in New York, 53–55
open marriage of, 73, 101, 102–4, 145–46
and parties, 60–61, 71–72, 73, 76, 100, 202
personal traits of, 35, 36, 56, 61, 73, 100, 166, 268
as a prince, 53, 71, 120, 215
remarriage of, 165, 268
and wealth, 51, 54
wedding of Diane and, 56–60
von Furstenberg, Ira (Egon’s sister), 36
von Furstenberg, Leon (Alex’s son), 266
von Furstenberg, Sebastian (Egon’s brother), 36
von Furstenberg, Talita (Alex’s daughter), 249, 266
von Furstenberg, Tassilo (Alex’s son), 266
von Furstenberg, Tassilo (Egon’s father), 35, 36, 38, 58, 60, 102
von Furstenberg, Tatiana (daughter), 137, 142, 170
and Antonia (daughter), 249
birth of, 69–70
Brody disease of, 119, 179
childhood of, 118–20, 144, 166
and Diane’s business, 244, 245–46, 266–67
and Diane’s cancer, 219, 221
and Diller, 136, 251, 253
and Egon, 166, 268
and Elkann, 191–92
and Leon, 222
and Lily, 18, 22, 24, 26, 119, 172–73, 180, 249–50
and Paulo, 179, 180
and school, 179–80, 186
von Furstenberg family, 5, 37, 48, 51, 60
Vreeland, Diana, 53, 64, 66, 70, 75, 146, 147, 176, 240
W
Wall Street Journal, 145
Walters, Barbara, 203
Wang, Vera, 245
Warhol, Andy, 65, 71, 90, 171, 182
anti-Semitism of, 114
catty remarks by, 110–11, 135, 138, 143, 185, 257
at parties, 53, 139, 164, 194
portraits by, 6, 114–16, 140, 142, 258, 270
Webb, David, 76
Weber, Bruce, 199
Weitz, John, 124
Welch, Raquel, 257
Weltman, Phil, 133
Wenner, Jann, 71
Wertheimer, Alain, 186
Wertheimer, Gerard, 186
White, Barry, 87
White, Edmund, 188, 189–90
White, Vanna, 223
Wilhelmina Models, 54, 169
William Morris agency, 132–33
Williams, Gigi, 50, 125–26, 128–29
Wilson, Rita, 231
Wilson, Woodrow, 117
Winehouse, Amy, 258
Winfrey, Oprah, 235, 251, 264
Wintour, Anna, 240–41
Wittamer, Myriam, 23
women:
and beauty, 97–98, 129
bisexual partners of, 136–37
business empires of, 125, 145
causes helping, 263–64
confidence of, 7, 78, 105–6
dependence of, 96, 104, 187
designers, 247
dressing to please themselves, 69, 97, 246
DVF Awards to, 5, 263–64
DVF Woman, 21, 78–79, 91, 183, 242
exploitation of, 109
feminism, 79–80, 96–97, 109, 112, 129, 147–48, 264
independent, 79, 80, 91, 174, 248, 265
liberated, 79, 146
mistress role of, 30–31
role models for, 146
sense of self, 28–29
traditional roles of, 96
wanting it all, 79–80, 187, 199, 255
working, 207
Women in the World Summit, 147
World War II, postwar fashion, 86–88
Worth, Charles Frederick, 46, 84, 243
wrap dress:
as big trend, 111, 112
creation of, 2, 106–7, 142
critical reviews of, 235–36
decline of, 151–54, 164, 205
fabric of, 48, 158, 230
“Journey of a Dress” (fortieth anniversary), 6, 257–58
popularity of, 3, 107–9, 111, 112–14, 145, 147, 154
precursors of, 111–12
prints, 27, 48–49, 94–95, 107, 113–14, 207, 230, 231, 243, 245, 254, 263
profitability of, 114, 125, 127, 140, 143, 248
relaunch of, 228–29, 230–33, 234–36, 244, 249
Silk Assets version, 211, 212, 230
variations on, 113, 207, 230–31, 249, 258, 271
in vintage shops, 228–29, 236
wrap top and skirt, 95, 105–6, 206
Wu, Jason, 143, 241
WWD (Women’s Wear Daily), 67–69, 75, 79, 83, 97, 98–99, 109, 113, 152–53, 163–64, 183, 232, 236, 245
Wyatt, Lynn, 164
Z
Zhang Huan, 270
Zinaich, Danielle, 231
Zinovoy, Sheppard, 161, 181
Zuckerman, Mort, 147, 202–4, 221, 252
Photo Section
Curls and smiles—Diane as a child.
