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Index
Adelphia Club, 70
African American cuisine, 145–146
alcohol, 46, 186
Allen, William W., 23
Almond Puddings, 222
American Cookery Books, 1742–1860 (Lowenstein), 127
American Cookery (Simmons), 38, 171
American cuisine, 38, 58, 132–133, 179
American Frugal Housewife, The, 136
American Home Cooking (Jamison), 205
American Home Economics Association, 182
American Philosophical Society, 105, 124
Annals of Philadelphia and Pennsylvania (Watson), 68
apees, 172–173
Apple Pudding, 222–223
apprenticeships, 30–31
Art of Cookery, The (Glasse), 107
Arthur, Timothy Shay, 39
artichokes, 3, 84, 85, 88, 92, 104, 117, 154, 217
Asian cuisine, 144
Astolfi, Lawrence, 79
Audot, Louis-Eustache, 138
Augustin, Peter, 64–65
Bailey, Abby, 129
Bailey, Chester, 76
Baker, Ann, 7
Baker, William, 7
Baking in America (Patent), 205
baking powder, 166–167
Bank of Philadelphia, 43–44
Barley Water, 232
Barrington Rusk, 214
Barton, Benjamin Smith, 124
Barué, Suplice, 137, 138
Beard, James, 202, 204–205
Beard on Food (Beard), 206
Beck, Simone, 202
Beecher, Catharine, 180
Belden, Louise Conway, 62
Bennett, Robert, 58
Bertholle, Louisette, 202
Beshero-Bondar, Elisa E., 127–128
Bibliographie Gastronomique (Vicaire), 138
Bienville, Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de, 97
Bingham, William, 76
Birch, Thomas, 14, 44
Bitting, Katherine, 138
Bittman, Mark, 206
Blot, Pierre, 139–140, 177–179, 183, 202
Blue Anchor, 67
boardinghouses, 68–69
Bonaparte, Joseph, 23
Bossee, Peter, 77
Boston Cooking School, 189–196, 198
Boston Cooking-School Cookbook, The (Farmer), 189, 192, 196–197
Boston School Kitchen Text-Book (Lincoln), 193
Bouvier, Eustache, 23
Bouvier, John, 24
Bouvier, Michael, 23
Bouvier, Sarah Pearson, 8, 23–24
Bradford, William, 71
brandy, 38
breads
Barrington Rusk, 214
Goodfellow's Buns, 214
Potato Biscuit, 214
Quick Waffles, 217
serving of, 121
Spanish Buns, 215–216
Waffles, 216, 217
Breedlove, Nancy, 163
brick ovens, 112
Briggs, Richard, 108
Brillat-Savarin, Antoine, 63
Brown, Helen Evans, 204
Budd's Long Row, 67
Burd, Edward Shippen, 24
butcher, 47–48, 54, 85
butter, 3, 89–90, 96
cakes
Cheese Cake, 230
Indian Pound Cake, 230
Mrs. Goodfellow's Queen Cake, 230–231
Queen Cake, 231
Queen cakes, 5, 37, 161, 169–170, 171, 207–208, 231
candy. see confectioners
Carey, Henry C., 126, 142
Carolina Housewife, The (Rutledge), 133
Carter, Susannah, 38
cast-iron cookstoves, 111–112
centerpieces, 120
Chauveau, A. J., 60
cheesecakes, 5–6, 230
chess pie, 163
chicken fricassee, 88–89, 117–118, 153–154, 218
Child, Lydia Maria, 136
Citron Puddings, 223
City Tavern, 43, 44, 71–72
cleaning, 2, 85
Coane, Elizabeth Goodfellow, 23
Coane, Robert (husband), 8–9, 25–26, 98
Coane, Robert (son), 8, 20, 21–23, 26, 41–42, 173, 176
Cocoanut Puddings, 224
coffee-houses, 66
Coleman, Debbie, 162
Colonial Receipt Book, 27, 104, 113, 167, 172
Colony in Schuylkill, The, 69
Complete Confectioner, The (Parkinson), 79
Conestoga wagons, 50–51
confectioners/confectionery, 56–58, 59
conversation, instructions regarding, 155–156
Cook Book (Coleman), 162
cookbooks
anonymous, 34–35
format of recipes in, 111, 137
Goodfellow's recipes in, 98, 100–101, 104, 113
Kidder and, 94–96
Leslie and, 33–34, 122
Raffald and, 33
as textbooks, 106–108
Widdifield and, 103
see also individual titles
Cookery as It Should Be, 34–35, 165
cookies
Cookies (recipe), 220
Gingerbread, 220
Gingerbread, Spiced, 221
history of, 170–172
Jumbles, 221
Spice Nuts, 221–222
cooking school, Goodfellow's
description of, 84–85
first lesson at, 85–93
serving meal at, 152–155
students of, 94, 100, 101–102, 108–109
cooking schools, overview of, 96–97, 102–103, 182–184
see also individual schools
Coolidge, Calvin, 164
Cope, Thomas P., 53
Cordon Bleu cooking school, 202
cornmeal, 38, 142–143
