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    The Uncommercial Traveller

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      got back to my cool darkened room in the hotel, and was lying on a

      sofa there, before I began to reason with myself.

      Of course, I knew perfectly well that the large dark creature was

      stone dead, and that I should no more come upon him out of the

      place where I had seen him dead, than I should come upon the

      cathedral of Notre-Dame in an entirely new situation. What

      troubled me was the picture of the creature; and that had so

      curiously and strongly painted itself upon my brain, that I could

      not get rid of it until it was worn out.

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      Dickens, Charles - The Uncommercial Traveller

      I noticed the peculiarities of this possession, while it was a real

      discomfort to me. That very day, at dinner, some morsel on my

      plate looked like a piece of him, and I was glad to get up and go

      out. Later in the evening, I was walking along the Rue St. Honore,

      when I saw a bill at a public room there, announcing small-sword

      exercise, broad-sword exercise, wrestling, and other such feats. I

      went in, and some of the sword-play being very skilful, remained.

      A specimen of our own national sport, The British Boaxe, was

      announced to be given at the close of the evening. In an evil

      hour, I determined to wait for this Boaxe, as became a Briton. It

      was a clumsy specimen (executed by two English grooms out of

      place), but one of the combatants, receiving a straight righthander

      with the glove between his eyes, did exactly what the large

      dark creature in the Morgue had seemed going to do - and finished

      me for that night.

      There was rather a sickly smell (not at all an unusual fragrance in

      Paris) in the little ante-room of my apartment at the hotel. The

      large dark creature in the Morgue was by no direct experience

      associated with my sense of smell, because, when I came to the

      knowledge of him, he lay behind a wall of thick plate-glass as good

      as a wall of steel or marble for that matter. Yet the whiff of the

      room never failed to reproduce him. What was more curious, was the

      capriciousness with which his portrait seemed to light itself up in

      my mind, elsewhere. I might be walking in the Palais Royal, lazily

      enjoying the shop windows, and might be regaling myself with one of

      the ready-made clothes shops that are set out there. My eyes,

      wandering over impossible-waisted dressing-gowns and luminous

      waistcoats, would fall upon the master, or the shopman, or even the

      very dummy at the door, and would suggest to me, 'Something like

      him!' - and instantly I was sickened again.

      This would happen at the theatre, in the same manner. Often it

      would happen in the street, when I certainly was not looking for

      the likeness, and when probably there was no likeness there. It

      was not because the creature was dead that I was so haunted,

      because I know that I might have been (and I know it because I have

      been) equally attended by the image of a living aversion. This

      lasted about a week. The picture did not fade by degrees, in the

      sense that it became a whit less forcible and distinct, but in the

      sense that it obtruded itself less and less frequently. The

      experience may be worth considering by some who have the care of

      children. It would be difficult to overstate the intensity and

      accuracy of an intelligent child's observation. At that

      impressible time of life, it must sometimes produce a fixed

      impression. If the fixed impression be of an object terrible to

      the child, it will be (for want of reasoning upon) inseparable from

      great fear. Force the child at such a time, be Spartan with it,

      send it into the dark against its will, leave it in a lonely

      bedroom against its will, and you had better murder it.

      On a bright morning I rattled away from Paris, in the German

      chariot, and left the large dark creature behind me for good. I

      ought to confess, though, that I had been drawn back to the Morgue,

      after he was put underground, to look at his clothes, and that I

      found them frightfully like him - particularly his boots. However,

      I rattled away for Switzerland, looking forward and not backward,

      and so we parted company.

      Welcome again, the long, long spell of France, with the queer

      country inns, full of vases of flowers and clocks, in the dull

      little town, and with the little population not at all dull on the

      little Boulevard in the evening, under the little trees! Welcome

      Monsieur the Cure, walking alone in the early morning a short way

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      Dickens, Charles - The Uncommercial Traveller

      out of the town, reading that eternal Breviary of yours, which

      surely might be almost read, without book, by this time! Welcome

      Monsieur the Cure, later in the day, jolting through the highway

      dust (as if you had already ascended to the cloudy region), in a

      very big-headed cabriolet, with the dried mud of a dozen winters on

      it. Welcome again Monsieur the Cure, as we exchange salutations;

      you, straightening your back to look at the German chariot, while

      picking in your little village garden a vegetable or two for the

      day's soup: I, looking out of the German chariot window in that

      delicious traveller's trance which knows no cares, no yesterdays,

      no to-morrows, nothing but the passing objects and the passing

      scents and sounds! And so I came, in due course of delight, to

      Strasbourg, where I passed a wet Sunday evening at a window, while

      an idle trifle of a vaudeville was played for me at the opposite

      house.

