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    The Uncommercial Traveller

    Page 36
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      tool-house, summer-house, or dwelling-house, I could not discover,

      for there was nobody at home at the post-chaise when I knocked, but

      it was certainly used for something, and locked up. In the wonder

      of this discovery, I walked round and round the post-chaise many

      times, and sat down by the post-chaise, waiting for further

      elucidation. None came. At last, I made my way back to the old

      London road by the further end of the allotment-gardens, and

      consequently at a point beyond that from which I had diverged. I

      had to scramble through a hedge and down a steep bank, and I nearly

      came down a-top of a little spare man who sat breaking stones by

      the roadside.

      He stayed his hammer, and said, regarding me mysteriously through

      his dark goggles of wire:

      'Are you aware, sir, that you've been trespassing?'

      'I turned out of the way,' said I, in explanation, 'to look at that

      odd post-chaise. Do you happen to know anything about it?'

      'I know it was many a year upon the road,' said he.

      'So I supposed. Do you know to whom it belongs?'

      The stone-breaker bent his brows and goggles over his heap of

      stones, as if he were considering whether he should answer the

      question or not. Then, raising his barred eyes to my features as

      before, he said:

      'To me.'

      Being quite unprepared for the reply, I received it with a

      sufficiently awkward 'Indeed! Dear me!' Presently I added, 'Do

      you - ' I was going to say 'live there,' but it seemed so absurd a

      question, that I substituted 'live near here?'

      The stone-breaker, who had not broken a fragment since we began to

      converse, then did as follows. He raised himself by poising his

      finger on his hammer, and took his coat, on which he had been

      seated, over his arm. He then backed to an easier part of the bank

      than that by which I had come down, keeping his dark goggles

      silently upon me all the time, and then shouldered his hammer,

      suddenly turned, ascended, and was gone. His face was so small,

      and his goggles were so large, that he left me wholly uninformed as

      to his countenance; but he left me a profound impression that the

      curved legs I had seen from behind as he vanished, were the legs of

      an old postboy. It was not until then that I noticed he had been

      working by a grass-grown milestone, which looked like a tombstone

      erected over the grave of the London road.

      My dinner-hour being close at hand, I had no leisure to pursue the

      goggles or the subject then, but made my way back to the Dolphin's

      Head. In the gateway I found J. Mellows, looking at nothing, and

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      Dickens, Charles - The Uncommercial Traveller

      apparently experiencing that it failed to raise his spirits.

      'I don't care for the town,' said J. Mellows, when I complimented

      him on the sanitary advantages it may or may not possess; 'I wish I

      had never seen the town!'

      'You don't belong to it, Mr. Mellows?'

      'Belong to it!' repeated Mellows. 'If I didn't belong to a better

      style of town than this, I'd take and drown myself in a pail.' It

      then occurred to me that Mellows, having so little to do, was

      habitually thrown back on his internal resources - by which I mean

      the Dolphin's cellar.

      'What we want,' said Mellows, pulling off his hat, and making as if

      he emptied it of the last load of Disgust that had exuded from his

      brain, before he put it on again for another load; 'what we want,

      is a Branch. The Petition for the Branch Bill is in the coffeeroom.

      Would you put your name to it? Every little helps.'

      I found the document in question stretched out flat on the coffeeroom

      table by the aid of certain weights from the kitchen, and I

      gave it the additional weight of my uncommercial signature. To the

      best of my belief, I bound myself to the modest statement that

      universal traffic, happiness, prosperity, and civilisation,

      together with unbounded national triumph in competition with the

      foreigner, would infallibly flow from the Branch.

      Having achieved this constitutional feat, I asked Mr. Mellows if he

      could grace my dinner with a pint of good wine? Mr. Mellows thus

      replied.

      'If I couldn't give you a pint of good wine, I'd - there! - I'd

      take and drown myself in a pail. But I was deceived when I bought

      this business, and the stock was higgledy-piggledy, and I haven't

      yet tasted my way quite through it with a view to sorting it.

      Therefore, if you order one kind and get another, change till it

      comes right. For what,' said Mellows, unloading his hat as before,

      'what would you or any gentleman do, if you ordered one kind of

      wine and was required to drink another? Why, you'd (and naturally

      and properly, having the feelings of a gentleman), you'd take and

      drown yourself in a pail!'

      CHAPTER XXV - THE BOILED BEEF OF NEW ENGLAND

      The shabbiness of our English capital, as compared with Paris,

      Bordeaux, Frankfort, Milan, Geneva - almost any important town on

      the continent of Europe - I find very striking after an absence of

      any duration in foreign parts. London is shabby in contrast with

      Edinburgh, with Aberdeen, with Exeter, with Liverpool, with a

      bright little town like Bury St. Edmunds. London is shabby in

      contrast with New York, with Boston, with Philadelphia. In detail,

      one would say it can rarely fail to be a disappointing piece of

      shabbiness, to a stranger from any of those places. There is

      nothing shabbier than Drury-lane, in Rome itself. The meanness of

      Regent-street, set against the great line of Boulevards in Paris,

      is as striking as the abortive ugliness of Trafalgar-square, set

      against the gallant beauty of the Place de la Concorde. London is

      shabby by daylight, and shabbier by gaslight. No Englishman knows

      what gaslight is, until he sees the Rue de Rivoli and the Palais

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      Dickens, Charles - The Uncommercial Traveller

      Royal after dark.

