final ascent of, 110-15
landing on, 22-23
naming of, 57
NGS Yukon Expedition and, 71, 73
plane trip to, 18-22
recent flight over, 181-94
second ascent of, 163
summit of, 112-13
takeoff attempts from, 33-34, 35-36
trash discarded on, 92, 95
Washburn’s first look at, 71
Wood’s attempt on, 74
Lucania expedition:
assessment of, 176-79
Basin Camp of, 81-97
Camp II of, 88-89
Donjek Glacier crossed by, 136-43
Donjek River crossed by, 125-46
equipment of, 82-87
expedition portraits on, 113-14, 118
final ascent of, 110-15
on flight to Lucania, 18-22
food calculations of, 104-5
hunting on, 134, 147, 149
Ice-Block Camp of, 100, 102
inventory taken on, 79, 104
at Kluane Lake, 156-58
Kluane Lake attained by, 154-55
lowland regained by, 125-27
McCarthy route rejected by, 78, 103, 140, 188
Mount Steele descended by, 119-21
Mount Steele summitted by, 117-18
in move to Basin Camp, 87-93
in move to Shangri-La, 93-101
parting of, 158-59
preparations for, 13-18, 32, 61, 77, 88, 185
press accounts of, 159, 160-62
reputation of, 162-63
Ridge Camp of, 95-99
routes reconnoitered by, 79-82
Shangri-La camp of, 102-8, 116-17, 189
singing on, 107-8, 116
sleeping bag shared on, 2, 96, 105-6
on Walsh Glacier landing, 22-37
Walsh Glacier takeoff attempts and, 33-34, 35-36
wranglers met by, 151-55
McCarthy, Alaska, 18-19, 76-77, 103, 140, 183, 184-85
MacCarthy, Albert, 61
McKinley, Mount, 5-8, 54, 62, 168, 190
first ascent of, 163
naming of, 57-58
Sourdough Expedition on, 59-60
U.S. Army Alaskan Test Expedition on, 166
Washburn’s ascent of, 169-70
Mallory, George Leigh, 43, 46, 47, 171
Marcus Baker, Mount, 165, 183
Matanuska Glacier, 183
Matterhorn, 44
first ascent of, 42, 53
Maverick (barnstormer), 14
Mont Blanc, 44, 46, 49
first ascent of, 53
Monte Rosa, 44
Moore, Terris, 52-53, 165, 166, 167
Morisette, Janice, see Reeve, Janice Morisette “Tillie”
Mount Desert Island, Maine, 41
Mount McKinley: The Conquest of Denali (Roberts and Washburn), 8
“Mudville,” 18
Museum of Fine Arts (Boston), 170
Museum of Science (Boston), 5, 7, 167-68, 172
mushrooms, 134-35
Nanda Devi, 164
Nanga Parbat, 174
National Geographic, 69
National Geographic Society, 54, 159, 171
National Geographic Society Yukon Expedition, 69-74
New England Museum of Natural History, 167-68 see also Museum of Science
New York Sun, 57
Night Flight (Saint-Exupéry), 15
Nilsson, Einar, 167
Noel, John, 46-47, 171
Noonan, Fred, 172
Nusbaum, Jesse, 45
Oberlin, Gail, see Bates, Gail Oberlin
Orizaba, 54
Peace Corps, 173
Pennsylvania, University of, 68, 160
Petzoldt, Paul, 164
Phillips Exeter Academy, 39, 43, 167, 173, 177
Poincenot, Jacques, 143
Polk, Barbara, see Washburn, Babrara Polk
Putnam, David, 45
Putnam, George P., 38, 45, 46, 171-72
Randall, Bob, 71, 188
Ravanel, Antoine, 44
Reeve, Bob:
background of, 14-17
family of, 26-27
on flight to Mount Lucania, 18-22, 186-87, 188
humor of, 15-16
Kateel River landing of, 26
Lucania avoided by, 82-83
Lucania preparations and, 61, 77, 185
Morisette met by, 26-27
Mount Marcus Baker run of, 165, 183
in press accounts, 162
temper of, 25
Valdez Glacier landing of, 29-30
Walsh Glacier landing of, 22-37
Walsh Glacier takeoff attempts of, 33-34, 35-36
Washburn’s letter to, 17-18
Washburn’s mother reassured by, 114-15
Washburn’s return and, 159-60
Reeve, Janice Morisette “Tillie,” 26-27, 29, 31
Reeve, Richard, 27
Ridge Camp, 95-99
Rongbuk Glacier, 47
Roper, Steve, 163
Russell, Israel, 54
Russell Col, 55
Saint Elias, Mount, 53-55, 58, 61, 62
Saint-Exupéry, Antoine de, 15
Sanford, Mount, 165-66
Schoening, Pete, 9, 175
Scott, Robert Falcon, 104
Scrambles Amongst the Alps (Whymper), 42
Sella, Vittorio, 5, 56
Shandrick, Michael, 55
Shangri-La, 102-8, 116-17, 189
cache at, 108-9
move to, 93-101
sheep, Dall, 125, 152, 186
Shipton, Eric, 68, 173
Spring Creek, 135-36
squirrels, red, 134, 147
Steck, Allen, 163
Steele, Mount, 74, 103, 104, 124, 139, 188, 192
ascent of, 117-18