      How such a large house came to have only three people living in it,

      was its own affair. There were at least a score of windows in its

      high roof alone; how many in its grotesque front, I soon gave up

      counting. The owner was a shopkeeper, by name Straudenheim; by

      trade - I couldn't make out what by trade, for he had forborne to

      write that up, and his shop was shut.

      At first, as I looked at Straudenheim's, through the steadily

      falling rain, I set him up in business in the goose-liver line.

      But, inspection of Straudenheim, who became visible at a window on

      the second floor, convinced me that there was something more

      precious than liver in the case. He wore a black velvet skull-cap,

      and looked usurious and rich. A large-lipped, pear-nosed old man,

      with white hair, and keen eyes, though near-sighted. He was

      writing at a desk, was Straudenheim, and ever and again left off

      writing, put his pen in his mouth, and went through actions with

      his right hand, like a man steadying piles of cash. Five-franc

      pieces, Straudenheim, or golden Napoleons? A jeweller,

      Straudenheim, a dealer in money, a diamond merchant, or what?

      Below Straudenheim, at a window on the first floor, sat his

      housekeeper - far from young, but of a comely presence, suggestive

      of a well-matured foot and ankle. She was cheerily dressed, had a

      fan in her hand, and wore large gold earrings and a large gold

      cross. She would have been out holiday-making (as I settled it)

      but for the pestilent rain. Strasbourg had given up holiday-making

      for that once, as a ba
    d job, because the rain was jerking in gushes

      out of the old roof-spouts, and running in a brook down the middle

      of the street. The housekeeper, her arms folded on her bosom and

      her fan tapping her chin, was bright and smiling at her open

      window, but otherwise Straudenheim's house front was very dreary.

      The housekeeper's was the only open window in it; Straudenheim kept

      himself close, though it was a sultry evening when air is pleasant,

      and though the rain had brought into the town that vague refreshing

      smell of grass which rain does bring in the summer-time.

      The dim appearance of a man at Straudenheim's shoulder, inspired me

      with a misgiving that somebody had come to murder that flourishing

      merchant for the wealth with which I had handsomely endowed him:

      the rather, as it was an excited man, lean and long of figure, and

      evidently stealthy of foot. But, he conferred with Straudenheim

      instead of doing him a mortal injury, and then they both softly

      opened the other window of that room - which was immediately over

      the housekeeper's - and tried to see her by looking down. And my

      opinion of Straudenheim was much lowered when I saw that eminent

      citizen spit out of window, clearly with the hope of spitting on

      the housekeeper.

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      Dickens, Charles - The Uncommercial Traveller

      The unconscious housekeeper fanned herself, tossed her head, and

      laughed. Though unconscious of Straudenheim, she was conscious of

      somebody else - of me? - there was nobody else.

      After leaning so far out of the window, that I confidently expected

      to see their heels tilt up, Straudenheim and the lean man drew

      their heads in and shut the window. Presently, the house door

      secretly opened, and they slowly and spitefully crept forth into

      the pouring rain. They were coming over to me (I thought) to

      demand satisfaction for my looking at the housekeeper, when they

      plunged into a recess in the architecture under my window and

      dragged out the puniest of little soldiers, begirt with the most

      innocent of little swords. The tall glazed head-dress of this

      warrior, Straudenheim instantly knocked off, and out of it fell two

      sugar-sticks, and three or four large lumps of sugar.

      The warrior made no effort to recover his property or to pick up

      his shako, but looked with an expression of attention at

      Straudenheim when he kicked him five times, and also at the lean

      man when HE kicked him five times, and again at Straudenheim when

      he tore the breast of his (the warrior's) little coat open, and

      shook all his ten fingers in his face, as if they were ten

      thousand. When these outrages had been committed, Straudenheim and

      his man went into the house again and barred the door. A wonderful

      circumstance was, that the housekeeper who saw it all (and who

      could have taken six such warriors to her buxom bosom at once),

      only fanned herself and laughed as she had laughed before, and

      seemed to have no opinion about it, one way or other.

      But, the chief effect of the drama was the remarkable vengeance

      taken by the little warrior. Left alone in the rain, he picked up

      his shako; put it on, all wet and dirty as it was; retired into a

      court, of which Straudenheim's house formed the corner; wheeled

      about; and bringing his two forefingers close to the top of his

      nose, rubbed them over one another, cross-wise, in derision,

      defiance, and contempt of Straudenheim. Although Straudenheim

      could not possibly be supposed to be conscious of this strange

      proceeding, it so inflated and comforted the little warrior's soul,

      that twice he went away, and twice came back into the court to

      repeat it, as though it must goad his enemy to madness. Not only

      that, but he afterwards came back with two other small warriors,

      and they all three did it together. Not only that - as I live to

      tell the tale! - but just as it was falling quite dark, the three

      came back, bringing with them a huge bearded Sapper, whom they

      moved, by recital of the original wrong, to go through the same

      performance, with the same complete absence of all possible

      knowledge of it on the part of Straudenheim. And then they all

      went away, arm in arm, singing.