(Courtesy of Diane von Furstenberg)
Diane, Hans, Martin, Lily and Philippe in Geneva, summer 1963.
(Courtesy of Martin Muller)
Future femme fatale—Diane in the 1960s.
(Courtesy of Martin Muller)
Climbing up—Diane in the 1960s.
(Courtesy of Martin Muller)
Diane and Egon at a party at the Venice Film Festival, 1967.
(Photograph by Countess Marina Cicogna, courtesy of Countess Marina Cicogna)
The prince and his future princess.
(Courtesy of Martin Muller)
Angelo Ferretti in Monte Carlo.
(Courtesy of Diane von Furstenberg)
Posing in DVF for Vogue—Diane and two models.
(Photograph by Marcio Madeira/Clifford Ling/Evening News/Rex USA)
Andy Warhol in a rare moment looking up to Diane—at the Urban Cowboy premier party in Dallas, 1980.
(John van Beekum/The Houston Chronicle)
Diane kicking back with friends at Studio 54.
(Ron Galella/Getty Images)
Halston and Diane at the Costume Institute show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1970.
(Larry Morris/The New York Times)
Olivier Gelbsman and Diane at a screening of Andy Warhol’s Frankenstein in New York, May 1974.
(Tim Boxer/Getty Images)
Two moguls in love—Diane and Barry.
(Photograph courtesy Daily Mail)
Getting ready for a night out with Alain.
(Courtesy of Diane von Furstenberg)
Tatiana and Alexandre attend mom’s fashion show at the Pierre Hotel in New York, 1974.
(Courtesy of Diane von Furstenberg, photograph by Ann Phillips)
Martin Muller, Diane, Alain and Lois Lehrman, publisher of the Nob Hill Gazette, at a signing for Alain’s book Piazza Carignano in San Francisco in 1986.
(Courtesy of Martin Muller)
The feline designer in her office, 1976.
(Photograph by Ara Gallant, courtesy of Diane von Furstenberg)
Lily and Hans in Lisbon, Portugal, 1970.
(Courtesy of Martin Muller)
Beating out President Gerald Ford for the Newsweek cover on March 22, 1976.
A wrap top and the first wrap dress—from a buyer’s catalog.
(Courtesy of Diane von Furstenberg)
In the beginning—an ad for a wrap top and flare skirt.
(Courtesy of Diane von Furstenberg)
The wrap redux—Alexandra von Furstenberg and her then mother-in-law.
(Steffen Thalemann)
A woman for all seasons.
(epa/Peter Foley)
About the Author
GIOIA DILIBERTO is a journalist, biographer, and novelist. She is the author of the biographies Paris Without End: The True Story of Hemingway’s First Wife, A Useful Woman: The Early Life of Jane Addams, and Debutante: The Story of Brenda Frazier and the novels I Am Madame X and The Collection. Her work has appeared in numerous publications, including the New York Times, Los Angeles Times, the Chicago Tribune, Smithsonian, and Vanity Fair, and she is a visiting lecturer in writi
ng at the Savannah College of Art and Design and DePaul University. She lives in Chicago.
Discover great authors, exclusive offers, and more at hc.com.
Also by Gioia Diliberto
NONFICTION
Paris Without End
A Useful Woman: The Early Life of Jane Addams
Debutante: The Story of Brenda Frazier
FICTION
I Am Madame X
The Collection
Credits
Cover design by Mumtaz Mustafa
Copyright
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG. Copyright © 2015 by Gioia Diliberto. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the nonexclusive, nontransferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, downloaded, decompiled, reverse-engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.
FIRST EDITION
Title page photograph © Clifford Ling/Evening News/Rex USA
ISBN 978-0-06-204122-7
EPub Edition JULY 2015 ISBN 9780062041234
1516171819OV/RRD10987654321
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