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    My Famous Evening

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    has just made the sharpest possible

      left turn at a three-way stop.

      If the driver is meant to be

      the photographer himself,

      (the drive along the coast being his specific memory),

      symbolically and literally he is exiting his subject.

      The vehicle’s back lights, twin opaque red circles,

      seem to be mutely flaring.

      You can almost feel the heat cranked up

      inside, the drizzly chill of the air.

      You can almost hear, on the dashboard radio,

      Otis Redding’s rough-hewn plaintive,

      “… it’s raining in my heart.”

      Such dreams of observing—

      or living “inside”—Robert Frank’s

      Cape Breton photographs have,

      over the years, recurred quite frequently,

      nights in a row sometimes:

      a gazetteer of my sleeping hours,

      whenever I sleep in Cape Breton.

      Of this particular photograph, Christoph Ribbat,

      in the book Hold Still–Keep Going,

      writes, “… we owe it to Robert Frank’s works on Nova

      Scotia that nature was given a different visual language.

      In clear distinction to the exacting

      professional landscape photographers,

      he doesn’t treat nature

      as a space in need of aesthetic domination.

      Instead, he shows it as an uncertain

      dreamlike sphere of memory.”

      Born in Zurich, Switzerland, in 1924 to Jewish parents, Frank came to maturity during World War II. While his mother was Swiss, Frank, like his father, was a German citizen. Although relatively safe and prosperous, the family lived in fear that Hitler might invade Switzerland. (Frank became a Swiss citizen in 1945, shortly before the end of the war.) This early experience undoubtedly contributed to Frank’s tendency to observe society from a distance.

      7:00 a.m. After coffee and buttered toast,

      I was actually driving my dilapidated Datsun pick-up

      through what I call “Robert Frank Territory.”

      I continued on out along a similar headland

      in quite similar misty light

      as in “The Mail Box at the Road to Findlay Point,”

      my windshield absorbing

      the exact same hue.

      On the front seat, the map drawn for me

      by the hostel’s proprietor.

      Actually, she had drawn an insert map in pencil,

      on the official map I had purchased at the gas station.

      Anyway, there I was

      meandering toward Finlay Point.

      For years now, this is how it has been;

      on late autumn visits to Cape Breton—in my mind

      I have to work my way through

      certain of Robert Frank’s photographs

      in order to catch up to the present.

      Is this a form of life imitating art?

      I don’t know and don’t care, really.

      The mental process now seems inevitable;

      and I suppose I have come to value it

      like no other.

      12:30 p.m. Lunch in Red Shoes pub

      in Mabou (which displays pairs of red

      shoes in the window). On a napkin

      I wrote a few of Robert Frank’s

      melancholic aphorisms

      which he sometimes scrawls

      on his photographs: “Hold still—keep going,”

      “Life dances on …,”

      “Look out for hope,”

      born, it seems to me, of sorrow and hope,

      grief and reprieve from grief.

      It is a biographical fact that Mr. Frank

      and his first wife, Mary,

      lost two children, daughter Andrea in a plane accident

      and son Pablo, a different path he took.

      It is a cosmically stupid

      assertion that “time heals all”

      (it is the opposite of wisdom),

      it heals some things,

      but a certain kind of experience

      but a certain kind of experience

      exacts more pain as time passes

      simply because it has become

      so full (and tenaciously) resident

      in one’s heart and mind.

      Robert Frank has made nearly unbearable—

      and singularly incomparable—

      photographs containing the oldest,

      most fundamental human paradox,

      deepest joy and deepest sadness,

      within a single frame

      In 1970, after separating from Mary Frank, Robert Frank bought a house in Mabou, Nova Scotia, with the artist June Leaf. The raw, strong work he made there was, is, a demonstration of how far a photograph can stretch, how much it can include, once it gives up the idea of including it all, once it accepts that it isn’t going to break on through to some universal truth.

      Salman Rushdie

      The Ground Beneath Her Feet

      l p.m. I drove from Mabou to Whale Cove.

      Wind high. White caps.

      (“White horses on the sea,” as they say.)

      The horseshoe-shaped beach. The rock jetty.

      The wharf gulls vigilant

      toward the fishing schedule.

      They sight the boats

      and gather en masse

      for handouts.

      In September 1975, I lived a few weeks

      in Whale Cove while trying to recover

      from walking pneumonia.

      Since childhood I have been susceptible

      to respiratory attacks of every stripe,

      and in Whale Cove my coughing

      in the few neighboring restaurants

      and churches I frequented

      soon became legend.

      My lungs ambushed with knifing spasms.

      It must have been alarming to witness.

      I was the village’s coughing freak. (It was

      entirely understandable, but nonetheless

      humiliating, to have a child come out and ask me

      to leave church premises,

      a disturber of the peace,

      even though I’d merely stopped by to admire

      the oratory prowess of the minister, had

      in fact stood outside listening in through a

      slightly opened window.)

