Kremezi, Aglaia. The Foods of Greece. New York: Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 1993.
Lambert, Paula. The Cheese Lover’s Companion & Guide. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2000.
Lang, George. The Cuisine of Hungary. New York: Atheneum, 1971.
Maier-Bruck, Franz. Das Grosse Sacher Kochbuch: Die österreichische Küche. Munich: Schuler Verlagsgesellschaft, 1975.
———. Vom Essen auf dem Lande: Das grosse Buch der österreichischen Bauernküche und Hausmannskost. Vienna: Kremayr und Scheriau, 1981.
Ozan, Özcan. The Sultan’s Kitchen: A Turkish Cookbook. Boston: Periplus Editions, 1998.
Roden, Claudia. A Book of Middle Eastern Food. New York: Random House/Vintage Books, 1974.
Rose, Peter G., trans. and ed. The Sensible Cook (De Verstandige Kock): Dutch Foodways in the Old and the New World. Syracuse, N.Y.: Syracuse University Press, 1989.
Saberi, Helen. Afghan Food and Cookery (Noshe Djan). New York: Hippocrene Books, 2000.
Saint-Ange, E. La Cuisine de Madame Saint-Ange: recettes et méthodes de la bonne cuisine française. Paris: Librairie Larousse, 1982.
Scharfenberg, Horst. Die deutsche Küche. Bern, Switzerland: Hallwag AG Bern, 1980.
Shaida, Margaret. The Legendary Cuisine of Persia. New York: Interlink Books, 2002.
Sheraton, Mimi. From My Mother’s Kitchen: Recipes and Reminiscences, rev. edition. New York: HarperCollins, 1991.
Shroff, Veema, and Vanmala Desai. 100 Easy-to-Make Gujarati Dishes, 7th edition. New Delhi: Vikas Publishing/Tarang Paperbacks, 1990.
Strybel, Robert, and Maria Strybel. Polish Heritage Cookery. New York: Hippocrene Books, 1993.
Uvezian, Sonia. The Book of Yogurt: An International Collection of Recipes. Hopewell, N.J.: Ecco Press, 1999.
———. Recipes and Remembrances: From an Eastern Mediterranean Kitchen, 2nd edition. Northbrook, Ill.: Siamanto Press, 2001.
von Bremzen, Anya, and John Welchman. Please to the Table: The Russian Cookbook. New York: Workman Publishing, 1990.
Wolfert, Paula. The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean. New York: HarperCollins, 1994.
———. Mediterranean Grains and Greens. New York: HarperCollins, 1998.
INTERNET SOURCES
A great deal of information is now available online along with even greater amounts of misinformation, politicking, and rumormongering. Some sites that may be of interest to readers of this book:
http://www.aphis.usda.gov/vs/ceah/ncahs/nahms/dairy/ Web site of the USDA animal health monitoring and surveillance division.
http://classes.ansci.uiuc.edu/ansc438/ Online review and syllabus of Professor Walter L. Hurley’s class in lactation biology, Department of Animal Sciences, University of Illinois at Urbana.
http://www.foodsci.uoguelph.ca/dairyedu/home.html Wide-ranging source on dairy science and technology, maintained by the dairy science department of the University of Guelph, Ontario.
http://webexhibits.org/butter/ Extremely diverse and entertaining (if not always factually reliable) site dedicated to butter and its historical/culinary/cultural fortunes.
INDEX
(Page references in italic refer to illustrations. Page references in boldface refer to recipes.)
