No Reverse Gear

The following story is dedicated to the people of Kenya, who are warm, hospitable and welcoming… they are perfect ambassadors for the beautiful country they habitat. May we never forget our past struggles, lives lost and the senseless violence that has marred our history and continue to live in harmony. I am proud to be Kenyan “Najivunia kuwa Mkenya”

  © 2012, Geram Gal

  Cover design based on artwork provided by Geram Gal

  NO REVERSE GEAR!

  It is 15th September 2008 and I am at the Malindi Airport checking in for my 9 am flight to Masai Mara. The plane is a 12 seater Aeronav charter used by Fly 540 ( a local Kenyan airline). Flying in small planes is not one of my fortes but I garner up all my courage, as we prepare for take off. I share the small space in the plane with 3 English couples and a German gentleman. We are informed by the lady pilot that the flight will take 2 ½ hours and if lucky we might just see the tip of Mt. Kilimanjaro.

  The other passengers next to me share their excitement and eagerness of visiting Masai Mara for the first time. For them it is a dream come true at last, after seeing so many pictures, reading so many stories and hearing all about the wonders of Mara.

  Masai Mara is located on the south western side of Kenya..very close to the Tanzanian border, it measures up to 1,510 square kilometers in area and extends into Tanzania, where it is known as the Serengetti. A tourist’s trip to Kenya is incomplete without a visit to Mara, be it by air or by road. There are many lodges and camps catering for both the low budget tourist and one who is interested in luxury and not worried about spending hundreds of dollars. During three months in a year – when the wildebeest cross from the Serengetti side onto the Kenyan side, Masai Mara is home to the 8th wonder of the world – the annual migration. It a spectacle many are privileged to witness and is indescribable to an unseen eye…

  Just over 2 ½ hours have passed and I can see the vast plains of the Mara below. I get a sudden rush of excitement as I am faced with the reality that the famous Masai Mara is below me. It was an emotional farewell, the last time I left Mara and now I can’t believe I am back.

  Our first stop is Kekerok Airstrip; the “international” airstrip is made up of a dark reddish brown gravel, cut out in the midst of the greenery that personifies Mara. Many of these local airstrips are named after the lodge/camp that owns it or maintains it. Two of our English couples alight upon landing. One of whom is relieved that she wont have to take off and land again. The next stop is mine.

  Back in the air again, we make a right turn and in a few minutes we are coming in to land. This airstrip is called Olkiombo. As I alight I am met by a tall, dark, powerfully built Masai man (the local tribe who originate from the Masia Mara), dressed in the traditional bright red attire commonly worn by Masai. He introduces himself as my guide and volunteers to carry my bag. He tells me to call him Masai..to which I oblige.

  Since my companion – Rian, on this trip to Mara is flying in from Nairobi ( the capital city of Kenya); I decide to stick around at the airstrip under a small circular “banda” ( the Kiswahili word for shack/small hut). In the middle of this banda is a table laden with Masai bracelets, necklaces, rings etc all made up of colourful beads. The banda itself is lined right round on the inner edge with a bench.

  The place we are booked to stay at is called Olare Safari Camp. It is situated about 15kms from the airstrip.

  Rians flight has been delayed. Instead of arriving in Mara at 12pm, they leave Jomo Kenyatta International Airport nearing 1pm. We expect them to land at the Olkiombo airstrip at around 2pm. As 2pm nears the driver – Simon, from Olare Safari Camp arrives with clients who are catching their flight out of Mara. Simon is of average stature and build, wearing khaki baseball cap and dressed in a khaki coloured shirt and trousers. I can see the camps insignia embroided on both his cap and shirt. He wears sand coloured safari boots and has the look of seasoned driver.

  Our ride during our stay in Masai Mara is a six seater, jungle green land cruiser, with a canvas roof, which is rolled up during game drives

  My Masai guide, feeling sorry for me, asks Simon to take me on a small game drive, whilst he waits for my companion to arrive. Just as we make our way out of the airstrip, we hear a plane approach. As luck would have it Rian has arrived. So, we head back to the airstrip. When I see the plane taxing in, I realize it is the same one that brought us from Malindi. The word air matatu (the name given to the local form of transportation, similar to taxis) comes to my head! I should have stayed in the plane, met my friend in Nairobi and come right back to Mara with her!!

  Rian and myself have not met for more than year, with her completing her nursing degree in Malaysia and only recently returning home a few weeks ago. She had never been to Mara before and this was more of a treat for her from me and a welcome back home. I am extremely excited to see her and cant wait to spend the next 3 days catching up on lost time as well as share the charm of Mara with her.

  Once pleasantries are over with and we are all seated in the dark green land cruiser, our ride begins to our camp. It is past 2pm and both our stomachs are rumbling (especially mine!). En route to the camp we come across our first game – Thompson and Grant gazzles, a few zebras and Topi (also known as Blue Jeans – because their lower legs are covered in a bluish colour..very similar to the colour of blue jeans, or the Masai Cow - because its coat is brightish red, like that of a Masais attire). In the distance I can see the huge and never ending Oloololo (meaning forever and ever in Kimasai – the Masai language) Escarpment or the Siria Escarpment. This escarpment stretches from the far ends of Mara right into the Serenghetti in Tanzania.

  We arrive at the camp 20 minutes later. The reception area is down a winding path, made up of a simple tented structure with large red coloured cushion covered chairs. We are welcomed with glass of juice and the manger – Mr. Kamau, invites us to sit down and fill out the relevant forms before we are checked in and shown to our “room”, which for 2 nights will be a tent! We are told that a late lunch will be served to us once we freshen up and make our way back to the dining “room”. We will then be taken on a late afternoon game drive. Rian gets very excited at this thought.

  Our tent is quite a distance from the dining room and reception. We pass 9 tents before shown to ours. It consists of 2 beds, alongside each other, a small wardrobe area, shower and toilet. In the middle of the shower and toilet lies a mirror and wash basin. A small writing table and chair sit near the entrance of the tent on the inside. Our “balcony” consists of two deck chairs and one small coffee table. There is a plug close to the table in the tent, which means that our electrical needs will be catered for. Our tent steward informs us that the generator (Masai Mara is yet to be served by Kenya Power and Lighting Company) runs from 6pm to 10pm and again from 5am to 6:30am.

  The beds are covered with thick red checked coloured blankets with hints of purple.. they look very similar to the Masai attire. Our “door” is a zip and “windows” are the flaps of the dark jungle green tent.

  As we make our way for lunch, rain clouds close in. If it does rain, the game drive ( called such because the wildlife are termed as game and it being a drive to go catch a glimpse of them) will be called off, since the roads will be impassable and the animals, hidden in shaded areas out of sight. Whilst being served our starter, the first drops of rain start falling and we are forced to move under the shaded area of the dining room.

  The rain that pours down after we move is heavy. It becomes so dark; I can’t see the food we are eating. And the thunder storm that accompanies the rain is terrifyingly loud. I can just picture the animals shuddering in the bush. The flat plains of Mara only echo, louder the sound of thunder. With all that rain, our game drive plans are postponed till the next morning. We are told to r
eport to the dining area in time for breakfast the next day, so as