Corson, Juliet, 183–184
Cox, Gideon, 134
Cox, James, 17, 18
Coxe, David W., 24
Crag, Christopher, 109–110, 113, 114–115
crème meringue, 162
Crowen, Mrs. T. J., 204
crumb-cloth, 119
Cuisinière de la Campagne et de la Ville, La (Audot), 138
Culinary Institute of America, 201
Cundith, Kathy, 10
cup cakes, 169
curries, 145
Custard, Lemon, 224
see also puddings
Dearborn, Carrie, 194–195
desserts
Floating Island, 232
Swiss Cream, 232
see also cakes; Custard, Lemon; puddings
Directions for Cookery (Leslie), 37, 74, 133, 135–136, 141, 161
Dock Street, description of, 16–17, 42
docks, description of, 12–13
Domestic Cookery (Lea), 27, 100
Domestic French Cookery (Leslie), 65, 137, 139, 141
Domestic Manners of the Americans (Trollope), 99–100
domestic science, 180–182, 190
Dunne, Patrick, 7, 136
education, Quakers and, 29–30
eggs, 36–37, 90, 152, 169
embroidery lessons, 105
Emlen, Ellen Markoe, 75–76, 101
Emlen Cresson family, 101
Engle, Sarah. see Patterson, Sarah Engle
entertaining, 61–62
Evans, Oliver, 124
Every Lady's Book (Crowen), 204
Experienced English Housekeeper, The (Raffald), 33, 95–96
Famous Old Receipts, 104, 112–113
Fannie Farmer Cookbook, The (Farmer), 198
Fannie's Last Supper (Kimball), 199
Farmer, Fannie Merritt, 170, 189, 191, 195–200, 204
farmers' markets, 48, 205
Festive Tradition, The (Belden), 62
fireplace, 2, 87, 88, 111, 209–210
fireworks, 77
Fish House Club, 70
Fish Market, 52
Flint, James, 54
Floating Island, 231
Food and Cookery for the Sick and Convalescent (Farmer), 198
Francatelli, Charles Elme, 139
Franklin, Benjamin, 124
Franklin House Hotel, 73, 74
Free Training School for Women, 183
French Cook, The (Ude), 139
French cuisine, 63–65, 137–142, 179
frozen desserts, 62
Frugal Housewife, The, 38
fruit, sugared, 99
see also individual fruits
Fussell, Betty, 205
Garrett, Martha J., 62
Gastronomic Bibliography (Bitting), 138
Gazley, Martha, 96–97
Gingerbread, 220
Gingerbread, Spiced, 221
Girard, Stephen, 23, 24, 25
Glasse, Hannah, 8, 106–107, 144, 145
Gleim, Betty, 149
Goodfellow, Elizabeth
background of, 7–9
cooking education of, 28, 32
description of, 1–2, 105–106, 109–110
fellow merchants and, 17–18
literary mentions of, 39–40
at market, 45–48
morning preparations of, 1–7
nighttime and, 207–210
signature of, 13
success of, 81
Goodfellow, William, 10–11, 19, 26, 208, 210
Goodfellow's Buns, 214
Goodfellow's Jumbles, 221
Goodfellow's Spanish Bunns/Buns, 215
Greedy Book, The (Schloesser), 73
Greenough, Mrs. Ebenezer, 167
Griswold, Rufus Wilmot, 102
Guest, George, 67
Hale, Sarah Josepha, 148, 162
Hand-book of Practical Cookery (Blot), 140
Harper, H. W., 73
Haven, Alice B. (Neal), 125, 127
Head, Joseph, 76–77, 114
hearth. see fireplace
Henrion, Sebastion, 59–60
Henry, Alexander, 23
Hess, John, 127, 133
Hess, Karen, 107, 127, 133
High (Market) Street, 12, 14, 50
High Street Market, 47
hitching posts, 45
home economics, 179–182, 190
Hooper, Sarah E., 190
hotels, 72
House Book, The (Leslie), 136
Howell, Margaret Emlen, 100, 109
Howell, Nancy, 109
ice cream, 56, 62, 77–79
iceboxes, 55–56
Indian cuisine, 144–145
Indian Meal Book, The (Leslie), 142–143
Indian Pound Cake, 38–39, 230
ingredients
importance of quality, 49, 85, 111, 134, 204, 205–206
imported, 12–13, 49, 96, 143
leavening, 35–36
at market, 45–48
native, 38
preparation of, 2–3
Quakers and, 26–27
spoilage and, 54–56
Israel, Susan, 101–102, 113
Issac Newton's, 78
Italian cuisine, 79
James Beard Cooking School, 202
James Beard's American Cookery (Beard), 204
Jamison, Bill and Cheryl Alters, 205
Janson, Charles, 55
Jefferson, Thomas, 49, 64, 107, 124
Jersey Market, 45, 46, 52
Joy of Cooking, The (Rombauer), 204
jumbles, 4, 5, 170–172, 221
Kennedy, Diana, 205–206
Kennedy, Mrs. William Henry, 28
ketchup, 144
Kidder, Edward, 94–95
Kimball, Christopher, 190, 199
Kisses, 5, 152, 155, 161
Kitchener, William, 144