      All sorts of home remedies were suggested;

      I tried some to good effect.

      Dressed in winter bundling,

      I took a walk each morning,

      got exhausted in a few minutes,

      sat on a patch of beach grass, wheezing,

      dozing off, back against the wind-sculpted sand cliff,

      like a beached walrus

      taking in the sun.

      I “took the waters”

      only by looking at the cold sea.

      2 p.m. I sat in a small

      shop/restaurant, a few scattered tables,

      actually, in Whale Cove,

      and thought about the 1975 photograph

      “Andrea,”

      by Robert Frank,

      which has much writing on it,

      and a portrait of Andrea

      in its upper-left panel,

      who has the most naturally stunning smile.

      Read left to right, the next panel

      suddenly evokes, if you will,

      landscape without daughter,

      and the entire nine-paneled work

      suggests how the mind in turn

      illuminates and blanks,

      because four of the panels

      contain grainy emptiness.

      That second panel scripts a piercing

      epitaph, “for my daughter Andrea who died in

      an Airplane crash in TICAL in Guatemala

      on Dec. 23. Last year. She was 21 and she lived

      in this house and I think of Andrea every DAY.”

      The house is depicted in the centermost panel

    &nbs
    p; and again in the last panel, lower right

      in the photograph.

      Frank continued to experiment with multiple images, adding objects, notes, and scraps of paper to achieve a sense of intimacy in structure, form, and content…. In one of his most impassioned statements, Frank roughly pasted several images on cardboard, adding layers of black, peeling paint, obscuring and defacing the overall picture. It was as if he was using the surface of the photograph as a palette on which to inscribe his pain.

      Philip Brookman

      Robert Frank: Moving Out

      3:30 p.m. I drove to Chimney Corner

      and again sat by the sea.

      A seal bobbed up its head, observed me,

      swam a ways to my left, dove, surfaced again;

      it went like that for half an hour.

      Gulls, of course. Thermos of coffee.

      It appeared as if half the horizon

      was filled with rain clouds, the other half empty.

      A block of gray-black, a block of blue. The

      gray-black working surprisingly fast to the right,

      meshing into the blue.

      Wet chill wind.

      (Once, on a beach on Prince Edward Island,

      an ornithologist

      friend and I stood right where the rain ended.

      It has to end somewhere, naturally;

      it just was the oddest thing, for a few moments to be

      able to reside at that exact margin, step in and out of

      the rain at whim, like walking through a curtain.)

      In cinematic narration,

      as in literature, a “flashback,”

      of course, delays Time,

      doubles Time’s presence,

      folds the past into the present.

      Robert Frank sets up frames within frames.

      This on occasion has the effect of a “flashback.”

      The frames also isolate parts of a landscape,

      as if particular emotions—or memories—reside there.

      Sitting at Chimney Corner, I closed my eyes

      and envisioned Robert Frank’s winter collage

      constructed in Mabou, 1979, I think simply titled

      “Mabou.” It consists of six panels.

      Each panel displays an upright wooden frame.

      The first panel (read left to right), shot from below

      the house, has a big wooden frame

      inside of which is a telephone pole

      and the house itself;

      June Leaf stands just outside this frame,

      dressed in a dark overcoat, scarf, beret, gazing out.

      The second panel is a rocky snowscape with fir trees

      and a slope, partially inside a wooden frame

      (which “doubles” the geography).

      It has the word YESTERDAY

      at the bottom, by definition connoting a “flashback.”

      The next panel’s interior wooden frame holds

      nine complete or partial rectangles formed by a wire fence;

      through the surface of the complete photograph,

      through the wooden frame,

      through the wire rectangles,

      the eye finally reaches the sea and the sea’s horizon.

      It feels like a grueling journey to get to the sea,

      almost (because of the fence, I think) trespassing—

      (perhaps it is better to take in nature at a distance).

      The first panel on the second row

      exhibits a kind of sculpture—a pickax lain

      atop a chopping block—inside the upright wooden frame,

      with the sea in the background.

      What is written in this panel—FIRE TO THE SOUTH—

      might well have chronicled

      an actual event, a forest fire, maybe;

      at any rate, it takes notice of the world outside Mabou.

      The second panel in the second row contains

      only about half of a wooden frame;

      the landscape inside and outside this frame

      holds no people, and snow quilting

      the distant headland

      is starkly bright compared to the dingier snow

      of the foreground.

      In the last panel, a man (perhaps a neighbor) stands

      frozen like the Tin Man in The Wizard of Oz,

      except wearing a black jacket,

      one mittened hand clutching

      the wooden frame itself, as if holding it up—

      part of the “surface” inside this frame

      has been painted densely dark and shaped

      like a tornado or water spout,

      as if it is the immediate condition at sea.

