, 356

      Charters, Jimmie, 288, 314

      Charters, John, 325

      Chauvel, Harry, 203

      Chekhov, Anton, v

      Chesney, George Tomkyns, 101

      Chinese embassy, 155–56

      Chronique Médicale, 182

      Churchill, Winston, 1, 35

      cigarettes, 230–31, 231, 360–61

      Cinderella (Perrault), 258

      Civil War, 25, 347, 361

      Clare (friend), 311–12, 320

      Clemenceau, Georges, 98

      Cocteau, Jean, 9–11, 10, 15, 29, 31–38, 42, 62, 86, 138, 143, 207, 208, 215–16, 238, 289, 290, 339, 344, 374, 377, 378, 383

      Le Cap de Bonne-Espérance, 302, 340–43

      opium addiction of, 60–61, 61

      Parade, 217–19, 289–99

      Codford, 205, 224, 225–26, 226, 228, 229

      Cody, Buffalo Bill, 316, 356

      Cohan, George M., 310

      Colette, 240

      Colonel Blimp, 30

      Conan Doyle, Arthur, 201, 321–22

      The Land of Mist, 321, 322, 328

      condoms, 199–200

      “Congo, The” (Lindsay), 357

      conscientious objectors, 275–76

      Coolidge, Calvin, 141

      Coward, Noël, 191, 221

      Cowley, Malcolm, 25–26, 35, 37, 161–62, 217

      Crane, Stephen, 7

      Crosby, Caresse, 154, 333, 335

      Crosby, Harry, 154, 332–35

      cummings, e.e., 154, 241–42, 292

      Curran, James, 166, 248–49

      Danton, Georges, 45

      Darmon, Pierre, 284

      Debussy, Claude, 57

      Denis, Saint, 323

      Dennis, C. J., 107–8, 163

      Départ des Poilus, Août, Le (Herter), 137–38, 137

      Deserted Village, The (Goldsmith), 185

      Diaghilev, Sergei, 85, 217, 219, 289, 290, 292, 296

      Dickens, Charles, 278

      Dietrich, Marlene, 234

      diggers, 114–15, 116–17, 120

      d’Indy, Vincent, 331

      Dingo Bar, 288

      Dishonored, 234

      Disney, Walt, 154

      Doctor Zhivago (Pasternak), 111

      Dos Passos, John, 154, 214

      doughboys, 42, 148, 247–48, 255, 268–69, 314, 353

      “Dreams of France” (Gellert), 174

      Dreyfus, Alfred, 43–44

      Drosso, 335

      drugs, 84–85, 336

      opium, 60–61, 61, 84, 335

      “Drunken Boat, The” (Rimbaud), 282, 383

      Dunne, John Gregory
    , 58

      Edward VII, King, 83

      Edward the Confessor, 83

      Elgar, Edward, 177

      Eliot, T. S., 92, 124

      Enormous Room, The (cummings), 154

      Entertainments National Service Association (ENSA), 308

      Esperanto, 64–65

      espionage, 179, 180–81, 180, 312, 314–16, 336–37

      Esquire, 363

      Europe, James Reese, 247, 296, 356, 358–59, 358

      Evans, Ellis, 303–4

      Exploits d’une Petite Française, Les, 291

      Fairbanks, Douglas, 216

      faiseuses des anges, 266

      Fall-In (Begbie), 274

      Falls, Charles Buckles, 353

      Farewell to Arms, A (Hemingway), 154, 238

      Farjeon, Eleanor, 113–14

      fashion, 208–14, 209, 211, 216–17, 287–88

      Feu, Le (Under Fire) (Barbusse), 212, 213–14

      Field of Dreams, 110–11

      Figaro, Le, 177

      Finnegans Wake (Joyce), 87, 333

      Fitzgerald, F. Scott, 288, 357

      Flament, Albert, 337–38

      Flanders, 19–20, 21, 38, 227

      flâneur style, 287–88

      Folies Bergère, 252–53, 294–95

      food shortages, 300–302

      Foreign Legion, 113, 153, 158, 159, 331–32

      “For the Fallen” (Binyon), 139–40

      fourbancier, 149

      Fournier, Henri-Alban, 64

      Franco-Prussian War, 25, 39, 47, 101

      Franz Ferdinand, Archduke, 103–4

      fräuleins, 178–81, 180, 314–15

      French 75, 6

      froussards, 142

      Fuchs, Leonhart, 176

      Gaines, Ruth, 330

      Gallant, Mavis, 253–54

      Gallieni, Joseph-Simon, 8, 14, 30, 49–54, 51, 152, 323

      Gallipoli, 30, 118, 272

      Gallo, Simon, 359

      gambling, 168–69, 238–39

      Gammage, Bill, 227

      Gare de l’Est, 130, 131, 133, 134, 135–37, 148

      Garros, Roland, 31, 216, 340–42, 340, 344, 375

      gas poisoning, 204–5, 305–6, 351

      Gaudier-Brzeska, Henri, 151–52

      Gay, Noel, 39

      Gellert, Leon, 173–74

      Genet, Jean, 32

      Geneviève, Saint, 323

      George, Saint, 325–26

      George V, King, 175, 277

      Germans, 146–48, 175–78, 181–82, 216, 323

     


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