abomasum, 2.1, 9.1
acid coagulation, 4.1, 5.1
acidophilus milk
acidosis, ruminal
Acton, Eliza
Africa, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 6.1, 6.2, 8.1
agglutinins, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3
Agriculture Department, U.S. (USDA), 2.1, 2.2, 8.1
ahimsa
Ají de Leche (Venezuelan Milk-Chile Infusion), 5.1
alcoholic fermentation, 7.1, 7.2, 7.3, 9.1
Alderney cows, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3
Alphabet for Gourmets, An (Fisher)
American Heart Association, 2.1, 2.2
American Woman’s Home, The (Beecher and Stowe)
antibiotics
appetizers and first courses:
Blueberry Soup, Cold, 7.1
Herring with Sour Cream Sauce, 7.1
see also dips and spreads
Apple-Onion Cream Soup, 5.1
aseptic packaging
asses, 1.1, 1.2
aurochsen, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3
Austria, Austrian cuisine
Buttermilk-Caraway Soup, 7.1
Chicken Paprikás, 7.1
Liptauer cheese, 9.1
Ayran (Turkish-Style Yogurt Drink), 6.1
Ayrshire cows
Babcock test
bacteria, 2.1, 8.1
dairying practices and
health claims for yogurt and, 6.1, 6.2
pasteurization and, 2.1, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 6.1
bacteria, lactic-acid, prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 2.1, 2.2, 4.1
cultured milk or cream and
cultured or ripened butter and
fresh cheeses and, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3
mesophilic, 1.1, 6.1, 7.1, 9.1
thermophilic, 1.1, 6.1, 7.1, 9.1
yogurt and, 1.1, 1.2, 6.1, 6.2
see also starter bacteria
bacteria, psychrophilic
Balkans, Balkan cuisines, 1.1, 6.1, 9.1
Milk Toast with Feta, 5.1
Tarator (Cold Yogurt Soup with Cucumbers and Walnuts), 6.1
banana(s):
Fried, with Crema, 7.1
Raita, 6.1
Barley Pilaf with Whey, 9.1
Batidos (Latin American Milkshakes), 5.1, 5.2
Batra, Neelam
béarnaise sauce
béchamel grasse
Béchamel Maigre, 5.1
Beecher, Catharine
Beef Stroganoff, 7.1
Beeton, Isabella, 5.1, 9.1
Beet Soup, Cold, Polish (Chłodnik Litewski), 7.1
Belgian Stampers or taatjespap, 7.1
Berry Cookbook, The (Fried)
Beurre Blanc/Beurre Rouge, 8.1
Beurre Manié, 8.1
beurre meunière
Beurre Noir/Beurre Noisette (“Black Butter”/“Brown Butter”), 8.1
beverages:
Ayran or Doogh (Turkish- or Persian-Style Yogurt Drink), 6.1
Batidos (Latin American Milkshakes), 5.1, 5.2
buttermilk as
Chocolate Malted, 5.1
Hoppelpoppel: Eggnog with a Difference, 5.1
Hot Chocolate, 5.1
Iced Coffee, Thai-Style, 5.1
Milk Punch, 5.1
yogurt-based, about
see also lassi
blancmange
Blueberry Soup, Cold, 7.1
Bonne Cuisine de Madame Saint-Ange, La, 5.1, 5.2
Booke of Cookerie, A (Murrell)
Book of New New England Cookery, The (J. and E. Jones), 7.1
Borden, Gail
“Borek Meets Kugel”, 9.1
Boston Cooking–School Cookbook, The (Farmer), 5.1, 8.1
Bovine and Buffalo Belt, 1.1, 1.2, 6.1
bovines
bovine somatotropin (BST), bovine growth hormone (BGH), 2.1, 3.1
breeding dairy cows, 2.1, 2.2, 3.1, 3.2
breeding schedules, 1.1, 1.2, 4.1
Bremzen, Anya von
brined (pickled) cheeses, prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4
brine-pickled vegetables and fruits
British cuisine, see Great Britain, English cuisine
Brown, Helen Evans
Brown Swiss cows
Bryan, Lettice
buffaloes, see water buffaloes and water buffaloes’ milk
Bulgaria, Bulgarian cuisine, 1.1, 9.1
health claims for yogurt in
Tarator (Cold Yogurt Soup with Cucumbers and Walnuts), 6.1
“Bulgarian buttermilk”
Bulgur Pilaf with Whey, 9.1
butter, prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 4.1, 5.1, 8.1, 8.2
Beurre Blanc/Beurre Rouge, 8.1
Beurre Manié, 8.1
Beurre Noir/Beurre Noisette (“Black Butter”/“B
rown Butter”), 8.1
buying and handling
clarified, see clarified butter
color of
cultured
Flavored or Compound, 8.1
flavor nuances in
Home-Churned: Ripened-Cream Type, 8.1
Home-Churned: Sweet-Cream Type, 8.1
milkfat in, 8.1, 8.2
in pastry-making, 8.1, 8.2
perishability of
salted vs. unsalted
smells and tastes of other foods absorbed by, 8.1, 8.2
transition between solid and melted state of, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3, 8.4, 8.5