Krimmel, John Lewis, 65, 82
Ladies' New Book of Cookery, The (Hale), 162
Lady's Receipt-Book, The (Leslie), 36, 141, 162
land-grant universities, 180–181
Langolis, Madame, 97
Lea, Elizabeth Ellicott, 27, 100
leavenings, 35–36, 133, 165–169
Leibell, Abigail Coane, 8
Lemon Custard, 224
lemon meringue pie, 158–159, 163–164
Lemon Pudding, 225
lemon puddings, 4, 84, 85, 89, 98, 116, 152, 157–158, 225
lemons
as flavoring, 37–38, 158–159
import of, 163
Lemon Custard, 224
Lemon Pudding, 225
Mrs. Goodfellow's Lemon Pudding, 225
Two Lemon Puddings, 225
Leslie, Ann, 125, 126
Leslie, Charles, 123, 126
Leslie, Eliza
African American cuisine and, 145–146
American cuisine and, 132–133
on apees, 172
audience of, 134–136
background of, 33–34, 123–126
Beard and, 204
on behavior, 146–147
boardinghouse and, 69
books by, 93–94
clarity of, 136–137
on confections, 96
cookbooks and, 106, 126–129, 131–132, 133–136
fiction of, 128
French cuisine and, 65, 137–139, 141–142
on Goodfellow, 110–111, 130
imported ingredients and, 143–144
Indian cuisine and, 145
on leavenings, 35–36, 165–166
measurements and, 213
meringue and, 159–162
note taking and, 112, 121–122
recipe clarity and, 196
on refrigeration, 56
reputation of, 148–149
terrapins and, 74–75
travels of, 129
on yeast, 168
Leslie, Lydia Baker, 69, 123, 125
Leslie, Martha, 126
Leslie, Robert, 123–125
Leslie, Thomas Jefferson, 126, 128–129
Levick, Elizabeth W., 104–106
Lincoln, Abraham, 135–136, 163
Lincoln, Mary Johnson Bailey, 191–193, 194, 197, 199
Lincoln, Mary Todd, 135–136
liquor, 186
Little House Cookbook, The (Walker), 135
living/working arrangements, 17
London Coffee House, 71
Longone, Jan, 108, 138, 143
Lowenstein, Eleanor, 127
Lucas,
Dione, 202
Mackie, Charles L., 7, 136
Madeira wine, 49
mangoes, preserved, 219
Mansion House Hotel, 76–77, 114
Margarette, Mary, 23
markets
comparisons of, 53–54
description of, 45–48, 51–54
development of, 49–50
Goodfellow at, 41–42
preparations for, 50–51
proximity to, 12
rules for, 50–51
Markoe, Mrs. John, 70
Marshall, Elizabeth, 96
Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 181–182
Mastering the Art of French Cooking (Child), 202
Masters of American Cookery (Fussell), 205
matchmaking, 85, 115, 156–157
Maynard, Ida, 194
Mease, James, 124
measurements, guide for, 213
meats
chicken, 88–89, 117–118, 153–154, 218
Mince Meat, 226
ragouts and, 141
stewed veal, 218–219
terrapins, 73–75, 219
White Fricassee Chickens, 218
see also butcher
Memories of Philadelphia in the Nineteenth Century (Garrett), 62
Merchant's Coffee House and Place of Exchange, 72
meringue, 152, 158–162
Michaux, André, 15
Millers, John William, 58
Mince Meat, 226
mise en place, 87
Miss Farmer's School of Cookery, 198
Miss Leslie's Behavior Book (Leslie), 146–147
Miss Leslie's Complete Cookery (Leslie), 134
Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book (Leslie), 111, 130, 131
Miss Parloa's Kitchen Companion (Parloa), 191
Miss Parloa's New Cook Book and Marketing Guide (Parloa), 191
Modern Cook, The (Francatelli), 139
Moffit, Robert, 22
Monroe, James, 172
Moore, Thomas, 55
Moravian Seminary, 97
Morrill Act, 180
Mrs. Goodfellow's Cookery as It Should Be, 35, 106, 165
Mrs. Goodfellow's Lemon Pudding, 225
Mrs. Goodfellow's Queen Cake, 230–231
Mrs. Lincoln's Boston Cook Book (Lincoln), 191, 197
Mrs. Putnam's Receipt Book, 162
napkins, 119–120
Neal, Bill, 163
New Art of Cookery (Briggs), 108
New Century Club, 184–185
New Century Cooking School, 184–187
New Haven Restaurant Institute, 201
New Receipts for Cooking (Leslie), 143, 146
New System of Domestic Cookery, A (Rundell), 107–108, 169–170
New York Cooking Academy, 140, 177–179
New York Cooking School, 183
Newport, Mary, 97
Nineteenth-Century American Fiction Writers (Beshero-Bondar), 127–128
omelette soufflé, 141–142
Onions, Ragou of, 140, 218