      The mass of London people are shabby. The absence of distinctive

      dress has, no doubt, something to do with it. The porters of the

      Vintners' Company, the draymen, and the butchers, are about the

      only people who wear distinctive dresses; and even these do not

      wear them on holidays. We have nothing which for cheapness,

      cleanliness, convenience, or picturesqueness, can compare with the

      belted blouse. As to our women; - next Easter or Whitsuntide, look

      at the bonnets at the British Museum or the National Gallery, and

      think of the pretty white French cap, the Spanish mantilla, or the

      Genoese mezzero.

      Probably there are not more second-hand clothes sold in London than

      in Paris, and yet the mass of the London population have a secondhand

      look which is not to be detected on the mass of the Parisian

      population. I think this is mainly because a Parisian workman does

      not in the least trouble himself about what is worn by a Parisian

      idler, but dresses in the way of his own class, and for his own

      comfort. In London, on the contrary, the fashions descend; and you

      neve
    r fully know how inconvenient or ridiculous a fashion is, until

      you see it in its last descent. It was but the other day, on a

      race-course, that I observed four people in a barouche deriving

      great entertainment from the contemplation of four people on foot.

      The four people on foot were two young men and two young women; the

      four people in the barouche were two young men and two young women.

      The four young women were dressed in exactly the same style; the

      four young men were dressed in exactly the same style. Yet the two

      couples on wheels were as much amused by the two couples on foot,

      as if they were quite unconscious of having themselves set those

      fashions, or of being at that very moment engaged in the display of

      them.

      Is it only in the matter of clothes that fashion descends here in

      London - and consequently in England - and thence shabbiness

      arises? Let us think a little, and be just. The 'Black Country'

      round about Birmingham, is a very black country; but is it quite as

      black as it has been lately painted? An appalling accident

      happened at the People's Park near Birmingham, this last July, when

      it was crowded with people from the Black Country - an appalling

      accident consequent on a shamefully dangerous exhibition. Did the

      shamefully dangerous exhibition originate in the moral blackness of

      the Black Country, and in the Black People's peculiar love of the

      excitement attendant on great personal hazard, which they looked on

      at, but in which they did not participate? Light is much wanted in

      the Black Country. O we are all agreed on that. But, we must not

      quite forget the crowds of gentlefolks who set the shamefully

      dangerous fashion, either. We must not quite forget the

      enterprising Directors of an Institution vaunting mighty

      educational pretences, who made the low sensation as strong as they

      possibly could make it, by hanging the Blondin rope as high as they

      possibly could hang it. All this must not be eclipsed in the

      Blackness of the Black Country. The reserved seats high up by the

      rope, the cleared space below it, so that no one should be smashed

      but the performer, the pretence of slipping and falling off, the

      baskets for the feet and the sack for the head, the photographs

      everywhere, and the virtuous indignation nowhere - all this must

      not be wholly swallowed up in the blackness of the jet-black

      country.

      Whatsoever fashion is set in England, is certain to descend. This

      is a text for a perpetual sermon on care in setting fashions. When

      you find a fashion low down, look back for the time (it will never

      be far off) when it was the fashion high up. This is the text for

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      Dickens, Charles - The Uncommercial Traveller

      a perpetual sermon on social justice. From imitations of Ethiopian

      Serenaders, to imitations of Prince's coats and waistcoats, you

      will find the original model in St. James's Parish. When the

      Serenaders become tiresome, trace them beyond the Black Country;

      when the coats and waistcoats become insupportable, refer them to

      their source in the Upper Toady Regions.

      Gentlemen's clubs were once maintained for purposes of savage party

      warfare; working men's clubs of the same day assumed the same

      character. Gentlemen's clubs became places of quiet inoffensive

      recreation; working men's clubs began to follow suit. If working

      men have seemed rather slow to appreciate advantages of combination

      which have saved the pockets of gentlemen, and enhanced their

      comforts, it is because working men could scarcely, for want of

      capital, originate such combinations without help; and because help

      has not been separable from that great impertinence, Patronage.