      Across a black-streaked sky is written,

      TO THE EAST AMERICA,

      which generally locates the photograph

      geographically. Vague, almost hallucinatory

      fence posts are lined up along

      what possibly is a cliff, the sea in the background.

      I love the spaces between these fence posts,

      each which appears placed an equal distance from the next.

      The sea resides between posts.

      After ten years of intense work in filmmaking, Frank returned to still photography in the early 1970s. He fell back on his earlier method of expression for a variety of reasons. In 1972, at the instigation of Kazuhito Motomura and Toshio Hataya [two Japanese publishers], he published a very personal, retrospective examination of his life entitled The Lines of My Hand…. This book undoubtedly rekindled his interest in his past work and the process of photography in general. In addition, in 1970 Frank and June Leaf, a painter whom he would marry in 1975, bought land in Mabou, Nova Scotia, and that more isolated existence also encouraged a more solitary method of making art. But more than anything else it was the sudden death in 1974 of his twenty-year-old daughter Andrea, coupled with the earlier disappearance and presumed death of his good friend and fellow filmmaker Danny Seymour, that propelled his return to still photography…. Although he did make films that embodied his grief, still photographs became his most immediate and direct means to try “to show how it feels to be alive.”

      Sarah Greenough

      Robert Frank: Moving Out

      6 p.m., almost dark. I drove to Baddeck,

      on the St. Andrews Channel, to use

      a bathroom, purchase some cleaning solution

      for my binoculars, find a place for dinner.

      Minimal necessities and errands of an unhurried day.

      In a shop window, I saw an old Smith-Corona manual

      typewriter. It was not for sale, it was part of the

      window dressing.

      Any number of old-fashioned women’s and men’s hats

      were on display, and the ornately lettered sign

      announced hats are back!

      The entire diorama was supposed to evoke the WWII era.

      There was a poster warning loose lips sink ships.

      (An American poster, I think.)

      On the poster, a lithe woman wearing a hat

      leaned in to whisper into a man’s ear;

      he was dressed in a gray suit

      and held a swastika-headed cane behind his back.

      A schedule of troop transports floated

      in the black space at the upper right,

      as if it was the woman’s thought-balloon.

      (How had she obtained such secret information?

      She looked to be a proper woman,

      whereas he was unmistakably seedy,

      had a malevolent grimace.)

      At the bottom right, in red block lettering,

      it read: the devil has ears.

      Scrolling from the typewriter

      was a yellowed sheet of paper

      on which someone (perhaps the shop owner)

      had begun a letter. There was only the date,

      July 8, 1944,

      and the salutation, Dear Mom and Dad.

      In my Robert Frank frame-of-mind, it was

      the typewriter
    that most stood out.

      It reminded me of my favorite of his photographs,

      “FEAR—NO FEAR, Mabou, Nova Scotia, 1987”

      It is idiotic and entirely beside the point

      to use the word favorite when referring

      to an artist’s work so powerful in its range of emotion

      and subject.

      However, that is my opinion: “FEAR—NO FEAR”

      is my favorite. (I can’t get it out of my mind.)

      Toward “FEAR—NO FEAR”

      I delegate a separate (almost spiritual) consideration,

      or it could be, crudely, acquisition fever.

      “FEAR—NO FEAR” is a kind of vertical triptych.

      In each panel is a typewriter (the same manual typewriter)

      situated on a desk at a window.

      The top and bottom frames contain writing,

      not the middle.

      You can either read it top to bottom (FEAR—NO FEAR)

      or bottom to top (NO FEAR—FEAR), depending, I

      suppose, on one’s existential condition, and because such

      is life, that either could be the order

      in which a person confronts

      (or fails to) any given task or memory, on any given day.

      This has always struck me as a photograph about

      the daily working life of the artist.

      In each frame, the typewriter carriage,

      with its rolled-in piece of typing paper,

      is at different positions on the horizontal.

      A typewriter.

      A typewriter in front of a landscape.

      The romance of writing, unless one is wealthy,

      still has a utilitarian reality.

      It is how to make a living.

      It requires tools of the trade,

      including the imagination.

      Add nostalgia to the mix, because,

      as we know, the manual typewriter

      has become a relic.

      (A recording of a clacking

      manual typewriter, I’m told,

      is in the “sound archive” in Washington, D.C.)

      Looking at the Mabou pictures, I remembered these lines of Virginia Woolf: A masterpiece is not the result of a sudden inspiration but the product of a lifetime of thought.

      Salman Rushdie

      The Ground Beneath Her Feet

      9 p.m., driving back to Mabou. Clear, black sky,

      a zillion stars and a full moon.

      Taking the Bluenose ferry from Maine

      to Nova Scotia one summer, I said to a fellow

      passenger, who physically resembled Peter Lorre,

      “There’s a full moon, you’ll be able to read a book

      on deck by it.” He bet me ten dollars Canadian against.

     


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