descent of, 119-21
Steele Glacier, see Wolf Creek Glacier
Stephen, Sir Leslie, 53
Stuck, Hudson, 58, 60
Swift, Jonathan, 194
Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 171
taiga, 148
Tale of a Tub, A (Swift), 194
Taylor, Andy, 70, 71, 138, 185, 186
Tenderini, Mirella, 55
Tenzing, Norgay, 174
Thomas, Lowell, 47
Tilman, H. W. “Bill,” 68
Trails and Peaks of the Presidential Range (Washburn), 44
Ulugh Muztagh, 9, 173
Underhill, Robert, 64
Valdez, Alaska, 13-18, 159-60
Valdez Glacier, 29-30
Vancouver, George, 58
Vancouver, Mount, 94
Walker Spur, 50
Walsh Glacier, 17, 32, 75, 190, 192
flight to, 18-22
landing at, 22-23
takeoff attempts from, 33-34, 35-36
Washburn, Barbara Polk, 167-68
on recent flight over Lucania, 182-94
Washburn, Henry Bradford, Jr.:
Aiguille du Midi ascent of, 47-49
author’s McKinley trip and, 5-8
aviation as interest of, 46, 171-72, 184
background of, 3-4, 44-54
Bates met by, 38-39
Bates’s friendship with, 105-6, 163, 166, 177
in book project collaboration, 10-12
books published by, 8, 38-39, 44, 45-46, 47
camera and film cached by, 133, 154
Carpé’s rivalry with, 52-53
character of, 11, 106, 177
climbing abandoned by, 9
expedition portraits of, 113-14, 118
HMC style influenced by, 62-63, 66-68
honors of, 172
hunting by, 134, 147, 149
inventory taken by, 79, 104
later expeditions of, 169-70
marriage of, 168-69, 177
Mount Grillon expedition of, 65-66
at New England Museum of Natural History, 167-68
on NGS Yukon Expedition, 69-74
North American mountaineering focus of, 169-70
photography exhibitions of, 170-71
photography of, 46, 56, 71, 74-75, 81-82, 107, 113-14, 118, 124, 127, 162-63, 170, 172, 188
physical appearance of, 1-2
physical condition of, 104-5, 150
on recent flight over Lucania, 182-94
on Reeve, 16
Reeve contacted by, 17-18
on return to Valdez, 159-60
singing of, 107-8, 116
sleeping bag shared by, 2, 96, 105-6
technical skills of, 64-65
trip preparations of, 13-18
on U.S. Army Alaskan Test Expedition, 166-67 see also Lucania expedition
Washburn, Henry Bradford, Sr., 44
Washburn, Mrs., 114-15
Washburn, Sherwood, 44-45, 47-48, 49, 50
Washington, Mount, 40, 63
Whymper, Edward, 42, 53
Wickersham Wall, 5-8
Wolf Creek, 129-36, 153
Wolf Creek Glacier, 119, 122, 127-28, 138, 139, 189
Wood, Harrison, 128-29
Wood, Walter, 73, 74, 103, 129, 153, 161, 166, 176
cache of, 119, 122-23, 124, 190
horse trail of, 127, 128, 132
willow wands of, 118
Wrangell Mountain Air, 183-84
Wrangell Mountains, 16, 17, 18-19
Wrangell-Saint Elias National Park and Preserve, 186
Youth’s Companion, 45
Valdez, Alaska, as it looked in 1937. The mud flats from which Bob Reeve took off are in the left background, beyond the town.
Bush pilot Bob Reeve in front of his Fairchild 51 airplane.
Bob Bates (left) and Brad Washburn.
Washburn with his fifty-three-pound Fairchild camera, with which he took the aerial photos that unlocked the secrets of Mount Lucania.
Reeve in front of his plane, sunk in the slush on the Walsh Glacier, June 18, 1937.
Mount Lucania from the southeast, with Washburn and Bates’s route and principal camps indicated.
Washburn and Bates in their single sleeping bag before they figured out how to sleep in it head to foot.
Looking toward Mount Lucania from the northeast, at the Shangri-La camp at 14,000 feet, July 7, 1937.
Bob Bates and Brad Washburn atop Mount Lucania on July 9.
Mounts Lucania (left) and Steele, seen from the east. The route of Washburn and Bates’s descent from Steele is the curving ridge in the right center.
Gene Jacquot and his family, Burwash Landing.
The only map that Bates and Washburn had for their journey. On the 1935 Yukon expedition, the map had partially burned in a camp fire. Washburn’s pencil sketches of previously unknown glaciers fill in some of the blanks.
Brad Washburn, Alaska, July 2001, planning the flight to retrace the route of the 1937 expedition. (Photo by David Roberts)