      The instinctive revolt of his spirit against patronage, is a

      quality much to be respected in the English working man. It is the

      base of the base of his best qualities. Nor is it surprising that

      he should be unduly suspicious of patronage, and sometimes

      resentful of it even where it is not, seeing what a flood of washy

      talk has been let loose on his devoted head, or with what

      complacent condescension the same devoted head has been smoothed

      and patted. It is a proof to me of his self-control that he never

      strikes out pugilistically, right and left, when addressed as one

      of 'My friends,' or 'My assembled friends;' that he does not become

      inappeasable, and run amuck like a Malay, whenever he sees a biped

      in broadcloth getting on a platform to talk to him; that any

      pretence of improving his mind, does not instantly drive him out of

      his mind, and cause him to toss his obliging patron like a mad

      bull.

      For, how often have I heard the unfortunate working man lectured,

      as if he were a little charity-child, humid as to his nasal

      development, strictly literal as to his Catechism, and called by

      Providence to walk all his days in a station in life represented on

      festive occasions by a mug of warm milk-and-water and a bun! What

      popguns of jokes have these ears tingled to hear let off at him,

      what asinine sentiments, what impotent conclusions, what spellingbook

      moralities, what adaptations of the orator's insufferable

      tediousness to the assumed level of his understanding! If his

      sledge-hammers, his spades and pick-axes, his saws and chisels, his

      paint-pots and brushes, his forges, furnaces, and engines, the

      horses that he drove at his work, and the machines that drove him

      at his work, were all toys in one little paper box, and he the baby

      who played with them, he could not have been discoursed to, more

      impertinently and absurdly than I have heard him discoursed to

      times innumerable. Consequently, not being a fool or a fawner, he

      has come to acknowledge his patronage by virtually saying: 'Let me

      alone. If you understand me no better than THAT, sir and madam,

      let me alone. You mean very well, I dare say, but I don't like it,

      and I won't come here again to have any more of it.'

      Whatever is done for the comfort and advancement of the working man

      must be so far done by himself as that it is maintained by himself.

      And there must be in it no touch of condescension, no shadow of

      patronage. In the great working districts, this truth is studied

      and understood. When the American civil war rendered it necessary,

      first in Glasgow, and afterwards in Manchester, that the working

      people should be shown how to avail themselves of the advantages

      derivable from system, and from the combination of numbers, in the

      purchase and the cooking of their food, this truth was above all

      things borne in mind. The quick consequence was, that suspicion

      and reluctance were vanquished, and that the effort resulted in an

      Page 158

      Dickens, Charles - The Uncommercial Traveller

      astonishing and a complete success.

      Such thoughts passed through my mind on a July morning of this

      summer, as I walked towards Commercial Street (not Uncommercial

      Street), Whitechapel. The Glasgow and Manchester system had been

      lately set a-going there, by certain gentlemen who felt an inter
    est

      in its diffusion, and I had been attracted by the following handbill

      printed on rose-coloured paper:

      SELF-SUPPORTING

      COOKING DEPOT

      FOR THE WORKING CLASSES

      Commercial-street, Whitechapel,

      Where Accommodation is provided for Dining comfortably

      300 Persons at a time.

      Open from 7 A.M. till 7 P.M.

      PRICES.

      All Articles of the BEST QUALITY.

      Cup of Tea or Coffee One Penny

      Bread and Butter One Penny

      Bread and Cheese One Penny

      Slice of bread One half-penny or

      One Penny

      Boiled Egg One Penny

      Ginger Beer One Penny

      The above Articles always ready.

      Besides the above may be had, from 12 to 3 o'clock,

      Bowl of Scotch Broth One Penny

      Bowl of Soup One Penny

      Plate of Potatoes One Penny

      Plate of Minced Beef Twopence

      Plate of Cold Beef Twopence

      Plate of Cold Ham Twopence

      Plate of Plum Pudding or Rice One Penny

      As the Economy of Cooking depends greatly upon the simplicity of

      the arrangements with which a great number of persons can be served

      at one time, the Upper Room of this Establishment will be

      especially set apart for a

      PUBLIC DINNER EVERY DAY

      From 12 till 3 o'clock,

      CONSISTING OF THE FOLLOWING DISHES,

      Bowl of Broth, or Soup,

      Plate of Cold Beef or Ham,

      Plate of Potatoes,

      Plum Pudding, or Rice.

      FIXED CHARGE 4.5D.

      THE DAILY PAPERS PROVIDED.

      Page 159

      Dickens, Charles - The Uncommercial Traveller

      N.B. - This Establishment is conducted on the strictest business

      principles, with the full intention of making it self-supporting,

      so that every one may frequent it with a feeling of perfect

      independence.

      The assistance of all frequenting the Depot is confidently expected

      in checking anything interfering with the comfort, quiet, and

      regularity of the establishment.

      Please do not destroy this Hand Bill, but hand it to some other

      person whom it may interest.

      The Self-Supporting Cooking Depot (not a very good name, and one

      would rather give it an English one) had hired a newly-built

      warehouse that it found to let; therefore it was not established in

      premises specially designed for the purpose. But, at a small cost

      they were exceedingly well adapted to the purpose: being light,

     


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