whipped
yogurt as starting point of
butter-and-egg custards
“Buttered Eggs” (Skillet-Custard Eggs), 8.1
Hollandaise Sauce, 8.1, 8.2
Lemon Curd, 8.1
Lime Curd, 8.1
buttermilk (cultured), 4.1, 4.2, 7.1, 7.2
“Bulgarian”
as culinary resource
as drink, 7.1, 7.2
history of
Homemade, 7.1
Indian vs. American, 6.1, 7.1
buttermilk (true), 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 4.1, 7.1, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3, 8.4, 8.5
Fresh, 8.1
Buttermilk Dessert, Dutch (Hangop), 7.1
Buttermilk Pie, Southern, 7.1
Buttermilk Potatoes, 7.1
Buttermilk Salad Dressing, 7.1
Buttermilk “Salad,” Mennonite, 7.1
buttermilk soups
Blueberry, Cold, 7.1
Caraway, 7.1
Cherry, Cold, 7.1
Cold Savory (Michael Field’s “Chłodnık”), 7.1
North Indian Thick (Kadhi or Karhi), 7.1
South Indian (Moru Kozhambu), 7.1
Butter Tarts, Canadian, 8.1
Cacık, 6.1
Cajeta Mexicana (Mexican Dulce de Leche), 5.1
Cake, Yogurt-Semolina, with Lemon Syrup (Revani), 6.1
calcium, 2.1, 4.1
camels and camels’ milk, 1.1, 1.2, 7.1, 9.1
Canadian Butter Tarts, 8.1
canned milk, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, 5.4
Dulce de Leche with, 5.1
caprines
see also goats and goats’ milk; sheep and sheep’s milk
Carasso, Isaac
cardboard milk containers
Carême, Marie-Antoine
casein, 2.1, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 6.1, 6.2, 7.1, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4, 9.5, 9.6
centrifuging, 2.1, 2.2, 3.1, 3.2, 4.1, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3
certification campaigns
Cervelle de Canut, 9.1
Champ, Irish (Mashed Potatoes with Milk and Greens), 5.1
cheeses, 2.1, 3.1
aged or ripened, prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 2.1
cheeses (fresh), prf.1, 1.1, 9.1
brined (pickled), prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4
curd formation and, 1.1, 9.1
getting organized for making
Goats’-Milk, 9.1
names for
origins and history of, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 9.1, 9.2
White: Kindergarten Version, 9.1
White, with Cultures, 9.1
White, with Cultures and Rennet, 9.1
see also cream cheese; feta; specific recipes listed on this page
Cherry Soup, Cold, 7.1
chèvre, 9.1, 9.2
chhenna, 1.1, 4.1, 5.1, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3
Homemade, 5.1
Saag Panir or Palak Panir, 5.1
Vegetarian Malai Kofta, 5.1
chicken:
Paprikás, or Paprikahuhn, 7.1
Salad à la Tandoor, 6.1
Chile-Milk Infusion, Venezuelan (Ají de Leche), 5.1
China, Chinese cuisine, 5.1, 6.1, 6.2, 7.1
“Fried Milk”, 5.1
“Chłodnik,” Michael Field’s (Cold Savory Buttermilk Soup), 7.1
Chłodnik Litewski (Polish Cold Beet Soup), 7.1
chocolate:
Hot, 5.1
Malted, 5.1
Pudding, 5.1
cholesterol
chowders:
Clam, New Englandish, 5.1
Corn, Spiced, 5.1
Chutney, Walnut-Yogurt, 6.1
Çilbir (Turkish Poached Eggs in Yogurt Sauce), 6.1
clabber or clabbered milk, 2.1, 9.1
Claiborne, Craig
Clam Chowder, New Englandish, 5.1
clarified butter, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3, 8.4
Ethiopian Spiced (Nit’r Kibeh), 8.1, 8.2
European-Style, 8.1
Indian (Ghee), 1.1, 1.2, 8.1, 8.2
clotted cream, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 5.1
Homemade, 5.1
coeur à la crème
Coffee, Iced, Thai-Style, 5.1
colostrum
concentrate (feed)
condensed milk, 5.1, 5.2
Dulce de Leche with, 5.1
condiments:
Banana Raita, 6.1
Butters, Flavored or Compound, 8.1
Cacık and Relatives, 6.1
Clotted Cream, 5.1
Cucumber Pachadi, 6.1
Cucumber Raita, 6.1
Walnut-Yogurt Chutney, 6.1
see also dips and spreads; sauces
Continental Flavor, The (Hazelton)
Cooking à la Ritz (Diat)
Cooper, James Fenimore
corn:
Chowder, Spiced, 5.1
“Kees” (Gujarati Stovetop Corn Pudding), 5.1
cottage cheese, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3
cows and cows’ milk, prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 4.1, 5.1, 8.1, 9.1
antibiotic treatment of
breeding of, 2.1, 2.2, 3.1, 3.2
domestication of
feeding of, 2.1, 2.2, 3.1, 3.2