      I went away too, in the German chariot at sunrise, and rattled on,

      day after day, like one in a sweet dream; with so many clear little

      bells on the harness of the horses, that the nursery rhyme about

      Banbury Cross and the venerable lady who rode in state there, was

      always in my ears. And now I came to the land of wooden houses,

      innocent cakes, thin butter soup, and spotless little inn bedrooms

      with a family likeness to Dairies. And now the Swiss marksmen were

      for ever rifle-shooting at marks across gorges, so exceedingly near

      my ear, that I felt like a new Gesler in a Canton of Tells, and

      went in highly-deserved danger of my tyrannical life. The prizes

      at these shootings, were watches, smart handkerchiefs, hats,

      spoons, and (above all) tea-trays; and at these contests I came

      upon a more than usually accomplished and amiable countryman of my

      own, who had shot himself deaf in whole years of competition, and

      had won so many tea-trays that he went about the country with his

      Page 45

      Dickens, Charles - The Uncommercial Traveller

      carriage full of them, like a glorified Cheap-Jack.

      In the mountain-country into which I had now travelled, a yoke of

      oxen were sometimes hooked on before the post-horses, and I went

      lumbering up, up, up, through mist and rain, with the roar of

      falling water for change of music. Of a sudden, mist and rain

      would clear away, and I would come down into picturesque little

      towns with gleaming spires and odd towers; and would stroll afoot

      into market-places in steep winding streets, where a hundred women

      in bodices, sold eggs and honey, butter and fruit, and suckled

      their children as they sat by their clean baskets, and had such

      enormous goitres (or glandular swellings in the throat) that it

      became a science to know where the nurse ended and the child began.

      About this time, I deserted my German chariot for the back of a

      mule (in colour and consistency so very like a dusty old hair trunk

      I once had at school, that I half expected to see my initials in

      brass-headed nails on his backbone), and went up a thousand rugged

      ways, and looked down at a thousand woods of fir and pine, and

      would on the whole have preferred my mule's keeping a little nearer

      to the inside, and not usually travelling with a hoof or two over

      the precipice - though much consoled by explanation that this was

      to be attributed to his great sagacity, by reason of his carrying

      broad loads of wood at other times, and not being clear but that I

      myself belonged to that station of life, and required as much room

      as they. He brought me safely, in his own wise way, among the

      passes of the Alps, and here I enjoyed a dozen climates a day;

      being now (like Don Quixote on the back of the wooden horse) in the

      region of wind, now in the region of fire, now in the region of

     
    unmelting ice and snow. Here, I passed over trembling domes of

      ice, beneath which the cataract was roaring; and here was received

      under arches of icicles, of unspeakable beauty; and here the sweet

      air was so bracing and so light, that at halting-times I rolled in

      the snow when I saw my mule do it, thinking that he must know best.

      At this part of the journey we would come, at mid-day, into half an

      hour's thaw: when the rough mountain inn would be found on an

      island of deep mud in a sea of snow, while the baiting strings of

      mules, and the carts full of casks and bales, which had been in an

      Arctic condition a mile off, would steam again. By such ways and

      means, I would come to the cluster of chalets where I had to turn

      out of the track to see the waterfall; and then, uttering a howl

      like a young giant, on espying a traveller - in other words,

      something to eat - coming up the steep, the idiot lying on the

      wood-pile who sunned himself and nursed his goitre, would rouse the

      woman-guide within the hut, who would stream out hastily, throwing

      her child over one of her shoulders and her goitre over the other,

      as she came along. I slept at religious houses, and bleak refuges

      of many kinds, on this journey, and by the stove at night heard

      stories of travellers who had perished within call, in wreaths and

      drifts of snow. One night the stove within, and the cold outside,

      awakened childish associations long forgotten, and I dreamed I was

      in Russia - the identical serf out of a picture-book I had, before

      I could read it for myself - and that I was going to be knouted by

      a noble personage in a fur cap, boots, and earrings, who, I think,

      must have come out of some melodrama.

      Commend me to the beautiful waters among these mountains! Though I

      was not of their mind: they, being inveterately bent on getting

      down into the level country, and I ardently desiring to linger

      where I was. What desperate leaps they took, what dark abysses

      they plunged into, what rocks they wore away, what echoes they

      invoked! In one part where I went, they were pressed into the

      service of carrying wood down, to be burnt next winter, as costly

      fuel, in Italy. But, their fierce savage nature was not to be

      easily constrained, and they fought with every limb of the wood;

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      Dickens, Charles - The Uncommercial Traveller

     


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