in Indian subcontinent, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5
lactation in, 1.1, 4.1
in Northeastern Cow Belt, 1.1, 1.2
in Northwestern Cow Belt, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3
zebu-type, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3
see also milk (fresh unsoured)
crabmeat, in Chinese “Fried Milk”, 5.1
cream (fresh), prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 2.1, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3
beating into butter
buying, 5.1, 5.2
Clotted, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 5.1, 5.2
historical ups and downs of
label designations for
separating from milk, 4.1, 4.2
ultrapasteurized, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3
see also cream soups; whipped cream; specific recipes listed on this page
cream, cultured, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3
see also sour cream
cream cheese, 1.1, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4
Creamy, 9.1
Light, 9.1
as Liptauer base, 9.1
Scallion Dip, 9.1
Creamed Spinach, Madame Saint-Ange (Épinards à la Crème), 5.1
creamlines, cream layers, 2.1, 2.2, 4.1, 5.1
cream soups
Apple-Onion, 5.1
Clam Chowder, New Englandish, 5.1
Corn Chowder, Spiced, 5.1
Tomato, 5.1
Vichyssoise, 5.1
crema, 7.1, 7.2
Fried Bananas with, 7.1
Crème Anglaise (Stirred Custard), 5.1
crème fraîche, 7.1, 7.2
as cold sauce and dip
Homemade Sour Cream, 7.1
Cremets d’Angers, 5.1
cucumber(s):
Cacık and Relatives, 6.1
Cold Yogurt Soup with Walnuts and (Tarator), 6.1
Pachadi, 6.1
Radish Sour Cream Sauce, 7.1
Raita, 6.1
Cuisine of Hungary, The (Lang)
cultured butter
cultured milk and cream
as culinary resource
exotic kinds of
history of, 7.1, 7.2
survey of
see also buttermilk (cultured); sour cream; sour milk; yogurt; specific recipes listed on this page
curd cheese
“Curd Rice”, 6.1
curds, formation of, 1.1, 4.1, 5.1, 9.1
Curnonsky
custard:
-Based Vanilla Ice Cream, 5.1
Southern Buttermilk Pie, 7.1
Stirred (Crème Anglaise), 5.1
see also butter-and-egg custards
dairy chemistry, home experiments in
Dairy Industry in America, The (Selitzer)
Dannon
Davaasambuu, Ganmaa
David, Elizabeth, 5.1, 5.2, 8.1
Desai, Vanmala
desserts:
Bananas, Fried, with Crema, 7.1
Blueberry Soup, Cold, 7.1
Buttermilk Pie, Southern, 7.1
Butter Tarts, Canadian, 8.1
Cajeta Mexicana (Mexican Dulce de Leche), 5.1
Chocolate Pudding, 5.1
Crème Anglaise (Stirred Custard), 5.1
Cremets d’Angers, 5.1
Dulce de Leche with Canned Condensed Milk, 5.1
Hangop (Dutch Buttermilk Dessert), 7.1
Junket, Non-Nursery, 9.1
Lemon Curd, 8.1
Lemon Sponge Pudding, 5.1
Lemon Tart, 8.1
Lime Curd, 8.1
Panna Cotta and Relatives, 5.1
Paskha (Russian Easter Dessert), 9.1
Revani (Yogurt-Semolina Cake with Lemon Syrup), 6.1
Rice Pudding, 5.1
Shrikhand (Saffron-Scented Yogurt Dessert), 6.1
sour cream or crème fraîche as sauce for
Vanilla Ice Cream, Custard-Based, 5.1
Vanilla Ice Cream, Philadelphia-Style, 5.1
deutsche Küche, Die (Scharfenberg)
De Voe, Thomas F.
Diamond, Jared
Diat, Louis, 5.1, 5.2
dips and spreads:
Cacık and Relatives, 6.1
Cervelle de Canut, 9.1
Cream Cheese–Scallion Dip, 9.1
Liptauer Cheese, 9.1
Smoked Whitefish Salad, 7.1
Tyrokafteri or Htipiti (Whipped Feta-Cheese Spread), 9.1
Walnut-Yogurt Chutney, 6.1
Yogurt “Cheese” and “Cheese” Balls, 6.1
Diverse Sources Belt, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 6.1, 6.2, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4, 9.5
distinctive flavors, preference for
earliest milk-eating experiments in, 1.1, 1.2
milch animals in
origins of herding and milking in
Dodd, George
domestication of animals
Doogh (Persian-Style Yogurt Drink), 6.1
dressings
Buttermilk Salad, 7.1
Spicy-Milky Peanut Sauce, 5.1
dried milk
dulce de leche
with Canned Condensed Milk, 5.1
Mexican (Cajeta Mexicana), 5.1
Durham or milking Shorthorn cows
Dutch cuisine, See Netherlands, Dutch cuisine
Easter Dessert, Russian (Paskha), 9.1
Eggnog with a Difference (Hoppelpoppel), 5.1